Kity k5 spindle moulder and router bits

[PeterL]

I have an old Kity k5 and have herb using the table saw with sliding sleigh which is really effective. I have the spindle moulder attachment with the euro block and some bits, I’m used to using router bits with bearings is it possible to fit normal router bits? Any advice would be appreciated thanks. I’d this is posted in the wrong place then please advise.

 

[Lons]

The short answer is no.
You have to use the block and cutters or French head cutters in the spindle slot which are perfectly useable though frowned upon as if not fitted properly they can be dangerous.

Do you mean a wood sliding table that slides in the saw table grooves as if it's a fitted sliding table, unless home made it probably isn't a K5 you have as a sliding table wasn't an option on that combination. Post some photos and I'll tell you.

 

[PeterL]

The short answer is no.
You have to use the block and cutters or French head cutters in the spindle slot which are perfectly useable though frowned upon as if not fitted properly they can be dangerous.

Do you mean a wood sliding table that slides in the saw table grooves as if it's a fitted sliding table, unless home made it probably isn't a K5 you have as a sliding table wasn't an option on that combination. Post some photos and I'll tell you.

It looks original and comes in the parts catalogue perhaps I’m not describing it well, luckily I have the spindle block and quite a few profiles, I’m just used to having the bearing on a router and struggle at the end of the cut

 

[Against_The_Grain]

It looks original and comes in the parts catalogue perhaps I’m not describing it well, luckily I have the spindle block and quite a few profiles, I’m just used to having the bearing on a router and struggle at the end of the cut

“Struggle at the end of the cut” in what way?

The spindle moulder is a very simple machine though if improperly used it can be one of the most dangerous in the workshop, you want to be very confident but not complacent in its use otherwise you may cause yourself an injury.

 

[Lons]

It's certainly a K5 from what I can see in the photos Peter but that sliding table is not original and as I said wasn't available, from what I can see it most likely cam off a larger Kity machine if indeed it is a Kity attachment. I have a couple of spare bits that came that way, left over from when we used to sell them..

If you don't have the original instructions, drop me a pm with your email address and I'll send you a pdf and other info.

I agree with the comments above re the spindle moulder btw, simple and easy with care, concentration and commonsense, you should have no issues with the end of the cut using the pressure guards and keeping the timber moving smoothly and tight against the fence, hands well out of the way or you'll lose some digits as well.

 

[PeterL]

Thanks guys, I just get a slight wobble when coming off the first fence at the end of the cut I’m using the spring guards, it has a sliding attachment for this too but it has a 90 degree fence which wasn’t suitable for the long lengths. I might just make a sacrificial fence.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Thanks guys, I just get a slight wobble when coming off the first fence at the end of the cut I’m using the spring guards, it has a sliding attachment for this too but it has a 90 degree fence which wasn’t suitable for the long lengths. I might just make a sacrificial fence.

That would be a good idea, by reducing the opening you're also reducing the amount of space a workpiece has to "drop-in" into the opening.

If you haven't already seen it, the video by Roy Sutton detailing the safe use of the machine is an excellent primer.

 

[Fireburst]

Some spindle moulders offer attachments that allow router bits, but the issue tends to be that most spindle moulders do not spin fast enough for the standard size of router bits (routers spin much faster than spindle moulders).

 

[PeterL]

I have a user manual but it’s quite basic and I’ve watched the video thanks very much I’ll make a fence each time it seems to be the way to go it produced a much better finish that my 1/4 inch router

 

[baldkev]

Thanks guys, I just get a slight wobble when coming off the first fence at the end of the cut I’m using the spring guards, it has a sliding attachment for this too but it has a 90 degree fence which wasn’t suitable for the long lengths. I might just make a sacrificial fence.

In that case you need to run a straight edge across your fences and make sure they are correctly aligned

 

[PeterL]

Thanks for all the advice I put a sacrificial fence there now and break through much more stable. Does anyone have this machine and can advise on the position of the spindle moulder belt, I’ve notice mine runs clockwise and does work better if I feed in from left to right, where as the diagram in the manual show counter clockwise and feeding right to left. I can’t seem to find anything on belts in the manual

 

[Lons]

It should run anticlockwise looking down on the cutter, if you look at cutters and blocks that's how they are set up to cut, running backwards won't work. You will be feeding work from right to left when facing the table.

Standing at the planer side of the K5, slide the flat belt on to the spindle moulder shaft pully and turn your hand upwards/clockwise to put a half twist into the belt the roll it on to the motor pulley. Easier done than to describe and you'll soon do it without thinking.

I'm a bit surprised btw about your comment re the instruction manual which I think is better than many current offerings It runs to over 50 pages with loads of info and diagrams, 3 languages not just broken English/Chiwanese and is easy to understand though granted |I don't think it tells you to twist the belt.

 

[PeterL]

Ah ha! Thanks very much! I see I twisted the belt the other way… also the belt runs truer as before it fell off towards the Motor side during start up occasionally. I can now put all my guides on the correct way and probably have to turn my cutter block the right way up

Yes I find the manual a bit of a generation thing as I have old and new Haynes manuals the old ones will assume a degree of prior knowledge/problem solving where as the new ones are totally step by step.