Kity 439 Advice

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

I recently purchased a s/h Kity 439 p/t . It came with a stand and apart from a very small amount of corrosion on the blade that was exposed, it was spotless. It had obviously had little use and even had the original price sticker on it! I was mindful that the 439 is discontinued and spares are few and far between, but I'd seen pretty decent reviews about it.

Everything appears fine - the motor is quiet, everything turns, moves and works as it should, and it cuts well (although the blades could do with a sharpen). Having said that, I'd like some advice on:

1 - I have noticed that when aligning the infeed and outfeed tables, there is a very small area on the outfeed table (very close to the rhs of the cutter)that is out of true when a straight edge is on it. It's very small but enough to let the light under a straight edge.
Obviously the table should be completely flat so I was considering either taking it off and getting it machined at a metal shop or having a go myself using the same method as flattening a plane iron. (I'll try to get a pic posted)

2 - There is no extension on the outfeed side of the thicknesser, so in order to support the timber is there anything that can be rigged up to the p/t to use as a outfeed table? If not I can probably rig up something, but no sense in reinventing the wheel :wink:

The first point concerns me the most as that will be key to accurate planning, but I hope that I haven't wasted my money on this p/t. Any advice will be gratefully received.

Obi Wan ccasion5:

 

[MikeJhn]

I also have a 439 and find it does everything I want of it, before obsessing about the outfeed table, try a couple of runs across it to see if it actually causes a problem, mine is also not perfectly flat, but in real terms it does not cause a problem, holding the workpiece onto the infeed table until the piece is beyond the out of flat area and then holding the piece onto the outfeed table to complete the cut, once you have a flat face its the fence that has to be near perfect to get a right angle on the workpiece.

I find I don't need an outfeed table as the rollers inside the machine keep the workpiece in place well enough that a trip around the machine to support the workpiece once it emerges is not a problem.

Spares are available from Sheppach as they took over Kity some years ago and still produce an equivalent PT that uses interchangeable parts.

Not a popular way to set it up, but I have the blades set at the outfeed table height using a piece of glass held down on the outfeed table and the blades flush with it.

Mike

 

[Sideways]

Not a popular way to set it up, but I have the blades set at the outfeed table height using a piece of glass held down on the outfeed table and the blades flush with it.

Mike

Hah ! It's not just me then I use the same method for setting planer knives on my kity 636 (as the alloy tables mean that magnets won't stick to them) and on anything else I'm asked to help with. Double check with a straightedge afterwards ...

 

[MikeJhn]

Amazed how many people complain about snipe and don't set up this way?

Mike

 

[MickCheese]

I have the same planer, not sure mine is completely flat but it works a dream. I set my knives in-line with the outfeed table and don't get snipe.

As for support, I don't bother.

The fence on mine has a tendency to wander off square if not careful so keep checking.

Mick

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

Mike, Sideways and Mick, thanks for your advice and comments, they're gratefully received I've read about the glass method for setting the blades so I'll give that a go

Here's a pic showing the area of concern on the o/f table

Once I've cleaned and sharpened the blades, I'll give it a good test.

OWK ccasion5:

 

[Sideways]

It looks much newer than my 3636 and hardly a mark on the tables. It would be a shame to take off the anodising trying to get them flat
I would be tempted to sharpen or replace your blades, set it up and see if you can live with it for a while.
I would hope this doesn't make a difference, but I notice that the clamping lever that holds the outfeedtable down on the near side in your photo is missing.

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

TBH it's hardly had any use Sideways so it's pretty wear free I'll give it a go once sharpened and it may be fine.

Not sure what you mean by the clamp lever, unless you mean the up/down winding handle for the thicknesser? If so, I'd removed it to swing the guard out of the way. Here it is in place

OWK ccasion5:

 

[MikeJhn]

It looks much newer than my 3636 and hardly a mark on the tables. It would be a shame to take off the anodising trying to get them flat
I would be tempted to sharpen or replace your blades, set it up and see if you can live with it for a while.
I would hope this doesn't make a difference, but I notice that the clamping lever that holds the outfeedtable down on the near side in your photo is missing.

Sideways
The outfeed table on the 439 is fixed and doesn't have a clamp, only the infeed table moves down to adjust the planing depth.

OWK
The low area on the outfeed table should not effect the performance of the PT its basically outside the critical area.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

I notice the chip extract has not been modified to circular, the oval shape does cause its own problems and chips tend to get stuck in the area just in front of the outlet, I modified my own version with a 100mm piece of plastic pipe, but you need a decent chip extractor to make it work efficiently, I use a 2000M3/hr extractor which clears it without any problems.

Basically I cut out the oval section and used glass fibre to fix in a circular piece of pipe, see below.

Mike

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

Thanks again Mike. The area within the green line is a high, not low, albeit only slightly. Would that still be ok?

Regarding the chip extract, I'd read about the issues on this forum so will also modify mine to accept the 100mm hose/duct system I'm going to install

OWK ccasion5:

 

[MikeJhn]

Being high is not ideal, but as said previously just try it and see if it does cause a problem, if I am teaching you to suck eggs I apologies, but the way to use these things is to push down on the workpiece on the infeed table until the piece has gone past the blade, then push down on the workpiece on the outfeed table and allow the workpiece to progress towards you on the outfeed side, this should give you a flat surface to feed the workpiece along the fence to get the two face's at right angles to each other, assuming that the fence is already at 90degs to the bed, then turn through 90degs and keeping the flat 90deg face on the fence feed again across the blade, I am sure you get the picture.

Mike

 

[Sideways]

Thanks for the correction Mike.
Hope I didn't worry you by being thick OKW
On some other models of planer thicknesser, the outfeed table is hinged on one side and where your thickness adjuster handle plugs in there is a locking lever. I mistook the hole for a missing lever
The more photos I see the more it looks like a tidy machine...

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

Mike - Thanks again for your advice, and no, you are not teaching me to suck eggs! I'm very grateful for your help. I understand what you're saying about using the planer and I'll give it a go this weekend

Sideways - No problem, you didn't worry me - honest #-o It is a good machine so a few more pics

OWK ccasion5:

 

[MikeJhn]

One thing to be aware of is the serrated roller for the thickener infeed does get gummed up if you are using resinous timber and occasionally it will not feed correctly, you will need to lower the table and scrape out the resin from the flutes of the roller, I use a dental pick, but be careful when you do this as the blades are very close and can cause an injury, cut hands, don't ask, still have the scars.

Good luck and do let us know how you get on.

Mike

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

Thanks again Mike I will keep an eye on the infeed roller. Hope to have a some time this weekend to play and fettle so will let you know how it goes.

OWK ccasion5:

 

[delboy47]

I have the same P/T and have always have to faff about when setting blades. The glass method mentioned above seems like a good idea but when using this, is there still room to tighten up the blade retaining nuts. I assume you have the edge of the glass just on the tip of the blade? is that correct? Perhaps someone would be kind enough to elaborate for me.

Thanks.

 

[MikeJhn]

The piece of glass I use is not full width, in fact I think its about 75mm, wide enough to push the blade down, but not wide enough to cover the two end retaining nuts, once they are snugged up remove the glass and tighten the remaining nuts.

Doesn't have to be a piece of glass anything flat will do.

Mike

 

[delboy47]

Thanks Mike. I get it now. Will give this a go next time I change the blades.

Del

 

[johnbb99]

Thanks from another Kity 439 owner, for all the good ideas.
Mine has started having trouble feeding the wood through when thicknessing, sometimes. (4 INCH wide oak), .
I've taken a look to see if the in-feed roller was clogged up. It was, and having cleaned it, it seems ok.
I too have trouble with chips not clearing, but do not understand what has been said about the extraction port. Yes, it is oval, but you simply fit your hose over it and use a jubilee clamp to hold it on. Where is the problem? I think I must have missed the point .
In an attempt to improve flow, I've shortened the extraction path, using what seems like an ideal solution:- a 'Kwickfit extended bend adaptor' marked 'for use with 110 plastic pipe'. See pics. It has a generous rubber seal on the inside [connecting to the extractor] so grips the 100 mm spigot nicely [but allows for movement, as well].
I've previously used an Electra Beckum extractor rated at 1000 cu m / hr, which did not suck the planer clean, and am now using a Perform model with the same spec, and same problem. After putting a few feet of plank through, the bed is littered with chips.
Next move is to take a hacksaw to the grille in the inlet to the extractor, if I dare.
Hoping some you guys are still around here, and see this post.
John