Kity 419 mitre slots?

[jimmer]

looking at a model from 2003. 400 euros seems a not bad price.
does anyone have one and can anyone confirm the width of the mitre slots.
i'd very much like to have 'standard' 19mm slots.
thanks
jimmer

 

[marcros]

they are not "standard". I can't remember quite what they are (something like 9mm x 15mm, t shaped, with the t being about 19mm), but "standard" tend to be US spec. most saws that we (the uk) have access to don't have this "standard", Europe is likely to be the same.

I wouldn't worry that much about the slots- probably only aftermarket mitre gauges and bought tenoning jigs use them. you could remake the bar from aluminium on a gauge, and make a tenoning jig.

 

[jimmer]

thanks marcos, that's why i wrote 'standard'.

but yes, i decided i can live with them and went for it.

you got one then? like it? any tips?

 

[Eric The Viking]

I had one. It was pretty good (but it was an older version than yours).

They can be very accurate. Treat it to a nice new Freud blade - you'll be amazed how good that can be, but watch out as Freuds are narrower kerf than the stock Kity blade, so the riving knife might be too thick. Riving knives for the older TS200 (Axminster) will fit and are thin enough and cheap.

Be gentle with the tilt gearing: try not to scuff the cogs when altering the rise & fall: it's steel on glass reinforced plastic, and if you destroy the teeth, the complete handwheel is about 40 quid to replace (or so I believe - happy to be corrected if more expensive). You can probably set up the tilt clamp/lock so the assembly moves freely when it's released - you can then tilt the blade by hand (not using the gear quadrant), lock it off somewhere close, then do the final adjustment with only a small cog movement - will save a lot of wear.

There's a 90 degree adjustment stop inside the saw, which you can get at by removing the LEFT side plate (as you look at it normally). The two pairs of countersunk bolts either end of the blade allow you to loosen the trunnion so you can align it with the mitre slots - it's a fiddle, soif you have the design with separate nuts (two per end) underneath, make sure you have a spanner that will fit before loosening them off (10mm from memory).

Dust extraction is not good. "They're all like that , sir" as is the TS 200 and family. Lots of discussions on here as to how to "improve" it (not necessarily productive IMHO. Mine (third hand) simply had a hopper/chute underneath and a requirement to hoover it out every so often. Some people cut off the side of the dust chute round the blade (leaving the side that protects the belt), so it just lets sawdust fall down.

I liked mine (Rafezetter has it now), and I have a TS 200 which I'm refurbing as/when. I think the leg kit is too low as-is, but you might put it on castors, in which case the extra height would probably be good.

Have fun, and be very careful if its your first TS - they don't take prisoners, so safety first all the way. I like Steve Maskery's table saw videos (but then my Kity is in one of them!), and he consulted with the HSE when making them. DO NOT copy anything you see being done by an American in this context!

E.

 

[marcros]

I also had one, and like Erics I think that it was a bit older than yours. I liked it. I sold it to make space for a bandsaw, but regretted selling it. I like kity kit, so bought the 618 saw some months later. I know exactly what Eric means about the cogs- it is the same on the 618 too. I was careful, and didn't have an issue, that may have been luck.

It was my first table saw. I put up with the dust extraction, because I knew no better. I tuned it up a bit, but didn't do much more than alignment of the blade and fence. I would happily have another kity saw.

As for tips, tell us about what you want to use it for, and I am sure that the tips will flood in. The mitre gauge was pretty poor. I would spend some time making a crosscut sleds rather than spending money buying and converting a decent gauge (unless you need odd angles cutting). Plenty of youtube and online plans. Be very careful cutting sheet material, it is a small top and you need a lot of space for a sheet of ply.

 

[MikeJhn]

The Axminster TS-200 and TS-250 are clones of the Kity machines, you may find this thread useful: topic102284.html

Mike

 

[Sideways]

Like the others here, I like mine. It's more useful with the extension tables and longer rails. Dust extraction poor as everyone says so just let it drop or box up as you like - whatever, it does help if you stick a 2" hose on the dust port at the back of the machine and connect it to a decent shop vac. There's a severe restriction just inside the port itself so use a high vacuum type shop vac on it, total waste of time stepping a chip collector down to fit.

 

[MikeJhn]

Could not disagree more, why step it down with the modifications I carried out to my TS-250 the dust and chip extraction is the best I have every seen on any table saw I have used or seen in use in any high end professional workshops.

Mike

 

[MickCheese]

In order to make my tenoning jig fit into the slots I just replaced the runner with a piece of aluminium that I sized on my router table. The aluminium was easy to cut with a router cutter.

 

[TFrench]

Could not disagree more, why step it down with the modifications I carried out to my TS-250 the dust and chip extraction is the best I have every seen on any table saw I have used or seen in use in any high end professional workshops.

Mike

I'm with Mike - mine has a 3" port for dust extract and I've made an adapter to take it up to 4" so my chip extractor hose fits it. There's barely any dust from it. Mine had the mitre gauge but it was a bit pants so I got the UJK one and drilled and tapped the original mitre bar to fit the new one. Works fine.

 

[Sideways]

We can only speak about what we know.
Mike, you modified an Axminster saw. I downloaded the manual you referred to in your linked post. That saw is similar to but definately not identical to my kity 419. Some significant differences for all that they're clearly related. OP was asking about the Kity here and my reply was specific about the rear port on that saw before any mods the OP may or may not choose to make. I stand by my opinion.

TFrench, your saw is probably newer than mine as my model has only a 50mm dust port not 3". Glad to hear that it works better and fingers crossed the OP has the newer one like you and this gives him more extraction options

 

[MikeJhn]

In case anyone needs the information, the Kity 419 (first incarnation) Axminster TS-200 (second and current) and the Scheppach Precisa 2.0 (third and current) are all from the same stable and have the same pedigree with slight modifications and colours between manufactures, but accessorise and spares from any of them fit each other. Some years ago Scheppach took over Kity and still produce the Kity model's, saws and planers, but under their name, I am not sure where any of them source their versions, but presumably from the same factory nationality unknown.

Mike

 

[jimmer]

well thanks all for the replies. especially eric.

it's not my first saw, and the one i have currently is a lot more of a beast, but i'll be careful anyway : )
current saw has no real possibilty fo rextraction, with a chip extractor anyway, and bein part of a lurem combi machine, weighs a ton and takes up a bit of space.
i fancied trying something smaller and seeing if it does the job. the job meaning most of the time dimensioning soft wood, and small clean cuts in ply on a crosscut sled.
so size, weight, 2 mitre slots, and possibly worse extraction that i hoped, were my main reasons for going for it. also becasue my wife's uncel is passing and could pick it up, it has 2 extension tables, which i probably don't need as i have a good rail saw, and the prevoius owner was apparently obsessive. so bodes well. should arrive monday. we'll see
hopefully it will be adequate enough that i can decide to sell my combi machine (i don't use the spindle moulder or mortiser) and get a stand alone planer thicknesser, also with some better extraction.
a little worreid i might miss the 220v 3 phase power...

i had read about the toothed wheels, and have found replacement ones and lots of spare parts on porbois-machinesoutils.com, which suits me as i'm in france.
will see how the blade is when it arrives. are the freud blades that much better than something half decent from Axminster? i do see a lot of them in videos.

 

[MikeJhn]

The Freud blade are the best readily available blade you can get, makes a lot of difference and lots of different tooth configerations also available.

Mike