I cut my first "mason's mitre" joint in a kitchen worktop this week. (well the first one in relatively expensive worktop) All went well with using the jig and cutting the joint (following Argee's method). I ran into a problem on installation though. I committed the sin of not doing a dry fit first, I just went for it and slapped in some silicon and bolted it up. I managed to get the surfaces nice and even but I have a gap of about 1 mm at the front, which shows up as a dark line against the terratzo-effect laminate. Question is, do I try and separate the two parts and re-make the joint (no biscuits, just silicon and the connecting bolts) or is it better to try and disguise my mistake with some of the coloured fillers that are available? Any suggestions gratefully received.
Kitchen worktop mitre joint...help
- Thread starter George_N
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Usually worktops have some sort of moulding along the rear edge to help hide any errors in the wall, (very common).
If possible, depends on the length of course, I would pull the ends around till the gap is closed then hide the inevitable gap along the back edge with a suitable moulding.
Roy.
If possible, depends on the length of course, I would pull the ends around till the gap is closed then hide the inevitable gap along the back edge with a suitable moulding.
Roy.
George_N":2n52s9kt said:
Have you tried loosening the rear and centre bolts and re-tightening the front one? Silicone is quite forgiving and this adjustment may be sufficient. If not, you need to identify why the gap is there - is it because the corner is out of square and one or both parts are aligned to the walls instead of to each other? Would slightly channeling the wall(s) help? Did you secure the tops to the cabinets yet? If push comes to shove, remove the easiest length, scrape the silicone off both, lightly re-apply and re-fit. I usually try to get the joint tight, level and even, bolt it up, then slide the top into position and secure it. Mostly this is OK, even if a little tight, but sometimes, it's just not possible, especially if the bolts are difficult to get at.
If you've already fitted inset appliances (hob, sink) then providing there are flexible connections you should only need to remove the sink waste to give yourself a little bit more manoueverability.
Ray.
Thanks for the quick responses guys. The back of the long length (with sink, flexible connections and also service valves so easy to disconnect if needed) and the end of the short piece are aligned in the corner. The gap is just in the 45 degree mitred section, a uniform 1 mm. I think that if I can separate the two pieces without doing any damage and then slide the short piece to the right (it's a left hand bend) I could close the gap to the point where it would be almost un-noticable. Will the silicon separate quite easily? I aligned the surface of the two sections with a block of wood and a big hammer when the bolts were fairly tight...is there a better way to do this?
The silicone will not be a problem - go ahead and undo the joint. Scrape off the silicone, then very lightly re-apply. I fit all three bolts finger tight, then nudge the joint. If I can get a clamp across the join on the leading edge I will, then temporarily shim the rear edges (if needed) and fully tighten. I often use a double row of biscuits between the bolts to help with alignment, but that's not essential.
Ray.
Ray.
markymark12
Established Member
Hi Guys
I would leave it myself if it is not too bad and apply some colourfil which is far better used than silicon in the first instance. You just need to match the worktop code to the filler which any good supplier should be able to help you with. Even howdens sell it these days.
The reason i say this, is unless you take it apart within a few hours or the silicon is rubbish you will have real problems seperating the two.
I spent around 10 years fitting kitchens and the one thing no fitter likes is worktop changes. I have in the past taken all the bolts out and jumped on the piece just to see how it would hold up, result stuck fast when really pushed it torn the fibres of the core out.
Good luck if you try, let us all know how you get on.
Mark
I would leave it myself if it is not too bad and apply some colourfil which is far better used than silicon in the first instance. You just need to match the worktop code to the filler which any good supplier should be able to help you with. Even howdens sell it these days.
The reason i say this, is unless you take it apart within a few hours or the silicon is rubbish you will have real problems seperating the two.
I spent around 10 years fitting kitchens and the one thing no fitter likes is worktop changes. I have in the past taken all the bolts out and jumped on the piece just to see how it would hold up, result stuck fast when really pushed it torn the fibres of the core out.
Good luck if you try, let us all know how you get on.
Mark
chippy1970
Established Member
George,
If I was you I would not use silicone sealant on worktop joints.
No offence to Argee everyone has a different method but most people use coloured worktop joint sealant this fills any discrepancies in you're joint.
I have done hundreds of worktop joints over the years and most of them do fit nicely together first time but you do get the odd one where you might have a small gap somewhere which is why you need the correct joint filler.
All depends on how good you're router and jig is really you need to make sure the collar is perfectly central or if say you turned the router as you run along the jig it would take off slightly more or less material it only needs to be 1/2 a mm and this gives you a 1mm gap.
Hope this all makes sense as I am a bit groggy at moment just getting over the MAN FLU.
If I was you I would not use silicone sealant on worktop joints.
No offence to Argee everyone has a different method but most people use coloured worktop joint sealant this fills any discrepancies in you're joint.
I have done hundreds of worktop joints over the years and most of them do fit nicely together first time but you do get the odd one where you might have a small gap somewhere which is why you need the correct joint filler.
All depends on how good you're router and jig is really you need to make sure the collar is perfectly central or if say you turned the router as you run along the jig it would take off slightly more or less material it only needs to be 1/2 a mm and this gives you a 1mm gap.
Hope this all makes sense as I am a bit groggy at moment just getting over the MAN FLU.
chipp71970":kfc7e3g7 said:George,
If I was you I would not use silicone sealant on worktop joints.
No offence to Argee everyone has a different method but most people use coloured worktop joint sealant this fills any discrepancies in you're joint.
I have done hundreds of worktop joints over the years and most of them do fit nicely together first time but you do get the odd one where you might have a small gap somewhere which is why you need the correct joint filler.
All depends on how good you're router and jig is really you need to make sure the collar is perfectly central or if say you turned the router as you run along the jig it would take off slightly more or less material it only needs to be 1/2 a mm and this gives you a 1mm gap.
Hope this all makes sense as I am a bit groggy at moment just getting over the MAN FLU.
Too late with the "don't use silicon" advice I'm afraid, already done. The joint itself is ok, it's my assembly that is at fault. As I said in my earlier post it is a terazzo-style finish, basically light gray with various colours ranging from black right through to light cream. Re-making the joint would be by far the most satisfactory way of sorting it because all that is needed is for the shorter length to slide along 1 mm or so. The alternative is to get the coloured filler to match the base colour of the worktop which will be somewhat better than the dark line that the silicon gives me.
chippy1970
Established Member
Well at least you know what to do next time
