Jigsaws

[jaymar]

I need to cut a worktop (wood) to take a sink. I have tried using a jigsaw in the past with very poor results so am reluctant to risk a worktop disaster. I do admit my jigsaw is a cheap thing but apart from the blade quality I don't see how the devise moving the blade can make a vast difference.
Can anybody advise on the use of this infernal device, I have also considered using a router but making such a large template is a little daunting.

 

[xy mosian]

You don't describe the 'poor results' so it's difficult to judge, but my bet is that you are pushing the cut. This will tend to encourage the blade to take the path of least resistance and effectively wobble all over the place. Have another go with your jigsaw and take your time, take almost as long, if not longer, than you would if cutting by hand powered saw.
This is obvious, but the jig saw cannot follow any line. You, the driver, need to steer the cut, not the jigsaw, it is possible to very closely follow a line with a jigsaw by watching the cut.
If I'm teaching Grandma etc.. then I apologise.
xy

 

[carlb40]

It will be down to the quality of the saw, the better ones have less vibration. Which when cutting out for sinks is important. I would say plenty of good ie bosch/ dewalt blades and keep the reciprocation setting as low as possible. Take your time and it should be ok.

 

[jaymar]

Thanks guys. I was beginning to suspect it was my poor use of the saw. I will practice on an offcut of said worktop.

 

[carlb40]

These are what i use on worktops

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dt2164 ... of-5/81851

I see they have dropped the price now. I don't use the down cut blades as i don't get on with them. I get very good results, very minimal chipping of the w/tops if any when new

 

[xy mosian]

The blades that carlb40 provides the link to look as if they have very little set, definitely a good bet for cutting worktops. Personally I get on very well with downcutting blades, but each to their own.
xy

 

[Steve Maskery]

Both the saw and the blades make a huge difference. My first jig saw was an Axi White and it was dreadful. There was very poor blade support, so it was lousy even with a good blade (which was very difficult indeed to change and secure).
I now have a Bosch and it is in a different league. Much better blade support, dead easy blade change, very good control.
With the Bosch Precision blades installed it is clean and fast, a combo I thought was not possible.
If you get British Woodworking magazine, there is a brief review in a kitchen article just a couple of issues ago.
I'm afraid you really do get what you pay for.
S

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Try to borrow a good jigsaw and try it on your scrap - the blades are the first port of call, but I suspect your saw is answerable for part of your problem.

 

[Nick Gibbs]

Thinking about it, the jigsaw is one tool that's worth not buying cheap. As Steve says, cheap ones vibrate and have poor shoes. I bought an expensive Metabo 25 years ago and it's still going strong, though I love Makita's 10.8v cordless. It may not be powerful enough for you though.

Nick

 

[Mark A]

I agree with the comments above.

When my dad's old Black and Decker jigsaw melted while cutting a worktop I replaced it first with a MacAllister from B&Q, and then a Ryobi. Both broke within days of purchasing and were subsequently returned to the shops. I finally bought a Bosch GST120BE and the difference is night and day - accurate, well made, reliable. Everything the cheap saws are not.

Regarding blades, I use Festool and the Bosch Precision (T144DP) Steve mentioned earlier.

Mark

 

[steadyeddie]

A combination of a decent jigsaw and good quality blades should do the trick. As said previously, take it steady to achieve a good cut. Worktops are obviously quite thick and so more of the blade will be making contact and this will make the blade get hotter, quicker. I find this is when blades start to wander. When this happens, change the blade. A pack of blades are cheaper than having to replace the worktop if its ruined.

Dave

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Another thing - the slightest bit of blunting on the teeth on one side of a blade will cause it to pull to that side, the blade to all intents and purposes still being sharp. If you're using expensive materials, take a minute and look at the blade in good light - if there are even the tiniest of flats on the tips, get a new blade. Put that one away for rougher work.

 

[No skills]

Keep the changing the blades if you feel any change in the cut as you go (as mentioned good quality blades a must).
If your using down cut blades then you must keep right on top of the saw as they have a tendancy to lift in thick material.
Good jigsaws are a must, dont waste money on junk. Bosch blue are usualy pretty good (some of my favourites) / I also like the Metabos - got one for home and had a couple at work. Makitas are junk junk junk, had 3 or 4 at work now - short lived un-reliable crap. Got an AEG currently at work (orange and grey in colour), its ok but the sole design is crap, forever coming loose - this one was a replacement for a blue one that was stolen in a break in - the blue one wasnt as good as this one.

 

[jimmy rivers]

Cutting thicker stock such as solid timber worktops my approach is to cut as close as I dare with the jigsaw as I find even the better built ones can wander as they meet different resistances in the material. Then I clean up with a template/fence and a bearing guided router cutter (sheared).

TBH I would really only use this methods for cuts seen (curved leading edges, corner radiuses etc.). For unseen cut outs to receive sinks, hobs etc. I prefer a rail/ plunge saw (with an anti kick-back stop) and finish corners with a jigsaw or hand saw.

Cheers,

Jim