Jet JTS 600 V Axminster AW10BSB2

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Duparcq

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I am in the process of buying a new Table saw, I have space for either the Axminster AW10BSB2 without the sliding carriage or the Jet JTS 600

I am aware of the smaller cutting ability of the Jet and that its mitre slot is 12mm wide

I would appreciate any opinions on either machine but specifically if the mitre slot and cutting size differences on the Jet have been an issue

regards

Brian
 
Did you make a decision on this? I'm almost decided on the Axminster, but although this is a bit more spendy, it looks nice.

It's also discussed in another thread from a few years ago: jet-jts-600-t39696.html

Like you, I don't have the space for the sliding table on the Axminster, and it wasn't something essential for me - but it's nice to have and the Jet still looks compact. Lack of mitre slot on the RHS shouldn't really be an issue given the sliding table on the left anyway. Max width to the fence seems the same as the Axminster, 610mm.

Looks similar to a Record TS250RS?
 
I am leaning towards the Jet as the smaller compact footprint and weight (moving it about may be necessary) are key.

The 12 mm slot does mean that jigs set up for other equipment with 19 miter will need modification but the sliding carriage helps alleviate their need on the jet TS.

Also, as a unit the Jet will crosscut and rip approx 610 mm - the Axminster without the sliding carriage without a sledge cross cut less than this.

I could fit the Axminster TS in but without the sliding carriage it loses a lot of its advantages. If I bought it with the sliding carriage taking it on and off would be too much hassle plus from what little research I have achieved, I am not sure how well this feature works. Also, I would always be double checking its set up every time I fitted it which may or may not be necessary?

I did read an issue regarding Jet parts but with a 3 year warranty I am hoping that Axminster look after any potential problems accordingly

Hope this makes sense, If any one else with more experience can help advise or correct any of my views it would be appreciated



Also, reading
 
I've got the Axy saw with the sliding carriage and once setup properly it doesn't move out of true . Also its very simple to take off the tool post and mitre fence mechanism leaving just the flat sliding table which doesn't interfere with anything to the left of the blade. When I assembled mine I bought the heavy wheel frame thing which allows me to move it round the workshop. Truth is I rarely do this because its quite useful as an assembly table with the blade retracted and dpc draped over it to protect the cast iron.
 
Thanks for the replies on this - all useful info! I'm leaning toward the Axminster, although without the sliding carriage - on reflection, £1200 is a bit beyond my budget either way, but at least if I ever have more space for it, I can buy it (or somehow make one). I use the SCMS for crosscuts or the router for bigger ones. It also now includes a steel RH table to give the same 610mm capacity to fence as the Jet.

Random Orbital Bob":2g4c3u6x said:
I've got the Axy saw with the sliding carriage and once setup properly it doesn't move out of true

Does it have a standard size mitre slot? I'd likely be using one/both if I didn't have the sliding table. And do you have a dedicated 16a socket for it? Or does it work OK on a 13a? It's rated 2200w but my PT is the same and it's fine on a 13a. Interestingly they don't stipulate 16a for the Jet, which is 2600w...
 
Bob,

The assembly table is a good idea

Could you tell me:

1. The length and width of the runner assembly that supports the sliding table

2. How easy it is to manoeuvre the axi on the wheel base

3. Which blade you would recommend

4. The length of the long fence that fits onto the sliding table

5. Have you had any issues re the accuracy of the sliding table

Regards

Brian
 
matthew":3t7kg16s said:
Does it have a standard size mitre slot? I'd likely be using one/both if I didn't have the sliding table. And do you have a dedicated 16a socket for it? Or does it work OK on a 13a? It's rated 2200w but my PT is the same and it's fine on a 13a. Interestingly they don't stipulate 16a for the Jet, which is 2600w...

It does have a standard 3/4" mitre slot which was important for me due to the desire for after market mitre fences plus generally available jigs that I dreamt I might want. No dedicated 16A supply, it works fine from a 13A socket and has never tripped my electrics. I also have a pretty meaty P/T, a Startrite, which is also rated for 16A and doesn't trip the switch on startup either so its definitely worth trying before you go to the trouble of installing all that jazz.

Some 3 years on I never did buy the Incra mitre fence or any other for that matter because the out the box Axy kit was good enough. I did make a real quick zero clearance mitre fence with an oak sacrificial fence which I use for quick and dirty cross cuts. If I'm sizing larger boards I install the proper sliding fence system because it has a hold down clamp which is really helpful. I take it off when not in use but leave in place the actual sliding table because its flat and therefore doesn't hinder any rip cuts
 
Duparcq":1bu8f4fd said:
Bob,

The assembly table is a good idea

Could you tell me:

1. The length and width of the runner assembly that supports the sliding table

2. How easy it is to manoeuvre the axi on the wheel base

3. Which blade you would recommend

4. The length of the long fence that fits onto the sliding table

5. Have you had any issues re the accuracy of the sliding table

Regards

Brian

Blimey Brian...I had to go get a tape measure to answer your questions...you know...that involved moving from the chair where my tea was and everything :)

Here we go...even took a few snaps for you.

Runner assembly is 6 foot dead by 8 inch off the side of the saw. Its on Bristol lever locked positioners so you can move its starting point such that the sliding table can be brought all the way in front of the blade. This is deliberate so you can fit a full 4 foot sheet good in front of the blade. My usual position is to have the runner out the back of the table so I can easily manoeuvre myself when standing in front of the saw (such that the table extends out the back of the saw).

Its not too bad to move around on the base. That process is made harder if (as I do) you have the right hand table extension because its supported by a steel leg which is of course outside the wheel base. You need to just pop this up a couple of inches before moving it or it snags on the ground. You could make a tiny little dolly to make this mobile if you were feeling particularly anal one Sunday morning!

I have a general ripping blade but the one I use most often is an 80 tooth fine cut blade because the finish is awesome. For very important cuts (ie those which will be jointed with real wood as opposed to sheet goods) I always over cut by about 0.5mm and plane back to true so there are no blade scoring marks etc that might affect the joint.

Long mitre fence....1060mm extending to 1800mm.

The sliding table is fiddly to setup initially because you're competing with distance from side of table with distance from top of table. Each time you adjust one it throws the other out a fraction. So, trial and error a bit. What really helps is a good magnetic dial gauge so you're dealing with definites. Like all precision setups, it takes a while but it's eminently do-able and once set I haven't needed to change it.

Heres a few snaps showing the sliding table assembly and that supporting pillar on the RH table extension...and the wheel base which I remember now I bought from Axy at the same time.

My experience, its a very solid machine with large capacities. I had the TS200 before and that's a toy compared to this.t
 

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Bob,

Fantastic reply, the pictures are better than a thousand words tho couldn't see your chair!!!

I had planned to visit the Axminster showroom last week but the tube strike knocked that idea on the head.

I will get the tape measure back out.

Regards

Brian
 
I have the 12" version of the Axy and until recently had just the one side extension fitted just like you Bob, but never fitted the leg as I assumed that was just for the second extension. It has been moved around on a Dakota base with no problem and never shown any sag unsupported.

I have recently [at long last] made a larger and better mobile base which extends to the right and supports the second extension and allows the long awaited fitting of the full width fence rails.

Regarding the sliding table, if you do feel the need to remove it it's actually quicker and easier to take the whole thing off the slide rails [one pozi screw] than it is to unscrew the clamp post and 'miter guage'.

Brian I'm going to St Helier in three weeks, will the weather be habitable? because it's bloody terrible on the mainland.
 
Random Orbital Bob":qqajek8z said:
It does have a standard 3/4" mitre slot which was important for me due to the desire for after market mitre fences plus generally available jigs that I dreamt I might want. No dedicated 16A supply, it works fine from a 13A socket and has never tripped my electrics. I also have a pretty meaty P/T, a Startrite, which is also rated for 16A and doesn't trip the switch on startup either so its definitely worth trying before you go to the trouble of installing all that jazz.

Huge thanks for the info! Also the pictures in your other reply - very helpful to see it in situ. Think I'm going to go with the Axminster, sans sliding table - good accurate rips is what I struggle most with so that should fit the bill!

Now to make some space for it before ordering...
 
After long deliberation and considerable help and advice from all, finally ordered the Axminster AW10BSB2 but without the sliding carriage - very excited!!

Any details on the folding outfeed table would be appreciated.

Weather here in Jersey has like the UK been pretty wild but starting to improve, not sure for how long as weather map shows more systems on the way. Only good thing is that it is fairly warm for this time of year.
 
Bob,

brain fade, been a long day.

I thought that there had been mention in this thread of constructing a folding outfeed table - i will dig a little deeper as I thought it was a simple idea when moving the saw table out of the way

Regards

Brian
 
The outfeed, if the same as mine on the 12", consists of two large fixed brackets bolted to the saw base, with a steel table [folded construction] bolted to the upper horizontal arms of the brackets. I've replaced the supplied table with an MFC router table top.......and I'm going to do it again but properly this time :oops:
 
I have the Axi model and have it plugged into a 16 amp circuit as recommended by Axminster.

John
 
Brian - glad you ordered the saw, me too - also without the sliding table. Looking forward to getting it!

Duparcq":2dsnfif1 said:
Bob,
I thought that there had been mention in this thread of constructing a folding outfeed table - i will dig a little deeper as I thought it was a simple idea when moving the saw table out of the way

I also thought that a folding one may be a good idea - am also a bit limited for space. I've got a couple of those folding hinges spare so may try and rustle one up when I get the saw - if so I will post pics.

Again, many thanks for the advice - especially for Bob's pics and info. I'll be back when I can't figure out how to set it up :)
 
LOL.....one tip.....don't muller the crate it ships in, some nice 1/4" ply for jig making there :)

I will give you one warning though, surprise surprise....the manual is truly dismal! I reckon there must be a market for Haynes manual equivalent in the tool industry. I mean the quality of technical writing is so legendarily bad that its a standing joke.
 

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