I am looking to eradicate rust from workshop tools. Lots of rust prevention products out there. Done a bit of searching on the web. Came up with 'Jenolite' as a good product. Anybody used it? Good results?
'Jenolite' Rust Prevention
- Thread starter Mikegtr
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
guineafowl21
Established Member
I’ve used Jenolite rust converter to treat rusty tools, and it works fine. For prevention, you need a different product - hard to beat a wipe over with WD40 or silicone spray.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Silicone spray is a very bad idea. It transfers to the wood and causes problems, fish eye/orange peel, with film finishes like lacquer, varnish etc. Keep it out of your shop altogether. Almost impossible to clean it off once it is a problem.
Paste wax is as good as anything but a warm shop is by far the best.
Pete
Paste wax is as good as anything but a warm shop is by far the best.
Pete
pidgeonpost
Established Member
When I had an unheated stone-built shed as a workshop I bought some Camellia oil from Axminster. It seemed to work very well over one winter. The next year we moved house and I now have a relatively toasty indoor workshop.
Here's a link...
Here's a link...
Jelonite is mostly phosphoric acid. Same as in Coca-Cola (which is why coke brightens old pennies over night)
You can buy phosphoric off eBay.
Large stuff, and you can't beat electrolysis. It's amazing. Some object that you can hardly see for rust, dump it in the tank for a day or so, hook it out and pressure wash it for that grey "just blasted" look.
The bonus of electrolysis is that it stops when done. Acids etc eat the good material too.
Ive gone through a phase of using various things, close to hand, to prevent rust. My favourite of the moment is certainly briwax. So I would imagine any wax sort of product to be just as good. It works a lot better than the various oils that I've tried in the past.
For proper prevention however, epoxy primer... But obviously not on working surfaces.
You can buy phosphoric off eBay.
Large stuff, and you can't beat electrolysis. It's amazing. Some object that you can hardly see for rust, dump it in the tank for a day or so, hook it out and pressure wash it for that grey "just blasted" look.
The bonus of electrolysis is that it stops when done. Acids etc eat the good material too.
Ive gone through a phase of using various things, close to hand, to prevent rust. My favourite of the moment is certainly briwax. So I would imagine any wax sort of product to be just as good. It works a lot better than the various oils that I've tried in the past.
For proper prevention however, epoxy primer... But obviously not on working surfaces.
Richard_C
Established Member
Years since I used Jenolite, spots on rusty car panels. If I recall it had phosphoric acid in it, not something you would want to handle. Remover/treatment yes, but for a preventer almost any light oil or wax should work.
My latest tool in the anti rust battle is to use ACF50.
It’s now used widely by motorcyclists to keep motorcycles looking box fresh over the winter - and it really does work incredibly well. It’s a special anti corrosion spray originally developed to be used on the electrics of aircraft and other sensitive bits of the plane. It’s magical magical stuff and designed especially for the job you are trying to do.
It’s now used widely by motorcyclists to keep motorcycles looking box fresh over the winter - and it really does work incredibly well. It’s a special anti corrosion spray originally developed to be used on the electrics of aircraft and other sensitive bits of the plane. It’s magical magical stuff and designed especially for the job you are trying to do.
Phosphoric acid is good stuff. I got mine from a chemical supply house locally - full strength known as syrupy phosphoric acid - cos it is, abit. diluite 1 part acid to about 9 of water for a 10% solution. Although full strength, it won't dissolve your fingers away, but wear rubber gloves and an eye shield just in case, and wash off splashes or it stings a bit. You use the diluted stuff on rust. Many large objects can be done by turning over and over. I use one of those plastic storage boxes for that. Phosphoric acid forms the phosphate on clean ferrous (or after rust is gone). The phosphate is insoluble, so the reaction gradually slows and stops, leaving a coating which provides an excellent grip for paint - car bodies are/were phoshate dipped (unless made from zinc flashed steel). This prepares them for painting. On the zinc coated bodies they use a self etch primer.
Jenolite may have a small proportion of hydrochloric acid in it, if so, it may well keep attacking the ferous surface.
I can vouch for ACF50, if a bit expensive.However did a good job on the old landrover.
Ax's camelia oil is a mix with mineral oil (baby oil etc). Pure camelia is available on Amazon as tea tree oil (tea is a camelia) much cheaper. I usually use rapeseed oil to wipe tools, look for the yellow flower on veg oil in Tesco and check label, about £1 a litre. It's used commercialy as a specialist lubricant - presumably with adatives - but that's not needed here. Somewhere I saw Johoba oil recommended. neither are supposed to oxidise and gum up, like linseed. Veg oil is finish friendly.
Jenolite may have a small proportion of hydrochloric acid in it, if so, it may well keep attacking the ferous surface.
I can vouch for ACF50, if a bit expensive.However did a good job on the old landrover.
Ax's camelia oil is a mix with mineral oil (baby oil etc). Pure camelia is available on Amazon as tea tree oil (tea is a camelia) much cheaper. I usually use rapeseed oil to wipe tools, look for the yellow flower on veg oil in Tesco and check label, about £1 a litre. It's used commercialy as a specialist lubricant - presumably with adatives - but that's not needed here. Somewhere I saw Johoba oil recommended. neither are supposed to oxidise and gum up, like linseed. Veg oil is finish friendly.
Terrytpot
Established Member
When younger and in a bit of a rush and only when all eyes were averted I may , allegedly , have been known to use it (quite effectively) to remove carbon from an SLR gas plug. Further rumours of me also using a scotchbrite pad are totally unfounded and will be denied by me until the statute of limitations in respect to damage to MOD property has long expired. 
Thanks everybody for your info--much appreciated.
