Japanese plane

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How annoying that the 2'' wide, 4' long shaving kept getting wrapped around his arm? :-D
 
Some things that look simple aren't, there is a lot of skill in making a plane and sharpening the blade.


Have a look at the plaining competitions and see just how wide and thin they can go.


Pete
 
I suspect it's about true to life as a Volkswagen Emission test.

That bit of wood is not just a lump off a wood pile
I bet we don't see the 100s of outakes and resharpens that happened for that 120 secs of film

I reckon I could do the same with my manky old Stanley 8) :lol:
 
img_4495-1.jpg
 
I do not build furniture out of straight-grained yellow cedar. These planing exhibitions are not representative of the work we do in a workshop. Nevertheless, there is skill in sharpening a blade, setting up the plane, and using it. In this particular case, the shavings have fine striations, which suggests that either he has had a goodly number of outtakes for the video and the blade is a little worn, or the blade was not sharpened as well as Brian can. :) .

Regards from a Perth

Derek
 
Haha thanks Derek! No chance of 8 micron shavings in most hardwoods...,,err most woods.

Yellow cedar is a timber framer or shoji maker's wood, so there is practical purpose for the insanity, once it is backed off a few notches.
 
Well Brian, I will have to query that.

I reckon I can get close to half a thou" 0.0005 in English Sycamore or Maple.

I thou" 0.001 is about 25 microns if I have done my sums right.

So this would be close to 12 microns.

This is with my tuned up Stanley 5 1/2 with Hock blade & L-N new C/B.

Happy new year,
David
 
David C":27jc9vau said:
Well Brian, I will have to query that.

I reckon I can get close to half a thou" 0.0005 in English Sycamore or Maple.

I thou" 0.001 is about 25 microns if I have done my sums right.

So this would be close to 12 microns.

This is with my tuned up Stanley 5 1/2 with Hock blade & L-N new C/B.

Happy new year,
David

We need photographic evidence David :D
 
It's not just the thickness of the shavings that''s remarkable;

They're uniform, full width, and sustained over long distances.

Still unrepresentative of day to day woodworking, just like Olympic archery is unrepresentative of war or hunting.

It's a thing in its own right.

BugBear
 
There's loads of these planing videos, but generally speaking they're unrepresentative of the real challenges you face in cabinet making. Consequently I regard them as, at best, a distraction; and at worst as misinformation that can confuse a newcomer to the craft.

The common failing are,

-Implying that a thin shaving is the gold standard. There are times when you want a thin shaving, but most times you want something thicker in order to get the job done. I'm far more impressed by a tear out free thicker shaving than by a gossamer thin shaving, which is why I believe DW's campaign on behalf of closely set cap irons was such a valuable contribution to practical woodworking knowledge.

-Most of these videos, including the one linked, show a shaving that extends across the full width of the board, i.e. they're mainly edge shavings. But edge shavings are a fairly specialised category of planing, in my work that's generally about edge jointing boards to form a top, when I do this it's all about the camber of the iron, I'm not really concerned with the thinness of the shaving. If someone is trying to illustrate a finishing shaving then it would make far more sense to use a much wider board and clearly illustrate how it fades out to nothing at the edges (to minimise ridges) while still being both thin and wide. That would demonstrate far more skill in plane preparation than an edge shaving from a 25mm or 30mm wide board.

-As Derek pointed out, the timber choice is often unrepresentative of the main furniture making timbers. In these videos they're usually either timbers that are far too benign, or alternatively they're dubbed "the unplaneable board from hell" when in fact they're anything but! Often the poster has limited woodworking experience and has drawn their "unplaneable" board from their very limited timber stocks, so what?
 
Implying that a thin shaving is the gold standard. There are times when you want a thin shaving, but most times you want something thicker in order to get the job done. I'm far more impressed by a tear out free thicker shaving than by a gossamer thin shaving, which is why I believe DW's campaign on behalf of closely set cap irons was such a valuable contribution to practical woodworking knowledge

Well said, Custard.

Up until the re-emergence of the chipbreaker, I relied on high cutting angles. These planes (both BU and BD) really only work when taking thin shavings as the resistance is high. The closed up chipbreaker changed that, and offered a wider range in planing options.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
custard":qnpms3ob said:
-Most of these videos, including the one linked, show a shaving that extends across the full width of the board, i.e. they're mainly edge shavings. But edge shavings are a fairly specialised category of planing, in my work that's generally about edge jointing boards to form a top, when I do this it's all about the camber of the iron, I'm not really concerned with the thinness of the shaving. If someone is trying to illustrate a finishing shaving then it would make far more sense to use a much wider board and clearly illustrate how it fades out to nothing at the edges (to minimise ridges) while still being both thin and wide. That would demonstrate far more skill in plane preparation than an edge shaving from a 25mm or 30mm wide board.

Like this?

20022008229.jpg


Courtesy of a Clifton No7.

Cheers

Karl
 
Perhaps we can assume though that the Japanese have happily been using this type of plane on all kinds of timber for a very long time. So the question still remains and it begs another. Would a modern day Japanese carpenter buy a western plane.
 
8 microns, which I cut, is a fairly heavy shaving by comparison to current record, which is 2 microns. That shaving is 2" wide and 8' long unbroken and un-split.

Assuming all sort of implications is where you go wrong. It's a fun event, everyone who participates realizes that it is just that. The one that I attended was mostly professional woodworkers and each of them know that this is not an everyday woodworking/furniture making or even carpentry requirement. No one is going around saying you need to do this in order to do your everyday work.

The important thing, you learn in the process of doing; you learn a lot about what works and what doesn't work WRT sharpening and plane sole setup and when you return to normal, everyday work, you find it much easier by comparison.

What most do not realize in passing is that the beam is as tuned as the plane. I spent a few moments planing the beam to .001" flatness over 8' length, checking with a straight edge and feeler gauge....something I would not do in regular woodworking. One also typically uses VG lumber.
 

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