Insert not flush on my AWFS18

[Eda]

Hello,

The insert on my AWF18 does not sit flush with the table. :shock: It is lower, half a millimeter lower perhaps, but still, it makes a "kerb" on which small jigsaw pieces catch and stay stuck. Very awkward to try to lift them up whilst cutting, makes quite a mess of things.

It also mean than there is no base support close to the blade whilst cutting larger pieces, and so I imagine it does nothing for the quality of the cut. In theory shouldn't it increase the splintering?

Does anybody else has this problem, and how do you solve it?
I have seen a different make of scrollsaw featuring a lower insert, so I imagine it may be a common occurrence. :?

 

[StevieB]

Two general ways - either make your own out of a suitable thickness of plywood or MDF, or stick a bit of card to the bottom of the existing one until it gets to the right height. Being lower than the table is easier than being higher, since you then have no option but to make a new one.

A third solution, but alot more cumbersome, is to fit a false table - just a sheet of thin material - over the entire table and cut through it to get the false table in the correct position. This can make blade changing more cumbersome however as you have to thread through the false table or remove it each time.

Steve.

 

[hawkinob]

You have the answers but should card be a little thick try a layer or layers of sticky tape (on the underside of the insert) until you have it flush. Shouldn't be like that in the beginning but, sadly, not uncommon.
Hope it helps.
Bob H.

 

[jlawrence]

I'd use bits of paper to shim it up until it fits flat - at the end of the day it's no different to making an insert for a table saw, if you don't need to shim it at all it'd be very unusual.

 

[Eda]

Thank you all for your advice.

I had indeed thought about sticking some card or masking tape underneath :idea: , but feared it was too simple and low tech an idea to work, and probably a stupid idea that would make a mess.

I have duly cut a circle of card to give the insert that little bit of extra lift and realised that the insert was actually stuck and needed some serious hammering to free it up. It turned out that the inserts (I tried the spare one as well) are too big to simply drop in and out of the hole :shock: . Filing sorted that out. I wonder if it is part of the "rough round the edges" characteristic of the AWFS18 that you don't get if you pay an extra £500 for a Hegner?

 

[Geoffrey]

Hi Eda i use electrical tape on my inserts it works well.
I think you have hit the nail on the head when you compare the Hegner and AWSF 18 i have both machines.
The table on my AWFS 18 was not flat when i got it and i got it re machined Eda put a straight edge across your table width and length.
If you get a gap under it ring Axminster for advice or send it back to too them.
You can not make compound cuts if it is not flat.
And it will cause over problems as well :shock:

Geoff

 

[Eda]

Hi Geoff,
I see what you mean. When I put the edge of a metal ruler across the table and shine a light behind, I can see that the table curves down inward ever so slightly, just enough to be able to slide the corner of a piece of paper underneath in the centre.
I am not sure what compound cuts are, so I assume I shan't make them just yet, all I'm planning to do are puzzles really, so I might be able to live with it.

One of my main puzzlement now is still the insert. The card makes it at the right height, but now the wood "stalls" as I am cutting, especially at the start, and the wood and the insert jump up and down. I think it's because as the blade is pushed it catches the insert. When I turn the insert so that the slit is in line with the blade, the blade moves more freely but the cut is messy and splintery.

Time to change the blade perhaps and experiment some more with sticky tape, tensioning, spirit level, etc.

Life ain't easy

 

[Geoffrey]

Hi Eda at least your table is not as bad as mine was if you are doing puzzles it is ok for that.
If you are cutting 6 mm ply i use no more than a #5 num blade 13tpi.
And try more Tension on the saw i run my awfs18 at no more than the 12
position on the speed dial.
I use birch faced ply and it as 5 layers in it.
Some ply is rubbish and splits like mad no matter wot you use.
also if table is not flat you lose support under the blade as you said in a earlier post.

Geoff