In the workshop at last.

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the wiring sounds like a nightmare.....
have a PV system to sort out soon but that will be done by a specialist.....

About the belt.....
those Poly V belts willl succsessfuly work inside out instead of the original flat belt....
saves the cost of those special pulley's
lots of the old belts were some kinda canvas webbing....
horrible stuff unless they were very long as in traction engines....
just sayin......

Many thanks clogs. These Poly V Belts will run using either ribbed or flat on a flat pulley; I'm running mine with the grooves against the pulleys; the pulleys on the mandrel are the original flat belt drive type but I bought a new Poly V pulley for the motor together with the taper insert; these Poly V pulleys are a delight to use and so easy to install and remove; for novices who come across one of these Poly V pulleys (any taper lock) needing to remove it simply remove the grub screws then insert one of the screws as seen here in the video to remove the pulley;

Taper lock pulleys come in many types and can be bought over the counter if stocked or ordered at a bearing supplier.

Starting work in the pit workshop aged 15 my first job each morning at 6 o'clock was to get the line shaft running it driven by wide flat belting; the H&S lot would be horrified seeing this these days but I always felt very safe due to extensive training.

My new VFD had been giving me no end of grief for a few days it refusing to work correctly; the user manual is basic; I tried everything I could think of and eventually got the lathe motor running but it wasn't happy; the speed control potentiometer on the VFD only worked on a small part of rotation then it quickly brought the motor from stop to going ballistic; I tried and tried adjusting parameters without luck; I found on the web many were having lots of such problems but these were of no use to me because each suggested try this or try that?

VFD Mod_0003.JPG

I gave up trying to make sense of the owners booklet and gave this a lot of thought; looking around in the workshop at bits of vintage radio restoration items I still have I have a selection of resistors including a ribbon of about 100 x 10K resistors so I decided to experiment;. I soldered one of these in series with the potentiometer wiper (middle) now I was getting somewhere; the travel on the speed dial had increased; out of curiosity I then soldered this resistor in series at the track end (pot end connector) resoldering the original wire to to the wiper but now I was back to ballistic lift off so removed the resistor and resolderd the wire; what if I solder two of these 10K resistors in series with the wiper; I've now got full control of the lathe after many hours of messing around with the manual. I'm unsure if the heavy duty 2W potentiometer seen is Log or Linear track so I've bought through eBay a 10K Linear potentiometer and also a 50K linear potentiomer to play around with.

To connect these two 10K resistors in series with the wiper; as seen I twisted two ends together and soldered leaving two wire ends; one was soldered to the wiper the other to the connecting wire completing the circuit. Now I can control the lathe I can experiment further and use this new found knowledge to look at the parameters again; there must be parameters to set allowing proper control without the need to bypass them as I've done.

VFD Mod_0004.JPG

I strongly do not encourage anyone to play around with mains powered electrical kit as seen here in my workshop; one simple mistake could be the last mistake ever made.

I'll update after a bit more experimenting but at least there is now one working solution to the problem on the web. All I want to do is spend time in my studio learning to play my violins and to get used to all the studio gear; I could well do without these silly annoying problems robbing me of so much time.

Kind regards, Colin.