In situ planer blade honing?

[Unib]

I was wondering how effective diamond honing tools are on planer blades - I'm referring to this sort of thing...http://bit.ly/ZVFeh8

Does anyone use one - do they work? I think resetting planer blades has to be my most hated job in the workshop so anything that prolonged the time 'til I have to take them out to get them resharpened would be good!

 

[Mike.C]

I use the same one and it's great for keeping the blades sharp if you use it regularly and do not let them get to blunt.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I have one of these, quite useful for a quick skim to freshen up the blades when you notice tearing or when the timber starts to need more force to push through the blades. There are limitations though, not really what you would want for dealing with larger nicks caused by knots/foreign objects etc. This will need to be carried out by a skilled sharpening business where the blades can be sharpened in equal measures.

As I say, useful for a quick brush up.

 

[Unib]

Thanks for the feedback - sounds good, appreciate it's not going to be able to tackle nicks and the like but sounds good for keeping properly sharpened blades refreshed. I always take mine to the local sharpening business for major resharpening - I've tried doing it myself but I just don't think it's worth the faff!

I see Tilgear have a cheaper version so I'll maybe get that and give it a go

 

[Ollie78]

I don`t have a specific tool for this job. I use a small credit card sized diamond stone which has medium on one side and fine on the other.
I carefully align the blade and wedge the drum still (unplugged the planer first then lifted the bed into thickness mode). With care you can run the stone back and forth until you have a uniform scratch pattern then repeat with the fine side. Wipe with a rag, job done.
I think this method works well because of the thin card. It wont take out large nicks though. Little and often is the way.

Ollie

 

[Unib]

Thanks Ollie, that sounds like a good option too. Do you hone a secondary bevel on the blades or stick with one main bevel if you see what I mean?

 

[custard]

It's normally just the one bevel, although David Charlesworth recommends a back bevel for difficult timbers which he hones in-situ

 

[Ollie78]

I just follow the original bevel. I find it best to do it with the blade as horizontal as possible unlike the picture in the link and just go steady. I have cut my finger twice while doing this but have got the hang of holding it safely now.