I'm confused please help

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Batfink44

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Ok I'm hooked on woodworking.. I've only been doing it for a very short time but I love it. I should have started this up years ago its so theraputic..

I've only been doing things like plaques and some scrollwork but ive been reading a bandsaw Box design book and i know this is the sort of thing that will float my boat :lol:

Heres the tricky part I have a budget of around £300 and i need to do some precise cuts, Ive been browsing and reading up but having no experience with these machines im very confused on what machine to go for and what to look for..
Ive seen these machines
SIP 12" 01486
Axminster AWBS
could anyone who has these machines give me some advice please or recommend any other machines that i should read up on £300 is alot of money for me to throw at something i know nothing about so any advice would be really appreciated.
 
I own that SIP model and, while I'll often say to myself that I'd like something bigger, I'm actually very happy with it and have been impressed with what I bought for just over £200 back in '06.

The most important thing would be to remove the blade that comes fitted with the saw and buy some good quality ones from somewhere like Dragon Saws (Google them).

How deep are these cuts you're looking to make? Don't forget eBay; for £300, you could get an older machine like a green Elektra Beckum (I see plenty of them on auction around the country).
 
Just like Olly I own the SIP model and have no complaints, it has cut through 7 inch Oak and Walnut without any major problems, well that is apart from the key falling off the drive shaft but thats just come loose over a few years use, just re fitted and its fine, I bought it second hand 18 Months ago
 
cheers guys I'm looking of doing about 6" deep cuts. Obviously i would like the machine I buy to grow with me as my skills get better and also is it an accurate machine or will I have to keep adjusting it? as for blades what blades would be recommended?? I've heard Olson are quite good and to upgrade the blade guides to cool blocks. Not knowing exactly what these do is it a neccesity to do or is it something to do as and when?
 
A lot of bandsaws are often only as good as the blades you equip them with! I cannot fault the service of Dragon Saws in Caerohilly; Ian John is a great guy to deal with and he'll help you choose the correct blades for the work you intend to do.

On the subject of blades, although the spec. quotes this saw as being able to take a 5/8" wide blade, you won't be able to tension it properly. It will fit on the wheels, sure. The frame just isn't strong enough - unless you use thin-kerf blades (.020" thick against the standard .025"). I've always found 1/2" blades to be more than accurate enough for general ripping tasks, even up to 6" deep.

I've never had any problems with the blade tension, tracking or guide adjustments moving during use. You may need adjust the rip fence occasionally to compensate for the 'blade drift' on a brand new blade... This isn't easy, as you have to remove the fence to get to the bolts underneath. :( It does look quite solidy though.

Dust extraction isn't great either, mainly because there's only one 100mm outlet near the base of the unit. Depending on what materials you're cutting (softwoods and MDF are the worst!), dust will get in behind the lower wheel and start to build up in the bearings. It can make a real mess of the lower blade guides as well - that's the only gripe I have with these, although you could always replace them with rubber-sealed bearings... :wink:

I've not used 'cool blocks'. If you wanted to fit them to your saw, it's a personal choice; I doubt they'll have any effect on performance unless you wanted to use a 1/8" wide blade (teeth on these would get destroyed by steel guides!). They might be a quieter than bearings when the saw is cutting; bearings can squeal a bit when the blade runs against them. :)
 
Thanks guys I think im goinf to to opt for the SIP machine although this doesnt come with a base stand I'll have a go at making one out of some mdf.. Any advice on this e.g. would it be safe if put on casters so its portable .. only got a relatively small shed for a workshop or would that affect things??
 
Making your own base cabinet is definitely the way to go, although I personally think that 18mm ply would be the better choice over MDF, if you can afford it. It doesn't have to be pretty; even shuttering ply would do.

Here's the simple one I made for mine a while back. This saw is a good 70kg in weight; I made the mistake of going for 12mm ply when 18mm would've been better. You can also see how I've strengthened the top by adding joists below and how the lower area is used for storing bandsaw blades and things.

The mobile base came from Rutlands. They no longer appear to stock the one I have. They do have this one though, which I think is much better anyway. I've got one on my planer thicknesser and can vouch for it. :)

You could, of course, use castors. Unless you fit them to an 'outrigger' around the base of the cabinet, you'll need to take their height in to account when you size the dimensions for your unit. I was aiming for a 1m table height with mine, which would've suited me, but I made it a little too tall for ripping. :oops: :)
 

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