Ice Box construction - stitch and glue - edges and corners

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Sir Percy

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Hi all,
I'm going to be making an ice box, using this design http://www.westsystem.com/ss/building-an-efficient-icebox-2/ which calls for stitch-and-glue construction to join the thin (9mm) ply walls. Sounds straightforward, but I was wondering how to finish off the outer edges and corners on the external box. Just a bit of sanding off maybe? But then I was thinking it might look better and be sturdier to slightly overlap one edge and fit some beading?
What do you think?
Cheers!
 
The beading would provide a grip to make lifting the lid easier, but surely the knowledge that it contains ice cold beer should provide all necessary motivation to get the lid opened without beading?
 
If I were making that, I'd cover the whole thing in black Tolex and fit flight-case corners & hardware to it... but that's just me.
 
your using ply for interior? Thats going to need a WHOLE lot of waterproofing

Get some pond liner off cuts from your local aquatic store and make it properly waterproof.
Lid? hey, who cares, theres beer in there.
 
You could just run a small round over bit (say 2mm) in a router around the edges, that would look neater than dubbing them over with 80 grit.

It says stitch and glue construction, but is that the best plan given it's all straight and 90 degrees joins rather than the compound curves of a dinghy? For 9mm ply you could use the smallest size biscuits, if you don't have a biscuit jointer then a few brads or staples would do just as well, do it in sections and cramps would work with no fasteners. You only have to keep the thing together until the epoxy cures.

Good luck!
 
Sir Percy":2d9hp792 said:
I was wondering how to finish off the outer edges and corners on the external box. Just a bit of sanding off maybe?
Isn't this covered in the section Preparing for finishing lower down, or do you want to use a different method because your icebox doesn't need to be waterproof on the outside?

I don't think you need to worry about sturdiness if you follow the guide otherwise, the epoxy fillets alone make the corners very strong.
 
Thanks all.

custard":8kyoobza said:
The beading would provide a grip to make lifting the lid easier, but surely the knowledge that it contains ice cold beer should provide all necessary motivation to get the lid opened without beading?
Yeah, that's a solution looking for a problem!
sunnybob":8kyoobza said:
your using ply for interior? Thats going to need a WHOLE lot of waterproofing
yep, that's the epoxy
custard":8kyoobza said:
You could just run a small round over bit (say 2mm) in a router around the edges, that would look neater than dubbing them over with 80 grit.

It says stitch and glue construction, but is that the best plan given it's all straight and 90 degrees joins rather than the compound curves of a dinghy? For 9mm ply you could use the smallest size biscuits, if you don't have a biscuit jointer then a few brads or staples would do just as well, do it in sections and cramps would work with no fasteners. You only have to keep the thing together until the epoxy cures.

Good luck!
No router, or biscuit jointer. Will go for 'tacking', hadn't thought of just doing it in sections, thanks.
ED65":8kyoobza said:
Isn't this covered in the section Preparing for finishing lower down, or do you want to use a different method because your icebox doesn't need to be waterproof on the outside?

I don't think you need to worry about sturdiness if you follow the guide otherwise, the epoxy fillets alone make the corners very strong.
Just thought it would look a bit 'unfinished', I guess.
 
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