I do not like titebond

[Grahamshed]

I have always used evostick resin w but have just tried a bottle of Titebond. It is so watery, runs all over the place.
Messy stuff
Has anyone used D4 ? is that any better ?

 

[adidat]

titebond is excellent, has your bottle separated?

thinking about it, its quite runny but you really only need the lightest smearing!

adidat

 

[Grahamshed]

you really only need the lightest smearing!

adidat

I will try that but the bottle says to use a heavy spread. I wouldn't say my use was 'heavy'. I used the same amount as I would resin w but it was running off the wood while I was assembling some biscuit joints and really splurged out when I clamped them

 

[adidat]

do some tests maybe but i seem to remember a small amount working very well, also means less glue to clean off your clamps :lol:

adidat

 

[Dodge]

Rule of thumb - Glue oozing out when you cramp up means far too much glue used - Just a few beads of glue appearing on the joint line is ok.

regarding Titebond - I use it all the time with excellent results and have never had a glue failure.

 

[Dodge]

Oh and remember to put a post it note over any glued joint to prevent it coming in contact with the steel of a clamp - otherwise you end up with those awful purple stains.

You could just use scrap paper but I find post it notes stay in place!

 

[Mr Ed]

I don't like it either, the dark glueline from TB3 has caused me major problems on a couple of pale timber jobs. I've gone back to good old Evostik Resin W, which dries clear and is strong as anything. No more Titebond for me.

 

[andersonec]

Graham, D4 is just industrial version of D3, worktop manufacturers and the like use it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaHhEeG0 ... el&list=UL

Andy

 

[Phil Pascoe]

D4 is totally waterproof, D3 isn't. Everbuild D4 is a bit thin, but you get used to it. It's brilliant stuff. Resin W is good, but expensive for what it is.

 

[woodbloke]

D4 is totally waterproof, D3 isn't. Everbuild D4 is a bit thin, but you get used to it. It's brilliant stuff. Resin W is good, but expensive for what it is.

Everbuild D4 is excellent stuff...I pay less than a fiver a litre - Rob

 

[devonwoody]

I use titebond 3 and it does ouze out on my strip projects but I wipe it off with a wet cloth immediately and never seem to be troubled. ( If any laying around after set I clean up with a chisel within 6 hours and it removes easily.

 

[hopester101]

Bit of a noob here but is No More Nails interior rubbish then? Or is Titebond etc more for fine work?

I make toy wooden castles/ forts and use NMN for that as I overpaint (usually) and its great? Its always the wood that gives way before the actual glue does.

Yeah go on, rip me to shreds

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Rob, where do you get D4 that cheap - I presume you buy bulk?

 

[Setch]

I've used titebond original for bookmatched centre joints in maple, with invisible glue lines - IMO if you're getting a dark line you need to prep your joints better. No experience with II or III, as they're not recommended for what I do (mostly musical instrument work).

 

[Harbo]

Not as cheap as Rob's but Toolstation sell it.

Rod

 

[Mr Ed]

I've used titebond original for bookmatched centre joints in maple, with invisible glue lines - IMO if you're getting a dark line you need to prep your joints better. No experience with II or III, as they're not recommended for what I do (mostly musical instrument work).

TB3 is light brown when wet and dries to leave a darkish brown glueline, thanks for the tip about preparing the joints better though.