How to trim thin shape with router

[mind_the_goat]

Hi
I'm trying to make a pair of surfboard hooks to hang the board on the wall. I have cut a hook shaped template in MDF and the plan was to trim the actual wood roughly to shape and use the template with a bearing guided router bit. However I realise there will no significant surface to support the router as the hook is only about an inch wide. Also tricky to clamp the template to the wood, and the whole thing to the bench. I don't have a router table but I was tempted to flip the router upside down and run the work piece past the cutter, then I decided I'd like to keep my fingers.
Thinking it might be better to start with a full size piece of wood, tack the template to it and slowly cut the full shape with the router, using more mdf to support the base, but then the template would need to be nearly as thick as the cutter in order to allow for a series of shallow cuts into the wood surface.

How would others approach this ?

 

[marcros]

What about making a router table. A piece of mdf with a hole in. Use the base plate fixing holes to secure it, and something convenient to hold it up- workmate, couple of concrete blocks, depending on what you have.

Then bearing guided bit in the router, the bearing at the height of the mdf template. The table just gives you a bit more working area.

 

[custard]

It's a tricky one routing small components like this, to be honest if you only need two I'd be tempted to cut them both by hand (or however you cut the template), then stick them together with double sided tape and use a file or rasp to ensure they're both identical.

 

[AndyT]

If you really don't want to make it by hand (which would be quicker) I think you need a pair of templates, each broad enough to support the router, one for the left and one for the right hand edge. Use one, then the other. You will probably need some double sided tape, dabs of hot melt glue, or a few carefully positioned pins to hold the template in the right position on the job.

 

[ColeyS1]

Screw quite a large piece of timber to the base of the router- on that, screw a wooden border all the way around the thickness of the workpiece you want to trim. In effect you're making stabilisers for the router. Providing the workpiece is secured to your bench somehow (temporary screw or glue) you can go as small as you like
I made a over engineered version on my legoman project but screwing wood on the bottom would be just as effective.
Coley

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[mind_the_goat]

@Andy. Doing each side separately might work. I could use the existing template but keep both the hook attached to it's parent plank using hot melt, with a matching sheet of MDF to bring up the height, so I would have a platform for the router.
@Custard. I used a jigsaw to get the basic shape then sanded it to the outline. Would have used my belt sander on the outside curves but when I tried to use it it seems it's taking a year out dead, for tax reasons no doubt. The hooks are going to be hardwood (Oak) so wanted to avoid too much hand shaping. Although now 2 people have suggested doing it manually it's not sounding so bad.
@Marcros. I like that idea, I could add a fence to provide more finger protection and I could also use it to round over the corners. As a bonus I'd also have a router table of sorts.
@ColeyS1. I see what you mean, Think that needs a bottom bearing cutter though to avoid cutting into the workbench, I have a top bearing one. Good idea though. I'll keep it in mind.

 

[mind_the_goat]

ok, for no other real reason than 'i wanted to' I built a router 'platform' and have concluded that my original concern was valid. I do still have my fingers but did have to retrieve the work piece from the other side of the workshop and am hoping I can glue it back together.

Apart from my lack of experience I think the problem is that the workpiece is a hook, so the trimming the inside of the hook requires removing fences and relying hands alone to position and move the wood, either with fingers too close to the cutter or by pulling the workpiece onto the cutter. It was find doing the outside and I may still use that to do the other hook, but finish the insides manually.

It was good to try it, I learned something, which is what I'd hoped, and I have a mini router table I can use for other projects.

The other thing that may have come out of this is that the hook broke along the grain, at the narrowest point, it could be that the project won't work because of that weak point. I'll try to take some pictures.

 

[ColeyS1]

Take some pictures cause im finding it a bit confusing trying to figure out what it looks like- like a walking stick top ?
Could you glue the whole thing down onto another piece of wood then saw/plane off the waste after ?

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[mind_the_goat]

This is a drawing, it's in 2 parts, the upright bit that screws to the wall and the hook which is morticed to the upright (the grey shape is the surfboard) . It's the inside of the hook that's a bit tricky to shape on router table. To keep my fingers away I have to pull it on the cutter, I don;t have enough control and it doesn't feel safe. Sticking it something to give a better grip and keep fingers away would work I think.
However I think I have a structural problem, in that by dropping it away from the upright the neck has short grain running left to right, and the width is only about 20mm. I might have to lengthen the upright and make the hook more horizontal.
The photo shows the template and workpiece, the dark mark on the neck, about 60mm from the top, is where it broke. The wood is oak.
I can't afford for the hook to break with the board on it, it's still quite new and has a custom paint job, which is why I thought it might be nice to put it on the wall in the first place. It's my daughters surfboard, she'd kill me if it got damaged, and rightly so.

 

[AndyT]

Is it too late to suggest plywood and a jigsaw?

 

[Racers]

Its a lamination job if I ever saw one. There is no way it would be strong enough the hold a surfboard being that thin.
Solid wood will have the grain running in the wrong direction which ever way you lay it out.

Make a former and laminate several thin strips together with a load of cramps, or you might get away with steam bending.


Pete

 

[pebbles]

Is it something you could do with a Dremelly thing?

 

[mind_the_goat]

@ Andy, it's never too late, this was always going to a learning experience. Some decent ply may well sort it. I do have a feeling that my nearest supplier of decent ply may be in your area.
@ Pete, The surfboard itself is very light, but things sticking out of the wall tend to get bashed. Now, I've never laminated anything before so this maybe my chance, as for steam bending, I've only dabbled with it before, on totally unsuitable wood, so could be a chance to do it properly.
@ Pebbles. Didn't think of that, although on previous experience I'd end up with a scalloped edge.

 

[pebbles]

You could make it a design feature.... waves...

 

[ColeyS1]

Only just been able to see that bottom pic. It looks like you might be trying to trim off too much. You should be able to cut within a couple mm, any more and you'll really start noticing the cutter start biting into the timber. If you're using a flush trim cutter I've got around it in the past by changing the size of the bearing so its not taking off as much. Before I had a selection of bearings i wrapped insulation tape around the bearing to increase the size, then peel off a little untill you get flush
Cut closer, or somehow trim less in stages should look good when it's finished
Coley

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[ColeyS1]

One more thought, have you considered altering the grain direction or simplifying the shape. Some like-

Would be much more forgiving instead of routing those 90 degree corners. You might be able to drill a dowel from behind to strengthen the short grain.
Coley

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[Otto]

If you are still looking for a temporary way to mount a template for router trimming, double sided carpet tape works really well. It's also good for attaching 'stabilisers' to the base of a router. Just clean off the gunk with white spirit when you're done.

 

[mind_the_goat]

Thanks for all the great suggestions, much appreciated, it's great to be able to discuss the options. I'm not going to be able to work on this for a couple of weeks now but I've got time to decide what to try next. I shall update the thread when I have made some progress.

Thanks again.