How to make this dado rail with a router table?

[MrYorke]

I have a customer who would like to match this dado rail for another room in his house. The 2 roundovers I can do, but the reeding I can't. Is there a cutter available for me to copy it on my router table?

More importantly, will it be safe to do? (Probably not)

The dado is 93mm tall, long....whatever you want to call it so the reeds would be pretty high up and I doubt a cutter would be so long

Cheers

 

[Zeddedhed]

It looks symmetrical to me, so I'd do it in two halves/pieces.


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[Graham Orm]

http://woodworker.com/double-bead-2flut ... 51-182.asp Make in 3 parts using this router bit and glue up?

 

[RobinBHM]

Could you do it in 2 sections?, that way the reed will be close to the edge.

 

[custard]

It looks symmetrical to me, so I'd do it in two halves/pieces.

Very smart.

=D>

 

[AndyT]

If it's only a room's worth, you could machine the outside edges with the cutters you have and plane the beads by hand. Most common combination planes come with a suitable beading cutter. You could use a Record 044, 450 or 050. Or a Stanley 50 or 45. Obviously, you'd cut one then reset the fence for the other. It might be cheaper than tooling up with something spindle moulder scale for a one off.

 

[Droogs]

How about getting this fleabay buy it now
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/29154209 ... ue&ff13=80

or use a record 405

 

[dickm]

That's a tricky one - can't see it could be done with a router running in the surface, as the outer reeds have one vertical and one rounded side. A core box bit would do the central hollow, but that's it. Might be feasible to split into two, find a bit that is the right section and run the two halves against the vertical fence, but don't know of an appropriate cutter.
Happened to be using my Record 405 this afternoon so the shapes of the cutter set is fresh in mind - maybe use a rounding cutter for the central reed hollow, then an ovolo for the outer part of the reeding to establish the general shape then a hollow for the crests? Hmmm, not sure...........

 

[MrYorke]

Thanks for the suggestions. Doing it in 2 halves looks to be the best solution for me.

I did find these on Wealdon Tools. Looks interesting.....but is a long shank reeeeally that safe?!

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Abo ... Mould.html

 

[blackrodd]

Why not ring trend, and see what they say, it is , after all their product and they would come up with a cutter or solution.
Would probably, as previous posters have said, be easiest and safest made in two halves, and joined again.
Otherwise, It rather looks to be a spindle moulder job, which would be expensive just to produce the cutters.
Regards Rodders

 

[JSW]

Might be possible to adapt this method.

http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/molding.html

 

[Jelly]

Cut the beading with a beading cutter in a multi-plane, then do the Ovolo at each edge on the router table.

For a relatively small bead like that the beading plane will take a matter of minutes, far quicker than mucking about trying to force a router to do the work of a spindle moulder, or perfectly mating two half-rails when fitting.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Thanks for the suggestions. Doing it in 2 halves looks to be the best solution for me.

I did find these on Wealdon Tools. Looks interesting.....but is a long shank reeeeally that safe?!

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Abo ... Mould.html

If going that route, I would use the 1/2" shank to get maximum rigidity. It looks like the kit for a double reed would be 37.10, inc. VAT (plus postage). Given what it is, that isn't very pricey, but it's not exactly cheap.

The max rigidity thing isn't about safety -- it will be perfectly safe if the collet is in good condition and the cutter set is properly clamped -- it's quality of cut. The cutter will chatter least, giving a cleaner finish.

But in any case I'd make a couple of passes at maximum depth to get the best from it, with really fierce dust extraction to minimse the possibility of burning. The biggest issue is the diameter of the cutter, compared to a spindle -- that will affect the smoothness of finish, and is why I'd do two finish passes. It will also probably mean you get more vibration on the RT (multiple shallow passes will limit this).

One other observation: will it be a long piece of stock? I occasionally make up stuff for the house, and even with a double garage, roller stands and the RT in the middle, long stock is a nuisance. I've ended up with stuff hanging out of the back door (9"drop down to the concrete outside), going through on a diagonal. For dado here , I'd want the longest pieces I could get, to minimise joins in straight runs.

Finally, if they want it in deal, like the picture, you may struggle with tearout. Spindles are better, because the exit angle for the cutter is shallower. In comparison, a router cutter is really tugging at the wood on exit.

It looks do-able but 'interesting'.

 

[Droogs]

I still reckon this is best done with a beading plane of some sort, the one for sale in my previous post is ideal, even if you need to spend half an hour fettling the blade. After all it's not that big an iron on these things, so wont take a lot of time, flatten the back as normal and hone the edge with dowel and emery. The length to be done is for one room. 30m shouldn't talk more than an hour.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I still reckon this is best done with a beading plane of some sort, the one for sale in my previous post is ideal, even if you need to spend half an hour fettling the blade. After all it's not that big an iron on these things, so wont take a lot of time, flatten the back as normal and hone the edge with dowel and emery. The length to be done is for one room. 30m shouldn't talk more than an hour.

I don't disagree. I was just commenting on using the Wealden cutter.

Mind you, it can be really awkward if you're left handed. This I know!

 

[Droogs]

hi Erik, wasn't getting at you. Just seems to me for a one off job using the tailed apprentice appears to be a lot of faf and expense

 

[Eric The Viking]

I agree, and after 30m even I would probably get the hang of a moulding plane used 'wrong-handed'