A
Anonymous
Guest
Hello again
I thought I'd show a few pictures to describe how I make pegs for draw pegging mortice and tennons.
Ash or oak is best to use. Raw material comes straight from the fire wood pile; these are not as good quality as I'd normally use, the best logs off this batch were already used, but these will suffice as illustration purposes. Ideally straight, clean grain, no knots, splits, rotten bits etc, best you can precure!!
Here I've marked out the log end, I generally go by eye. I try to split into 2 pieces of equal mass, your more likely to avoid the split running to one side
First split under way. I use a home made mallet, i re use the handle and replace the head from time to time from the wood pile
Next I start to roughly square up the split pieces with the axe (extremley sharp) forming a gradual taper
Then chamfer the edges with the axe to make octagonal shape.
Test fit in a hole the same size your using, adjust with a knife, you could use a spoke shave, draw knife, block plane etc, knife is quick
Finally a close up of the sharpened last inch or so, you need the small starting size so it goes through all parts of the joint without binding, before it starts the wedging action.
Hope this helps, cheers Jonathan
I thought I'd show a few pictures to describe how I make pegs for draw pegging mortice and tennons.
Ash or oak is best to use. Raw material comes straight from the fire wood pile; these are not as good quality as I'd normally use, the best logs off this batch were already used, but these will suffice as illustration purposes. Ideally straight, clean grain, no knots, splits, rotten bits etc, best you can precure!!
Here I've marked out the log end, I generally go by eye. I try to split into 2 pieces of equal mass, your more likely to avoid the split running to one side
First split under way. I use a home made mallet, i re use the handle and replace the head from time to time from the wood pile
Next I start to roughly square up the split pieces with the axe (extremley sharp) forming a gradual taper
Then chamfer the edges with the axe to make octagonal shape.
Test fit in a hole the same size your using, adjust with a knife, you could use a spoke shave, draw knife, block plane etc, knife is quick
Finally a close up of the sharpened last inch or so, you need the small starting size so it goes through all parts of the joint without binding, before it starts the wedging action.
Hope this helps, cheers Jonathan