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in fact thinking on if the motor was to burn out i can just get another they free if you keep an eye out for an old washer on the alleys so im not right fussed if i gotta replace it once a year haha
 
There is no easy way to measure wattage.

The physical size of a motor tells very little about the actual power. Especielly not if the RPM is unknown.

Around here one can find any number of secondhand fully enclosed and safe industrial motors at scrap yards and flea markets and advertised online. Buying one is a bit of a gamble if you don't own a Megger to test it with but I think you should take the gamble with 10-20 pounds.
Just make sure that the motor is adapted for single phase if that is all you have.

I recently paid 65 euros for an 8kW 2900RPM industrial three phase motor in excellent condition. Smaller motors are cheaper and more plentiful.
 
It isn't that easy. A motor use very little current when running unloaded because it needs very little power to keep itself running.

When you start sawing the current will rise and thereby the power output will rise to meet the demand. As you are feeding your workpiece faster or start sawing a thicker workpiece your motor will draw even more current and increase its power output even more. When you continue to increase the load and hence the power you will sooner or later reach the point where the current flows so faast through the windings that the windings heat up enoug to melt the insulation. The motor short cirquits and you get a puff of smoke from the smoldering insulation and hopefully the fuse goes out before you get an electric shock.

The power output on the motor tag is there to tell you how much power you can take from the motor without using more current than the windings can deal with without overheating.

Go home. Do your homework.
Don't start modifying machinery until you have done your homework and learned how the machines actually work!
 
WOW! you arrogant pineapple this has seriously pineappled me off you actually think i dont know how a motor works? i dont appreciate being spoken to like some sort of reject pineapple this site its for trolls that get their kicks from trying to make people feel stupid by belittling them go throw yourself off somthing very tall thanks :)
 
accyjoiner":trq24yx8 said:
WOW! you arrogant pineapple this has seriously pineappled me off you actually think i dont know how a motor works? i dont appreciate being spoken to like some sort of reject pineapple this site its for trolls that get their kicks from trying to make people feel stupid by belittling them go throw yourself off somthing very tall thanks :)

Got here late, what did I miss?
 
No I wasn't arrogent though my translation from thoughts in Swedish to writing in English may have made the text sound a bit arrogant. In that case I apoligize.

I told you what one of my best friends told me some 15 years ago when I was at that stage of my learning curve.
Go home..... Do your homework...... Come back and do things right when you know what you are doing.

I felt bad at the time but in hindsight I am very thankful for his frankness. I did my homework and I learned!
 
heimlaga":2r0kzi67 said:
No I wasn't arrogent though my translation from thoughts in Swedish to writing in English may have made the text sound a bit arrogant. In that case I apoligize.

I told you what one of my best friends told me some 15 years ago when I was at that stage of my learning curve.
Go home..... Do your homework...... Come back and do things right when you know what you are doing.

I felt bad at the time but in hindsight I am very thankful for his frankness. I did my homework and I learned!

I don't think he's coming back, unless he's gone to learn Swedish?
 
What is it about dado stacks that get a lot of people on fora so worked up? I run a Freud super dado on my Wadkin dimension saw and it is super handy. Much quicker and more flexible in use than using a router and probably cheaper to boot. I also think the safety aspect is sometimes misrepresented. Yes you need to remove the riving knife which in the case of most saws means also removing the guard but a couple of points should be observed about this:

1. As you are making housings or rebates with the dado stack your chances of kick back are going to be negligible as the wood both sides of the blade is still connected

2. The blades are very rarely more than 3/4 of an inch above the table and spend most of their time completely buried in the stock

I'm not saying they are safe or safer than another way but to my mind all these power tools pose different risks to the operator who must have his wits about him at all times. If you are not sensible and don't concentrate on what you are doing you are going to have a bad time, regardless of whether you use a dado stack or a sharp chisel.

PS - having said all of that if I were in the OP's shoes I would not seek to convert that saw into something that takes a dado stack. My Wadkin is a substantial piece of cast iron and is well suited to that use. If I were he and wanted a cheap saw capable of using a dado I'd probably look for an old AGS 10". Great saws and built to last.
 
I wasn't wound up over the dado blade.

I just didn't like his way of sticking to a totally unsuitable motor without accepting basic facts about how an electric motor works.
 
Wuffles":2enfiqwr said:
heimlaga":2enfiqwr said:
No I wasn't arrogent though my translation from thoughts in Swedish to writing in English may have made the text sound a bit arrogant. In that case I apoligize.

I told you what one of my best friends told me some 15 years ago when I was at that stage of my learning curve.
Go home..... Do your homework...... Come back and do things right when you know what you are doing.

I felt bad at the time but in hindsight I am very thankful for his frankness. I did my homework and I learned!

I don't think he's coming back, unless he's gone to learn Swedish?

I sent him a PM with my apologies.
 
heimlaga":2dshx1j6 said:
Wuffles":2dshx1j6 said:
heimlaga":2dshx1j6 said:
No I wasn't arrogent though my translation from thoughts in Swedish to writing in English may have made the text sound a bit arrogant. In that case I apoligize.

I told you what one of my best friends told me some 15 years ago when I was at that stage of my learning curve.
Go home..... Do your homework...... Come back and do things right when you know what you are doing.

I felt bad at the time but in hindsight I am very thankful for his frankness. I did my homework and I learned!

I don't think he's coming back, unless he's gone to learn Swedish?

I sent him a PM with my apologies.

Wasting your time. He's the one needing to apologise in my opinion.

Well done for being the bigger man.
 
heimlaga":39hmhpxn said:
I wasn't wound up over the dado blade.

I just didn't like his way of sticking to a totally unsuitable motor without accepting basic facts about how an electric motor works.
I know. That was a general observation and not pointed at you (just search for the last few threads on the topic in this forum and you'll see what I mean). I also advised against said "upgrade". I hope the OP does get what he is looking for without putting himself at unnecessary risk of injury. If you're still reading please respond to let us know how you get on.
 
Heimlaga,

Don't get concerned, your posts are always good and provide sensible views. There is nothing wrong with your English it always is accurate and indistinguishable from the rest of us.
You are a fine member of this forum's community so carry on as you have always done

From his first post he was talking ignorant rubbish.
Trouble is today, so many people don't know what they don't know.
 
memzey":1xlrtk8v said:
What is it about dado stacks that get a lot of people on fora so worked up? I run a Freud super dado on my Wadkin dimension saw and it is super handy. Much quicker and more flexible in use than using a router and probably cheaper to boot. I also think the safety aspect is sometimes misrepresented. Yes you need to remove the riving knife which in the case of most saws means also removing the guard but a couple of points should be observed about this:

1. As you are making housings or rebates with the dado stack your chances of kick back are going to be negligible as the wood both sides of the blade is still connected

2. The blades are very rarely more than 3/4 of an inch above the table and spend most of their time completely buried in the stock

I'm not saying they are safe or safer than another way but to my mind all these power tools pose different risks to the operator who must have his wits about him at all times. If you are not sensible and don't concentrate on what you are doing you are going to have a bad time, regardless of whether you use a dado stack or a sharp chisel.

PS - having said all of that if I were in the OP's shoes I would not seek to convert that saw into something that takes a dado stack. My Wadkin is a substantial piece of cast iron and is well suited to that use. If I were he and wanted a cheap saw capable of using a dado I'd probably look for an old AGS 10". Great saws and built to last.

In a machine like yours there is nothing wrong with ' stacks
In saws most of us have the saw is an innapropriate design to start with.
Horse for courses
 
Yes you are correct of course. A DS is fine in an appropriate machine and with due care and attention shown by the operator.
 

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