Help with scribe / filler strip please!

[Prizen]

Hi all

I am building a chest of drawers in a bedroom alcove. It is a three drawer unit, with beaded face frames. I have glued on the face frames to the carcass, perhaps prematurely as I now need a filler strip to put between the edge of each (beaded) stile, and the adjacent wall.

Question is, should I:
i) just butt the filler flush with the stiles, or
ii) recess the filler strips a a few inches back, toward the back wall (and also build out the cabinet sides flush by putting fillers directly behind the protruding face frame stiles? For the former, I would be worried about the joint being visible which would look poor, but recessing the filler strip, not sure if that would look good. Hope you know what I mean, see attached sketch

 

[Bingy man]

Imo flush with the edge of the wall would be a better looking job but it will depend on how wide the gap is between the wall and filler. I had a similar issue when fitting a kitchen recently. The integrated fridge freezer went into a pre built unit and the end panel was the fitted to the outside. As the unit was in a corner the existing 90deg corner was not plumb. It touched the top and bottom of the wall but not in the middle. My solution was to use toupret filler and make a really good job of filling it as deep as possible allowing it to dry and then repeat but over filling it . Allowed to dry again and then having masked the filler to protect it gently sanded it flat . 2 coats of emulsion and the repair was invisible. Your 2nd option of setting the filler back an inch or so will also work as any gaps down the sides could be hidden with 1/4” quadrant or angle bead . All comes down to how it looks overall in the room your fitting the chest of draws .

 

[Bingy man]

Will try to find pics of my situation

 

[Bingy man]

These

 

[Doug71]

I guess it depends on how built in you want it to look?
If you keep the fillets flush with the front of the stiles you could take a vee off where the stile and fillet meet to show off the joint rather than hiding it. Alternatively you could put the same bead on the edge of the fillets where they butt up to the stiles, that is a traditional way of hiding joints.
If you don't go with the flush front I would just tuck the fillets behind the stiles, you won't have to fit them as accurately then.

 

[Bingy man]

These

The area in question is the r/h/side -sorry but not got a better pic but it left a 1/4” curved gap which was almost top to bottom approx 8ft long and almost 1/2” in the centre

 

[Prizen]

Thanks guys, maybe a chamfer on the edge of each stile, then another chamfer on the fillet strip to create that V look? I guess having everything in the same plane is a better look. Although the plan view I provided doesn't show it, for the bottom (or toekick area) I guess I could also do the same thing? Create the V joint with the bottom fillet strip flush with the face frame. The unit doesn't really need a traditional (set back) toe-kick
Edit: Gap from stile to wall is 5cm each side