Hammering square posts in square.

[Fat ferret]

The best quality posts I can get are sawn larch 3"x3" but have had problems in the past with them twisting as they are hammered in. It's for post and rail fencing so obviously they need to be square to the fence so the rails can be hammered on. Don't want to dig holes and concrete, 25 to do.

Any ideas. I have some.

 

[Sailormantom]

You can get a device for this which is basically square metal ring on the end of an iron bar which fits over the post and you get an assistant to hold it to stop the twisting while you drive the post in. Don't know what they are called but they are very effective and can be used on had round posts as well with the help of a wedge.

Try searching the hire shops and fencing tool suppliers

 

[Beau]

Clamp a long section of sturdy timber to the side of the post and have someone hold it square while you bash it in. You do need a good strong clamp like a heavy duty G clamp

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hire a post hole borer.

 

[Fat ferret]

Forgot to mention I am by myself, kinda important. Think I need one of these.

http://www.hodgefencing.co.uk/shop/tools.php

Rang the company but they have them made up and won't post them. Unless anyone can recommend another source of square post drivers, I have looked and there aren't any this side of the pond, only round ones which don't help control twist, then I will buy a bit of box section and get fabricator to weld on handles.

 

[Fat ferret]

Fourth on the list.

Post hole auger might be ok but for 25 posts doesn't seem worth it.

 

[Bm101]

I used to work for a drystone walling and fencing company years ago. Doesn't make me an expert by any means but I have put up a lot of fences. Personally I think the steel spikes you hammer in can work in the right ground (stone free compacted dry soil with a low water table), but in truth I wouldn't use them personally. Hit a rock and they kick out at a skew. I don't really think there's a better alternative to cementing posts. If you're willing to pay a little more postcrete is easiest. Fill your hole with water and just pour it in. No mixing and it sets really fast.
You can make a fencing spade in a few minutes if you have an old spade and a grinder, just cut the blade down.
If you fill the bottoms of the holes with a little gravel this will help channel water away and if you can dig the holes so the bottom is a little wider than the top and shoulder the concrete round the post your fence will last longer.
I've seen people use sand in bags round the post as well before to easily replacement in years to come. You just knock the top inch of cement off and wiggle it out. (Apparently...) Think you can buy them.

If you set your first post get it spot on and let cement go off. Then get a builders brick line and set your last post as square as possible using the string to get it faced right. When it's set attach the line across the face of this post as well. You can set several lines to aid accuracy. Wack the rest of your posts in flush faced to the line with a level.

I've often found posts and panels decay at different rates so I tend to use arris brackets. I've repaired a few fences by fixing new brackets to old but good panels and replacing just the posts.
I know you don't want to dig but it's one of those jobs that pays back preparation in ...spades.

 

[timber]

I used to work for a drystone walling and fencing company years ago. Doesn't make me an expert by any means but I have put up a lot of fences. Personally I think the steel spikes you hammer in can work in the right ground (stone free compacted dry soil with a low water table), but in truth I wouldn't use them personally. Hit a rock and they kick out at a skew. I don't really think there's a better alternative to cementing posts. If you're willing to pay a little more postcrete is easiest. Fill your hole with water and just purchased it in. No mixing and it sets really fast.
You can make a fencing spade in a few minutes if you have an old spade and a grinder, just cut the blade down.
If you fill the bottoms of the holes with a little gravel this will help channel water away and if you can dig the holes so the bottom is a little wider than the top and shoulder the concrete round the post your fence will last longer.
I've seen people use sand in bags round the post as well before to easily replacement in years to come. You just knock the top inch of cement off and wiggle it out. (Apparently...) Think you can buy them.

If you set your first post get it spot on and let cement go off. Then get a builders brick line and set your last post as square as possible using the string to get it faced right. When it's set attach the line across the face of this post as well. You can set several lines to aid accuracy. Wack the rest of your posts in flush faced to the line with a level.

I've often found posts and panels decay at different rates so I tend to use arris brackets. I've repaired a few fences by fixing new brackets to old but good panels and replacing just the posts.
I know you don't want to dig but it's one of those jobs that pays back preparation in ...spades.

I agree with BM101
That is the way to do it. The best of luck if you try any other way. If you try to drive them in and it works then your soil and subsoil must be very soft.
Timber

 

[petermillard]

+1 to the above. I don't do much fencing but had half a dozen posts and panels to replace last year, so bought myself a post hole digger - makes a world of difference! Postcrete (from Wickes) set very fast and has been solid ever since. Mind you, with 25 to do I'd want something with an engine - they're not much more than double the price of that square post driver, and I bet you could get at least half your money back when you're finished with it.

Pete

 

[Bm101]

Drivers excel at driving posts into soft ground but they work best on round timber that hasn't been machined. Pine posts in the round that are bought 'sharpened' for want of a better term. Great for agricultural, post and wire or hurdle types of fencing. Or of course if that's the type of fence you want. You might find squared timber posts will splinter although I've never used a square one. Also unless you're strong and fit, they are a PITA to use on your own. We'd crack a post into the ground with a sledge/fencing mallet, then use the driver.They're heavy or at least a good one will be. You need to lift it over the stake then lift and drop, lift and drop, over and over again. I used to find it hard going when I was 20, wouldn't fancy it much these days I gotta say. It'd be hard going on your own. And as the day goes on you get tired and the work gets harder each time.

Honestly? The best 2 tools I ever used for fencing holes were a length of thick HEAVY steel shaft about my height with a small spade shaped blade welded on and a 'pair of spoons' as Peter has posted in the link above. You let the weight of the first do the digging and use the spoons to lift out spoil. There's a spear and jackson one at Machine mart for a little cheaper: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/spear-a ... GwodKXYHYg
The height of both tools means you don't need to bend your back.
The Irish have it right on digging, traditionally your spade is measured by your height.

Get those two tools and in the right ground you could knock out the holes in a slow but even day of labour on the saturday no worries.
Use postcrete and you'll have the posts in 2 hours, hour for a long cooked breakfast on Sunday, the rest of the work done by close of play Sunday. Happy days and down to the pub for a pint or two.

Just for the sake of interest:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4QdsRDiYyQ

 

[RogerBoyle]

Years ago we used to use a rabbiting spade, a telegraph spoon and a long spike and a tamper
use the rabbiting spade to dig the hole the spoon to clear the hole and the spike to dislodge rocks etc

We would then put the post in bang in some packing wood to hold it all in place and then backfill with all the dirt that you dug out tamping it down in stages Far easier than using a post driver

 

[AJB Temple]

A tale of two fences. Alongside a footpath our neighbour has erected about 500m, of post and rail with tanalised softwood posts hammered into the ground, which is clay and can get quite wet. On the other side of the footpath we have erected chestnut post and rail. Used a digger to bore post holes to 800mm and set them with concrete. His have been in a year and you can rock them easily in the ground and a good push will have some of the posts leaning right over, as the pony in his field has discovered.... You would need a tank to shift ours.

You have only got to do 25. Do it right. Once.