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Groove Router Bit... What size?

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matt

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Making some panelled doors using 6mm Ash veneered ply. Plan to buy a groove routing bit; however, cannot decide whether to buy a straight 6mm kerf bit or go for something slightly wider (eg. 6.4mm)?

Would be grateful for some feedback and advice.

Cheers
 

ike

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Maybe a 1/4" to give a little clearance for assembly and movement? I use one of these <www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/TR6||@cRouter%20Cutter%20Sets@b|0|user|1,0,0,1|34|> (same but mines from Jesada), to give me a good range of slot widths in one cutter.

Ike
 

AndyBoyd

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I too use the CMT sets and find you can really tune the groove to be an exact fit, a little pricey but well worth it.
 

Waka

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Matt

If thepanel you wish to insert is 6mm then the ideal cutter will be a 6.4mm, this will give a nice snug fit.
 

tim

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Be wary though because so many panels are bigger than stated - ie you may order 6mm but they might send 6.25 instead.

I have 3 two flute straight cutters from Wealden at 6, 6.4 and 7mm. I find that on larger panels especially in birch ply, 6.4mm doesn't give enough wiggle room and its a real bore if you are using glue. DAMHIKT!

You will really struggle using the router handheld with those Rutland cutters. Aside from the danger, it'll be really easy to introduce a tilt which will knacker the groove. You could use straight cutters and two fences, but its awkward. It may well be time to invest in a table - you don't have to spend a fortune and its not so tricky to make your own.


Cheers

Tim
 

Jarviser

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The other advantage of using a home made table is that if the groove is too narrow, say by using a 6mm bit, if you have a micro adjust fence you can tweak it away from the cutter and take another pass right to left. This fence of mine uses a M6 thread which is 1mm per turn of the screws. I often use a 4mm bit to make grooves for 6mm ply sliding lids. You would not do that with a hand-held.
 

ike

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As you don't have a router table, another method is to cut the panel grooves on the sawbench. Means removing the crown guard though, and setting the riving knife below the blade crown. I found getting accuracy was tricky on my contractor saw, but I imagine it's dead easy on a more solid, accurate saw.

Ike
 
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