Grinding angle for gouges ?

[jim_hanna]

This is NOT a sharpening query, I’m not asking about how to grind the chisels, more a query about what grinding angle would be usual.

I’ve bought a set of out-cannel gouges, just to see if I might cut finger pulls etc by hand instead of all the noise and dust of a router.
They were very cheap, £ 19.95 on sale from Rutlands for a set of seven, so not a huge investment if I don’t use them much.

As supplied they’re a funny mix of grinding angle. Four at about 30 degrees and three of them at more than 50 degrees. There’s no pattern to this with the second smallest and second largest at 52 degrees.
Most of what I’ve read about sharpening gouges recommends a small grinding angle at 20 degrees but all this advice seems aimed at carvers. Would carpenter’s gouges normally have such a large grinding angle?

Jim

 

[Jacob]

30º at the edge. One bevel best or slightly rounded under but not too far. Hollow grind no good at all.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Out-cannel gouges are usually used with a mallet in much the same way as general bench chisels, so similar grind and hone angles (grind at about 25 degrees, hone at about 30) are about right. You're quite right that carvers often use much shallower angles, but usually only when they're carving milder woods; when working harder timbers, they normally have to resort to higher bevel angles.

In passing, in-cannel gouges are a little different in that they're usually used for paring; the longer ones by patternmakers, and the shorter (bench chisel length) ones by joiners to 'scribe' mouldings to fit each other at angles. For this (non-mallet, generally) work, shallower grinding and honing angles may be more appropriate - say grind at 20 degrees and hone at 23-25 or so.

 

[Scouse]

Out-cannel gouges are usually used with a mallet...

Hmm... a bit of a sweeping statement there, use with a mallet depends upon a number of factors not just "usually".

 

[SpinDoctor]

Bevel angle in this case may have more to do with the wood you're going to work. Pine will allow you to get away with 20 degrees whereas oak will need something like 30 degrees. It also depends on the steel quality. It sounds like they maybe quite cheap in quality (if you bought them new) so I'd suspect you'll need a steeper angle to compensate for lower quality steel...

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Out-cannel gouges are usually used with a mallet...

Hmm... a bit of a sweeping statement there, use with a mallet depends upon a number of factors not just "usually".

The statement was based on personal experience; whenever I use an out-cannel gouge, I seem to need to use a mallet, albeit sometimes a small one. I'm talking about firmer gouges here, not the carving variety.

I don't often have need of an in-cannel gouge, but there is a reason that they're often called 'paring gouges'.

 

[Scouse]

Out-cannel gouges are usually used with a mallet...

Hmm... a bit of a sweeping statement there, use with a mallet depends upon a number of factors not just "usually".

The statement was based on personal experience; whenever I use an out-cannel gouge, I seem to need to use a mallet, albeit sometimes a small one. I'm talking about firmer gouges here, not the carving variety.

Cheers for the clarification.

 

[J_SAMa]

I use a 25 degree bevel + 5 degree back bevel. Why? That's how my gouges came... Didn't try to remove it. It must be there for a reason if they manufacture put it there. Someone who knows a little more should be able to explain.