Glue overload! Which glue do I need?

[stubtoe]

Hi,

I'm about to start work on building my first woodworking bench and have decided to base it on the bob and dave design that I found in the following forum post https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/what-could-u-make-a-workbench-out-of-for-little-t45094.html

The parts list on the plan lists 'Elmers glue' as what they are using to create the laminated (from 2 x 4s) bench top. As far as I can tell this seems to be a US make of glue, so what equivalent UK glue do I need to be using to glue together the 2 x 4s to create the laminated bench top? I had a look on the Axminster website but there were so many different types I don't know where to start!! :?

Any help much appreciated.

Jonny

P.S. Will wood glue really 'stick' together 2 x 4s well enough to create a bench top without the individual pieces shearing away from each other when I start chiselling pieces on top???

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Elmers glue is a either a PVA (polyinyl acetate) or an aliphatic resin, I don't recall which. Pick either type from your local DIY place or from Axminster, eg, the Evostik Resin W as seen at the attached link and you'll be buying the equivalent type of adhesive. Slainte.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/evo-stik-evo ... prod22030/

 

[barkwindjammer]

After having a wee bit of a learning curve regarding glue types I can recommend 'Gorilla glue' or probably any available Polyurethane (PU) glue, this stuff is mega strong once it grabs (20 mins and you can say its good to go), it foams and fills gaps, after half an hour you can remove the 'over glue' with a chisel or scraper, once glued you aint gonna break the joint.

 

[paultnl]

Elmer's standard wood glue is PVA http://www.elmers.com/msds/me700_d.htm
any PVA should be more than strong enough for your application.

Gorilla glue is very good but probably overkill for this job.

 

[Jonzjob]

PU glue? Never had any godd results with it! Buy a pint bottle, use it a couple of times, put the lid on correctly and finish up with a plastic club! Solid as a rock!

As for the gluing, sticking two bits together? After a while it has gone brown and seperated and i was not using chepo carp?

To put a bench together I would use as bigger screws that don't come out of the other side of the wood...

 

[Lord Kitchener]

I would use PVA for this, just the striaghtforward stuff you can buy is a little bucket. I decant mine into an empty washing up liquid bottle, and apply it directly with that, quick and clean.

PVA correctly used is as strong, if not stronger, than the wood itself. No point in being any stronger than that.

 

[woodbloke]

Plenty of good PVA type glues around on the market...I'd look for a D3 glue (it'll say on the bottle) which is then reasonably water resistent. Also make sure that you don't go past the 'open time' (usually around 10-15mins in warmer weather) which is the time window that you have to get the glue on and the job into cramps - Rob

 

[Saint Simon]

I am a Titebond addict and I think the slow grab time of their No.III gives you time to get things where you really want them to be, slightly reducing the final assembly panic.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/titebond-tit ... prod29225/

If you need things grabbed quickly then I think their original is the glue for the job.
Just my opinion,
Simon

 

[stubtoe]

Thanks guys for the informative responses.

The 15 minute window has me a bit worried when I come to make my laminated workbench top... Oh well, only one way to learn these things!

 

[jasonB]

Do it in two halves and then join the halves together, will save you having to rush the glueup.

I'm a I'm a titebond II man but any half decent PVA will be more than upto the job.

J

 

[jimi43]

I'm not wishing to get into another glue argument but in my opinion, Gorilla Glue is absolute hyped up rubbish.

PVA or AR are fine. If it were me, I'd go for Titebond Original simply because every single (inside) thing that I have stuck with it has stayed that way.....which is good enough for me.

But if you want to get into organic chemistry there are plenty of other "more detailed" threads on the forum.

Jim

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

I'm not a fan of Gorilla Glue either, used it once... never again. I'm a Titebond II kind of guy, but III may be better with the longer open time. If I'm not using Titebond I use a D4 PVA. HTH.

Cheers _Dan

 

[barkwindjammer]

PU glue? Never had any godd results with it! Buy a pint bottle, use it a couple of times, put the lid on correctly and finish up with a plastic club! Solid as a rock!
damp chateau
.

 

[Jonzjob]

No, not really

Definately not damp :mrgreen:

 

[barkwindjammer]

Tres humiditè

 

[Jonzjob]

Non, pas de humidité.

 

[jimi43]

That is one COOL workshop! Love the roof John!!! 8) =D>

Jim

 

[stubtoe]

I'm not sure if things are clearer or more confused now!

Think I'll start with PVA for cheap ness/keeping things simple as I can always experiment with the posher glues in time.

 

[jimi43]

I'm not sure if things are clearer or more confused now!

Think I'll start with PVA for cheap ness/keeping things simple as I can always experiment with the posher glues in time.

This man will go far! =D>

Jim

 

[Jonzjob]

PVA is brilliant stuff in my book.. Mind you I have no idea as to how anyone could get high by sniffing it, but I never was into glue sniffing :? :?

Most of the roofs around here are like my workshop Jim. Low pitch and very effective. It is quite cool because I have put a very expensive silver insulation under it 8) 8) Double galzed glass too..