Glue at lower temperatures

[homeinthecity]

I’ve been looking for some definitive advice on gluing at low temperatures (c. 3 degrees C to c. 10 degrees C).

When I’ve tried it towards the bottom end of that range the glue takes a long time to dry, but the joints don’t seem any weaker afterwards.

I’ve been using Gorilla Wood Glue and Titebond 3.

Does anyone have any experience or advice they could share please?

 

[thetyreman]

yes use a heat gun to heat up the joint before gluing up, makes a big difference

 

[homeinthecity]

yes use a heat gun to heat up the joint before gluing up, makes a big difference

Does it reduce the drying time or make the joint stronger? Thanks!

 

[johnnyb]

pva is weakened at the lower range. it becomes chalky. pu seems better. epoxy sets but can take an age( ie glue up can be sticky next day). titebond 3 seems less affected than most though.

 

[thetyreman]

Does it reduce the drying time or make the joint stronger? Thanks!

both, it should reduce drying time a lot.

 

[Ttrees]

Not sure what your shed/workshop is like.
Mine is un-insulated and damp.

I found a consumer grade heat gun no good for the shed, the thermal mass of the timber is far too great for even a wee plug/"dutchman" or the likes.
Those heat guns are pretty much the same rating as a common oil rad, my lights flicker using it, while that doesn't happen with the rad.

Not sure if you plan to bring some stuff inside...
I've had glues go chalky before, thinking it would be alright to bring in a door I was repairing inside
which was 10+, and left for a day beforehand.
That largely failed because I only had the door a foot off the ground, probably woulda been sound
if it were about waist height, maybe not though.

For large things in a shed like mine, a very heavy blanket(s) are the business,
and perhaps if very cold/arger work, worth looking for one which is 2kW rather than those ...safer to touch ones which are 1.5kW.

I think I recall getting around 20 degrees in the tent (in the damp workshop which was prob 3 or 4c)

This table came in handy for smaller stuff which can be taken into the house,
though I found the thin blanket to be no good.
The 2kW rad is even smaller, and is now residing in the shed aswell, as it started weeping a bit.

I've gotten fairly well past 20c, perhaps mid 20's (w/heavy blanket, and 2kw rad) in the house,
and caused a lot of checking and splits, so have learned to keep applying a soaked rag every half hour or so.
The gun is very handy for this craic.

All the best

Tom

 

[homeinthecity]

Not sure what your shed/workshop is like.
Mine is un-insulated and damp.

I found a consumer grade heat gun no good for the shed, the thermal mass of the timber is far too great for even a wee plug/"dutchman" or the likes.
Those heat guns are pretty much the same rating as a common oil rad, my lights flicker using it, while that doesn't happen with the rad.

Not sure if you plan to bring some stuff inside...
I've had glues go chalky before, thinking it would be alright to bring in a door I was repairing inside
which was 10+, and left for a day beforehand.
That largely failed because I only had the door a foot off the ground, probably woulda been sound
if it were about waist height, maybe not though.

For large things in a shed like mine, a very heavy blanket(s) are the business,
and perhaps if very cold/arger work, worth looking for one which is 2kW rather than those ...safer to touch ones which are 1.5kW.

I think I recall getting around 20 degrees in the tent (in the damp workshop which was prob 3 or 4c)
View attachment 152369View attachment 152375
View attachment 152374

This table came in handy for smaller stuff which can be taken into the house,
though I found the thin blanket to be no good.
The 2kW rad is even smaller, and is now residing in the shed aswell, as it started weeping a bit.
View attachment 152372
I've gotten fairly well past 20c, perhaps mid 20's (w/heavy blanket, and 2kw rad) in the house,
and caused a lot of checking and splits, so have learned to keep applying a soaked rag every half hour or so.
The gun is very handy for this craic.
View attachment 152373

All the best

Tom

Thanks Tom, useful advice. My workshop (ex-garage) isn’t insulated and so I’ll give the blankets and radiator approach a go.

 

[pgrbff]

I think urea formaldehyde glues are more tolerant of the lower temperatures. If possible I bring the timber into the house before gluing to warm up.

 

[danst96]

Last winter, i tried gluing up a table at -32 in an uninsulated garage. Needless to say it pretty much fell apart when i picked it up and i moved my operations inside the house.

 

[Sideways]

And when I wanted a decent open time with west epoxy, i put the resin, and the steel tray I was going to mix it in, into the fridge beforehand to pull it down to 4 degrees.

 

[homeinthecity]

I made the mistake of trying to use epoxy resin for the first time over the summer, that didn’t stay liquid long!

And when I wanted a decent open time with west epoxy, i put the resin, and the steel tray I was going to mix it in, into the fridge beforehand to pull it down to 4 degrees.