framing sqaure?

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shim20

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hi, ive got a framing square but its one of these stamped out ones and its not square :lol: , which is usefull, dose anybody know where i can get a high quality one? many thanks
ben
 
shim20":23rvnstp said:
hi, ive got a framing square but its one of these stamped out ones and its not square :lol: , which is usefull, dose anybody know where i can get a high quality one? many thanks
ben

I don't know about high quality: I've got a cheap one from Toolstation. I've checked it and it's square within about 1/2mm at the long end, which is good enough for the sort of rough stuff it gets used for. It was less than a fiver.


 
There's always the option to clamp it between two pieces of timber before draw filing the bad edge if it's a mile out, but they're normally cheap enough to replace or make on site from ply.
 
Get hold of the ends and push / pull until its right, done it a few times with mine after its dropped from a height.

A stanley one would be better quality, should be able to get one from any toolbank outlet or on the net

J
 
I read this tip in an old magazine article. Use a centre punch to slightly spread the metal at the point the two limbs join. towards the outside will make it fractionally more acute and the opposite when punched towards the inside. With each punch it moves only a tiny bit so you have full control. I have never found a new one to be square - like so many cheaper squares on the market. Framing squares are however the easiest to adjust. Veritas used to make a nice clamp-on stock that effectively makes a roofing square work as a try square.
Jon.
 
thanks for all the replys, i will try to ajust it, even though i would rather have a better one, think i might look for an old one
 
jonbikebod":3w35h9nt said:
I read this tip in an old magazine article. Use a centre punch to slightly spread the metal at the point the two limbs join...

I have two old framing squares, nearly 100 years old, the metal is thicker at the join, thinner down the blades. I had to use a ball pein hammer to square them, really getting after it on an iron table. It took a while, but they're square. Then I filed the edges straight because I distorted them slightly when hammering.
 
Before trying to make the square ... square, measure to check that each arm is parallel - if the arms aren't parallel, you either have to decide wether the inside or outside is to be square, or you'll have to MAKE the arm(s) parallel.

BugBear
 
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