Formica / HPL laminate questions

[TheBrick]

Hello all I'm looking for some advice on attaching formica (or other brands) of laminate to MDF. First job is for a built in wardrobe, so doors, a side return and draw fronts. Chosen laminate is from morland-uk

I've done some online research but still have some questions that I'm sure someone will know.

1. What is the opinion on using a backing laminate to even out tension? Seems to be split from what I've read. I was thinking of using 18mm MDF for doors and 12mm for draw fronts. The draw fronts will be attached to a draw carcass so have another 12 mm behind for rigidity. If you use a backing laminate can you apply both at once or do you do one side at a time?

2. Edging. Do you by edging separate or just cut off a strip from your main roll? If so best method to cut off a strip? Small router cutter on supported length of laminate?

3. Impact adhesive vs vacuum press. Pros and cons of each. I do not have a vacuum press but I do have an old mini compressor I've been looking for an excuses / need to convert to a vacuum press.

4. If using a vacuum press how do you stop the sharp edges of the laminate from piercing the vacuum bag? (I was planning on leaving the laminate large and trim off with a flush cut router bit.)


Thanks for any guidance!

 

[petermillard]

Why not use ready-laminated MDF? All you have you worry about then is the edgebanding.

 

[beech1948]

Hi,

I was taught to always use a backing sheet to Formica.

Try the experiement of taking a 3ft x 10 inch wide board and cover one side with Formica...leave for 24hrs and it will visibly start to curl without the backer layer.

 

[custard]

4. If using a vacuum press how do you stop the sharp edges of the laminate from piercing the vacuum bag? (I was planning on leaving the laminate large and trim off with a flush cut router bit.)

There's less risk of punctures but more risk of snapping off the overhanging laminate (or veneer). There's a few options,

1. ensure the veneer or laminate doesn't overhang by more than a couple of mill

2. drape a really thick sheet of plastic over the top which gives a softer radius, or use a caul on top

3. veneer/laminate one side at a time, and then you can place the veneer or laminate side down, obviously you can then have the veneer/laminate overhanging as much as you want. After the glue has set you need to trim it and veneer or laminate the opposite face straight way to prevent warping. Although much slower than vac bagging both faces at once this is a useful technique to have up your sleeve, if I'm vac bag veneering a component that's a very precise size and can't be trimmed I'll sometimes go this route.

Having said all this, with the massive range of ready laminated MDF sheets available, why bother doing it yourself?

 

[TheBrick]

Thanks for the info / replies.

Why not use ready-laminated MDF?

Main reason is the excuse to do something new / learn.

If I go for pre-laminated, does anyone have a recommended supplier? It would only be a couple of sheets so not worth a delivery I would expect. Based @ Ringwood Dorset / Hampshire boarder.

 

[TheBrick]

Bloody auto emoticon. That should be a 'at' symbol.

 

[petermillard]

Thanks for the info / replies...
If I go for pre-laminated, does anyone have a recommended supplier?

Reason I asked was that Morland-uk offer it on their website... And not to take away from the desire to learn, but you could just be making work for yourself.

Cheers, Peter

 

[Stocksy27]

lawcriss will do laminated boards saves loads of time and hassle then just do the edges

 

[TheBrick]

I think you are correct. Definitely making work for myself! I'm having a scout around for some other suppliers as Morland have a 3 sheet minimum. Found one over in Poole but from looking at their website the only accepted colour is not on their list of pre laminated sheets!

 

[TheBrick]

Lawcriss, will check them out thanks.

 

[Adam9453]

Baldwin plastics will do as little as one sheet, check out their website as they also CNC cut and have edge banding equipment. Nice people too

 

[rdesign]

don't use a vacuum bag for laminate!

do the backing first then the edging. we always use to cut the strips off a large sheet using the table saw ( have a board under for zero clearance around the blade) then do the face

attach the laminate using contact adhesive can't remember the name of the product but it was red and we applied it to both surfaces using a cheap 25 quid sip spray gun with a liter cup.

once they are dry to the touch 3 to 5 mins put down dowel sticks on the mdf then lay the laminate on top
remove the middle dowel first then work from the middle out to the edges use a roller or a sanded smooth paddle to make sure their is no bubbles and pressure has been applied to all areas to bond the adhesive.

made hundreds of counter tops and doors using this method .

the pre lam looks like ass on doors because you have to do the edging last and then you have a grey line all around the edge of 1mm to 2mm

make sure you have a good double cut ******* file also

Richard.

 

[TheBrick]

Top info Richard thanks.

Re spray gun, is gravity fed OK or venturi suction from a pot one only?

 

[rdesign]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Siphon ... /203496910

That was the one we used they lasted a few months being used all day everyday. just throw the nossle and cap into a pot of thinners so it doesn't clog up can leave the contact adhesive in the gun for a few days.

if you have a palm trim router makes it easy for trimming to size after sticking down. use soft wax finish on the laminate where the router bearing is going to run to prevent heat marks being left from the bullet bit if your using a bearing cutter not needed just make sure its oiled up and kept clean the contact adhesive overspray on the sides and the laminate dust clogs them up.

Richard