Flat top grooving/slotting circular saw blàde?

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Sachakins

The most wasted of days is one without woodwork
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Hi,
Don't have arbor length for dado stack.
Looking for a 6mm x 10inch/250mm slotting/grooving blade.
Nearest I've found is from CMT, but only 150mm or 180mm diameter.
Small project in the pipeline, where box/finger joints needed, quite a few it turns out.
Question, is there such a beast at 250mm or, would the 180mm be OK on my table saw (ScheppachHS 105)
Ìf so, what would be the max saw blade height it would give?

I've worked it out to maybe to be about 25mm, that would just about do it, but unsure.
Help and guidance appreciated.
 
I think the 180mm should do you but there are 200mm blades around. Available here in Oz anyhow. Try Amazon and ebay. Dado stacks are uasually only 200mm as well. Dont think anyone does a 250mm dado or trenching blade.
Regards
John
 
Some ripping blades are ground with a flat top, but the majority you’ll find are going to be alternate ground. Best thing would be to buy a blade and send it off to a blade sharpening company such as North London Saw and stipulate that you want it ground with a flat top.
 
I had 50 drawers to make using the 1/4 1/4 1/4 method.

on my 10” table saw I used the CMT 160 mm flat top grind blade. You only use a small depth, so 150mm is fine.
it enabled me to channel all 50 drawers sides for corner joints, and the groove for the drawer base in one afternoon. Perfect for the job.
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Sachakins the difference between the depth of cut for a 250mm blade and a 200mm blade is 25mm. If your 250mm blade gives you a 75mm depth of cut the 200mm would be 50mm. Principal is the same if your depth of cut is a little more or less. A 50mm deep finger joint is a pretty thick piece of wood. Even with a sled taking away some depth you still have lots.

Orraloon I have a 10" dado set for my first tablesaw, still have the saw. My SawStop, second saw, only takes an 8" dado blades with the proper cartridge.

Pete
 
I have a DeWalt DT4311 (250mm 3mm kerf flat top ground ripping blade; about £30), and a CMT 180mm 6mm kerf grooving blade (about £50). I presume the reason they don't make a larger (200/250mm) grooving blade is it would overload the saw motor or cause belts to slip etc.
 
I have a DeWalt DT4311 (250mm 3mm kerf flat top ground ripping blade; about £30), and a CMT 180mm 6mm kerf grooving blade (about £50). I presume the reason they don't make a larger (200/250mm) grooving blade is it would overload the saw motor or cause belts to slip etc.

Probably has more to do with the blade brakes your saws usually come with. Heavier blades take a lot more to stop. Most of our saws have no brakes and the belts don't slip. A full dado stack weighs a lot more than the grooving blades and some people dedicate and set up a saw just for dado work.

Pete
 
Sachakins the difference between the depth of cut for a 250mm blade and a 200mm blade is 25mm. If your 250mm blade gives you a 75mm depth of cut the 200mm would be 50mm. Principal is the same if your depth of cut is a little more or less. A 50mm deep finger joint is a pretty thick piece of wood. Even with a sled taking away some depth you still have lots.

Orraloon I have a 10" dado set for my first tablesaw, still have the saw. My SawStop, second saw, only takes an 8" dado blades with the proper cartridge.

Pete
Never knew they came that big. A lot of steel spinning if you go a full width cut. Anyhow never come near needing the full depth on the 8'' yet.
Regards
John
 
I have a dado stack but being lazy I've never got round to getting or making a zero clearance insert for it. When I need to make grooves I just use one of the outer blades from it as its got a flat grind.
 
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