finishing

[gaz1981]

Ive noticed on a lot of people's pics of stuff they have turned they look really glossy and shiny can anyone tell me what stuff they use on the finished product to make them that shinny

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Ive noticed on a lot of people's pics of stuff they have turned they look really glossy and shiny can anyone tell me what stuff they use on the finished product to make them that shinny

Without appearing rude, they use polish!

If you are buying one of the woodturning magazines you will find a wealth of suppliers for finishing products that can give you that high gloss.

Be aware, though, that maintaining a high gloss sometimes is impossible because of oily timbers etc.

Some of the high gloss items take many hours of work to get and to keep!


Regards, Peter.

 

[gaz1981]

What stuff would u recommend to use

 

[gaz1981]

Which magazine would u say to get

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Which magazine would u say to get

May I suggest you call into your local newsagent and browse the shelves?

W.H.Smiths carry several, but visit early in the month or they might be snapped up!

Regards, Peter.

 

[gaz1981]

Ok I will do that do they come out at the start of the month

 

[Lons]

Ok I will do that do they come out at the start of the month

Hi Gaz
Best advice is to google woodturning magazines and there will be websites to give you issue dates, prices, subscriptions, taster articles and even back copies.
Much quicker for you than asking individual questions.

there are also threads on here if you search and I'd suggest a visit to your local library who are likely to have turning books you can borrow.

Cheers
Bob

 

[gaz1981]

Thanks for the reply yeah ill do that ive googled it before but wnd up getting loads of rubbish and stuff that dont make sense really

 

[KimG]

Hi Gaz, Chaz and myself produced a small booklet on this exact subject (you can get it here it explains at least how I go about achieving a glass like finish. Others may differ of course. For some examples of how this process turns out, have a browse through the blog linked below.

 

[Robbo3]

Hi Gaz, Chaz and myself produced a small booklet on this exact subject (you can get it here it explains at least how I go about achieving a glass like finish. Others may differ of course. For some examples of how this process turns out, have a browse through the blog linked below.

Thank you gents. Much appreciated.

 

[gaz1981]

Ok thanks for that ill have a look at it

 

[nicguthrie]

Hey, Kim. My browser has a problem with that link, cuts off at the first space in the pdf name, so I made a "corrected" more compatible version in case anyone can't access it. (all I did was edit the ASCII code of the URL so that no browser could miss the spaces)

Kim+Chas Buffing class

Very nice little guide. I'm looking forward to trying it out when the weather improves

Nic

 

[KimG]

Thanks Nic, yeah spaces can be a nuisance in a URL, I should have been a bit more thorough!

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

finishing can be a bit of a dark art, and can take longer to get right than turning the item in the first place. A good starting point is always to have as few tool marks or sanding scratches as possible. Finishes can amplify these, so if they are noticeable before the finish is applied you can guarantee they will be seen when the finish is on.
I'm currently playing with hand knitted finishes, based on shellac. It involves much more effort than say, spray on lacquers for example, but can still look amazing IMHO.
I'm not turning for profit, so time is unimportant to me.
I do use shop bought finishes on some items, but being an old miser try not to spend money I don't have.

 

[gaz1981]

Yeah thays what I find its never perfect as I want it to be always sanding scratches of little marks and it dose my head in id love to get one of these really shiny finished bowl but cant get it my bowls look good but would like that final touches to make them even better

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

What abrasives are you using? I have used many different types, from the cheap & nasty pound shop stuff right through varying costs. I'm currently using some of the Rhyno-Grip stuff from Richard at The Turners Workshop. Amazing quality and great value for money. The starter pack runs from 80grit to 400grit. £7 for a ½ metre pack of 6 grades. I think I've used about 150mm of each grade so far.
I got told off on here for doing this, but I use a Bob Hamilton trick and scoosh the dust off between each grit with a blow gun. As I'm sanding too, I give the abrasive a rub on my shirt if it looks like clogging.
A cap'n Eddie trick too is to wet sand the final grit with a coat of oil. The dust becomes a slurry which helps fill the small scratches. I've had varying success with that though, because depending on the timber the oil can dry very quickly. I prefer to apply a coat of sanding sealer and cut back. The first coat helps fill the tiny scratches, so when the second coat goes on they're almost invisible.

 

[gaz1981]

Im using a box of mixed. Grit from turners cabbin it was about £13 there is 4 different grits in there I go through all of them and still end up with little scratchs it drives me mad

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

What steps are they in? The rule of thumb I have been told is the next grit grade should be the grit you use plus half that number. e.g. 80 + 40 --> 120; 120 +60 --> 180; and so on and so forth. If you skip a grit you may not get rid of any marks from the previous grit.

 

[gaz1981]

I think its 80 120 240 380 but I aint sure on that one till I go and have a look

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

360 I think. The only difference there is I go to 400. No idea then. Does it happen with every type of wood?