Hi, can someone tell me what finish to put some protection from smears / scratches on MRMDF coated in farrow and Ball paint please. I tried BriWax but it was poop.
Finish for Farrow and Ball on an MRMDF table top
- Thread starter Gary_S
- Start date
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RogerS
Established Member
Mmmm...and now you know why people say that Farrow & Ball is like making love in a canoe.
My suggestion is to repaint using a decent paint like that from Little and Green.
My suggestion is to repaint using a decent paint like that from Little and Green.
Or Johnstones can mix any colour from Little Green or F&B and it is cheaper, covers well plus is hard wearing.
RogerS
Established Member
Well, if they're colour matching is anything like Dulux then it's way off.
I'm not alone in thinking that colour matching isn't all it's cracked up to be.
What do you expect from Dulux, this comes down to colour and the Johnstones F&B colours we last used were close enough not to worry about, ok not good if you are touching up. Colour is very subjective and if you have ever been into digital photography you will have experienced the pain of colour workflow and getting prints to match the Pc screen during editing, paint has similar traits in that we only talk of colour and not hue or saturation. The colour we see depends upon the light we see it in, but more importantly after two or three weeks we actually don't really take much notice, well if you have got it right and not got some lairy pink you cannot overlook.
By the way if you want a good book on colour from a photographic perspective then " Real world Color Management " by Bruce Fraser is a definitive guide.
RogerS
Established Member
My point was that anyone reading your post might have take 'any colour' at face value and assumed the colour match would be perfect. It isn't.
Record now set straight.
Record now set straight.
robgul
Barry Bucknell is my hero
For mixing/colour matching the premium brand (so-called) paints like F&B, LG etc I've found Brewers to be top-notch - with very accurate matching and quality paints.
Fortuntely, I have only waxed the underside in an area that will be covered. I should have made some test blocks.. What kind of clear laquer?
I am a photographer and am well versed in managing colour from camera to screen to print. What I need advice on is a finish that will help mitigate the issues of using F&B which is as bad a s most to be honest. Spraying MDF is not what I do, wood is my usual medium. However, this small table sells and I will be moving on to different paints and finishes in future. My question though is for help with this particular piece.
Spraying MDF is not what I do, wood is my usual medium. However, this small table sells and I will be moving on to different paints and finishes in future. My question though is for help with this particular piece.
Spraying MDF is not what I do, wood is my usual medium. However, this small table sells and I will be moving on to different paints and finishes in future. My question though is for help with this particular piece.
Once painted with a decent hardwearing paint then maybe it will not need anything else so it could be a case of rather than try to protect the finish you have, repaint it. Someone who also works in MDF and might have suggestions is @petermillard .
I think I would need to dip my toes into cellulose paints for that type of finish. Tried a few other brands when I was tricked into doing our kitchen and not impressed. I have had my son reach out to @petermillard as he has been great helping out in the past.
It comes down to what finish you seek, I like the handpainted look of wood but if making things for others then trend / fashion comes into play and you do see a lot of this high gloss glass like finishes that are more like car bodywork.
For painting advice take a look at Hand-painted kitchens, furniture & period property in UK lots of advice on everything from prep to painting and some good reviews on equipment.
For painting advice take a look at Hand-painted kitchens, furniture & period property in UK lots of advice on everything from prep to painting and some good reviews on equipment.
Ollie78
Established Member
For a really hard wearing finish you would want a nice acid cat laquer, this is however quite nasty, next would be a pre cat laquer followed by a water bourne laquer.
For future reference Morrells will mix to Farrow and Balls in any of the above but they won`t call it that on the tin.
I see you are in Marlborough so I would get in touch with Holmans specialist paints in Swindon, they will mix any colour and do a range of paints from loads of companies, from industrial 2 packs to a can of emulsion.
Ollie
For future reference Morrells will mix to Farrow and Balls in any of the above but they won`t call it that on the tin.
I see you are in Marlborough so I would get in touch with Holmans specialist paints in Swindon, they will mix any colour and do a range of paints from loads of companies, from industrial 2 packs to a can of emulsion.
Ollie
petermillard
Established Member
Hi Gary. I don’t know which platform your son used, but I’m not aware of any ‘reaching out’ in this regard?
Anyway, I think my first question would be what kind of F&B paint finish are you trying to cover eg estate emulsion, modern emulsion, eggshell, satin, interior, exterior etc… and why you feel the need to apply a finish over what would usually be thought of as a ‘finished’ finish?
FWIW I’ve never had any issues with F&B paint - in my experience it’s a very high quality paint with very low ‘apparent metamerism’ ie the colour stays consistent regardless of the light source, that covers well - but it doesn’t react well with other primers and undercoats, which I think is the main issue that most folks have with it.
FWIW I haven’t found MRMDF needs any special treatment for painting - a primer/undercoat and a few topcoats usually covers it.
HTH P
Hi @petermillard I remember you did a short video on painting MDF, any chance of a link, thanks in advance
RogerS
Established Member
I think you have a problem with a stuck keyboard
petermillard
Established Member
The most recent was about painting MDF doors Roy, but the principle’s the same overall. Water-based acrylic primer/undercoat with two coats on the cut edges, denib, then water-based acrylic topcoat of your choice x 2 coats minimum, 3 for preference, and 4 if you have the time / will / energy. Denib between coats, and vacuumed and / or wiped over with a tack cloth.
