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Rather than remove the angled mitre fence, and possibly loose accuracy when refitted, why not put a straight one at the other end and make the block underneath removabale?

Andy
 
Thanks for everyones input i'll have a play about today, i've resketched what i'm going for, how well the removable 45 piece will be when its replaced might make me make 2.
shootingboard1.jpg


Ian
 
Midnight":2bmjsirr said:
Aye... I can see that workin just fine..
D'you know something, I can't. Unless, as I said, Ian is able to satisfactorily control the plane equally well with either hand. My take on making one with a removable stop would be something like this fwiw (warning - poor use of MS Paint alert):
sketch.JPG


But like Andy, I'd be wary of the movable stop's accuracy over time.

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf,

Am I missing something? With your 45 degree stop in the other position would that not mean pulling the plane towards you to avoid breakout? I'd find that possibly more awkward than just using my left hand to push the plane on the left of Ian's Mark II board.

Or if I stood at the long edge I'd be pushing the plane right to left with my right hand and have my arms crossed to hold the wood with my left hand.

Or am I just not seeing it all?? :?
 
Scott":ub661y7p said:
Am I missing something? With your 45 degree stop in the other position would that not mean pulling the plane towards you to avoid breakout? I'd find that possibly more awkward than just using my left hand to push the plane on the left of Ian's Mark II board.
Nope, you're not missing anything, you'd pull the plane. It's really very easy, honest. Mitre shooting boards have been designed around that basic premise for hundreds of years. I occasionally find myself pulling the plane in smoothing situations too, especially if it's a board with lots of grain reversal. Quicker than flipping the board.

Cheers, Alf
 
mmm, must be me! :? I have a shooting board but I only ever push the plane. Doesn't feel natural pulling it but now that I know I'll go and...ahem... practice another position :oops:

Cheers :lol:
 
just come back in from the workshop,

I made my part 2 version and results were as Alf had said, got to be ambidextrous but using it with the no9 its actually quite easy, and i prefer to work on the push stroke with the plane. Havent tried it with another plane as yet, I will go out later and build your version Alf (drawing is fine) and try them both.
I also looked at moving the crossmember on the underside nearer the middle and just turning the whole lot round and fixing the 45 piece into the centre that gives me a straight cut and a mitre cut without any removable parts but i'm back to using the plane on the pull stroke.

Like scott having never tried it i'll give it a go

i might like it

Pete it was done in sketchup

Ian
 
Ian,
seems to me that perhaps the answer (if you to not want to pull) is to have 2 shooting boards - I am sure you have the room.

Andy
feeling ashamed that someone can knock up more shooting boards in a few hours than I have managed in a lifetime :oops:
 
Ian...

just a suggestion...

wanna try it my way?? rotate the fence thru 90 deg, keep it central and shoot down the bench. I've found that provided I can get behind the plane, ambiwhatzit is a breeze....

OK I can do it... jus canna speel it... :wink:
 
MIDNIGHT WROTE
ambiwhatzit is a breeze....

Have you been on the grousehilariouscotchapisiaye tonight(dram for our fellow brits)

I'll give it a go i've made 3 today so i'll wait a day or so before i try again


Ian
 
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