Finally got a Miller's Falls MF1

[jimi43]

For quite a while I have wanted a Miller's Falls "Cigar" MF1 spokeshave....

Having read all sorts of reviews about them and since I do quite a bit of curved work...I have trolled the bootfairs and bid on FleaBay for one...sadly missing it for loads of money plus a few pence!

The other day...a fellow brother on the forum made a general comment which I had known all along but forgotten about..."go for FleaBay auctions with dodgy photos"!

So I did...and an "Old Spokeshave"...turned up this week which was identifiable to the keen eye...IF you knew what it was in the first place...and I received it today....WOW....

A previous owner has used a rather aggressive method of cleaning the manufacturer's marks to read them...

....but that should polish out with some MicroMesh....but the important bits....the bevel is untouched and the microbevel tiny...so it shaves beautifully without having to be reground or any of the other issues that plague these tools...

So I am well chuffed...and for a tenner...it was worth trolling acres of dodgy pictures to finally get close AND a cigar!! :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[Racers]

Hi, Jim

Well you paid less than I did, and mine had odd handles. I have made new ones since.
Cracking shaves!

Pete

 

[No skills]

Engage tool ignorance mode...

Are spokeshaves particularly hard to sharpen correctly? or is it just this particular shape/style of shave?

 

[jimi43]

Engage tool ignorance mode...

Are spokeshaves particularly hard to sharpen correctly? or is it just this particular shape/style of shave?

If you look at the last photograph NS....you will see that the bevel actually acts as the rear end of the sole and the front "sole" is a flat on the cylinder.

This means that the edge will not present itself to cut the wood unless the bevel is correct....

So the key to sharpening is the accuracy of the bevel (amongst other things).

The inside of the sliding blade is the back or flat of the edge and therefore has to be sharpened on something of the same radius.

It's fairly obvious when you think about it but it is not necessary to create a former...nor to use the "right" radius slip...

I simply curled 3M MicroMesh around the cylinder itself and rubbed the inside of the blade against progressive meshes getting finer and finer until the "flat" shone. Then a quick wipe of the front bevel by hand on a Belgian waterstone and job done!

Jim

 

[No skills]

Ok, so I'm assuming the main bevel isnt of a 'standard' angle used on other planes/shaves (25/30 degree etc) and that anyone regrinding the main bevel without taking major care to replicate it will bugger up the chances of ever getting a good shaving with it. Thus the importance of getting an 'un-touched' one to start with.

 

[jimi43]

Ok, so I'm assuming the main bevel isnt of a 'standard' angle used on other planes/shaves (25/30 degree etc) and that anyone regrinding the main bevel without taking major care to replicate it will pipper up the chances of ever getting a good shaving with it. Thus the importance of getting an 'un-touched' one to start with.

That's about it.

There are a couple of threads on here about it...and making a new blade.

THIS ARTICLE describes the tool well.

I will soon be doing some whittling...watch out! :wink:

Jim

 

[No skills]

Cheers Jim, fog lifted.

 

[jimi43]

Cheers Jim, fog lifted.

No problems...it has fogged a few people over the years...there are plenty of articles trying to get around it...but I must say...it looks like a simple tool and it very much isn't!

Ok...finally got to test it...

I must say...it can be set coarse to remove plenty of stock really quickly....

...then it can be backed off to give a really fine finish...

I need to play a bit more tomorrow to get the "gossamer" fine shavings but so far...

....it meets all my expectancies and more....

Am I glad I finally found one...absolutely!

It's a nice bit of kit...performs well and I love the look and feel of this old piece of beautiful design!

Jim

 

[matthewwh]

What a thoroughly delightful thing to own, and acquired with the elegance of a rapier wit.

Nice one Jim!

 

[Racers]

Hi, Jim

I last used mine on some beach spatulas, on the shoulder curve between the blade and handle it must be about ¾” radius, it coped with it well, once you get the wrist rolling action it’s amazing just how well it will work in tight radiuses.

I have made slightly bigger handles for mine which I feel works better for me.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

The other day...a fellow brother on the forum made a general comment which I had known all along but forgotten about..."go for FleaBay auctions with dodgy photos"!

Heh. I've also seen advice from experienced eBay buyers to avoid bad photos, since the poster is probably (deliberately) hiding something, which is also entirely plausible (and backed by examples on the relevant thread).

Swings, roundabouts, etc.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I picked up a Stanley 60 1/2 that no one spotted in a bad Ebay photo for a very good price.

Pete

 

[jimi43]

The other day...a fellow brother on the forum made a general comment which I had known all along but forgotten about..."go for FleaBay auctions with dodgy photos"!

Heh. I've also seen advice from experienced eBay buyers to avoid bad photos, since the poster is probably (deliberately) hiding something, which is also entirely plausible (and backed by examples on the relevant thread).

Swings, roundabouts, etc.

BugBear

I don't often buy fairground equipment BB...but point noted in case I do.......

Dave....HELLO DAVE...... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[Harbo]

I bought an Unimat lathe with lots of extras very cheap on the bay a few years back.
The photos were very poor quality but I knew what I was looking for - having been watching for a while.
If he had listed the extras or shown them clearer then the price would probably have trebled?

Rod