Felder B6 Spindle moulding for first time

[colwyn chippie]

Hi

Has anyone out there got a Felder B6? could do with a little advice on using spindle moulder for first time, want to be able to tenon for external doors, need to know what tooling I need, have got a 50mm deep rebate block, a euro block, an old whitehill block from my Lurem C210 and some felder 125x8x30 cutting blades x3. Would ideally like to be able to do a 70-80mm tenon to start with.

I have some "Royale" (thats what local timber merchants called it) architrave to mould, They wanted £120 + vat (for two set ups) + cost of timber for the architrave. Would like to give this a go but don't know if my kit is up to it or do I need a particular block, I am pretty sure I will need knives or a least tool steel to make some.

Any advice would be a help #-o

Many thanks in advance

 

[RogerS]

The best advice I can give if this is the first time you have used a spindle moulder is to get some proper training. Remember the old adage

"Router tables remove fingers. Spindle moulders remove hands"

 

[PAC1]

For cutting tenons I use this block http://www.whitehill-tools.com/catalogue.php?pid=2507 If you speak to Whitehill they will supply the correct nut for the recess to fit your spindle. This block can also double up for the moulding you want to do, again Whitehill have a good range of cutters.
The real issue is having the right fences guards and training. Tenoning is not for the faint hearted. You cannot just hold the wood against the crosscut fence it will be dragged further and further in. Also cutting an 80mm tenon in one go is a big ask. Felder sell the tenoning guards they also sell tenoning discs but they are serious both in size and price.

 

[colwyn chippie]

sorry for the late reply, got a laptop with a mind of its own, have written a reply to this post twice, nowt to do with forum just my pork sausage fingers #-o

Would love to get some really good training but funds are tight, waiting for some delayed work to start! been a crap few weeks, been busy previously hence the new (secondhand) Felder, would love to do a few months in a good machine shop (and then go on a furniture course but just as a hobby)

Many Thanks to Pac, will look at the Whitehill stuff tommorow, will I need to re-mortgage? did look at a video on youtube from Nottingham uni, They have T&g'd the fences and used disposable/ sacrificial boards for the insert between the fences stopping the work being dragged in, better extraction and less tear out, I thought it was brilliant, not seen this done before. I have seen "Aigner" fences
and thought they were cool but not in my price bracket yet. Also watched a video of an old guy, tenoning with what looked like saw bladles on an old felder (B5?) really scary :shock:

Thanks to RogerS, I agree, I definately need more training, I have done a little bit through trial and error on my old Lurem C210B, been doing thing very gingerly and ultra carefully, I have been doing bits on my Porter Cable router table over the last ten years, mainly beads etc. Also used my Freud cabinet door making set, but a bit hampered by a single speed router.

Prior to that been on the tools! not in the workshop, body's knackered now, bad back and done in knees + shoulder,ready for the glue factory :lol:

 

[dejaa]

Hi

Looks like you already got some good safety advise re: cutting your tenons.

I had a Felder combination m/c which although I'm not certain, is likely pretty much the same spindle moulder, but having made many, many windows doors, and door frames I would never consider cutting an 80mm tenon on a spindle moulder. From your initial comments, this implies your limited knowledge, but not wishing to tell you how to suck eggs, please consider that for an 80mm deep tenon you will require a cutter that is at least 80mm x2 plus 30mm (spindle) plus about 20mm (thickness of 2x spacer walls) - so roughly 210mm!! You will ABSOLUTELY require the tenoning guards already mentioned. As a comparison your 125mm cutters will be limited to about 35mm deep cuts, of course you could also use rhe 50mm rebate block to one tenon cheek then the opposite in two passes?

If you have a table saw, have you considered cutting the shoulder cuts on this then either use a tenoning jig or bandsaw for the cheek cuts, much safer procedure.

Quite happy to chat to you if that helps; pm me your tel #
Cheers David

 

[colwyn chippie]

Thanks for the advice Dejaa, your dead right about the limited knowledge on the old lurem it was a doddle, made a homemade jig that sat over the fence and tennoned that way, that's "ok" for small stuff but no good for larger heavy rails etc.

With the felder, I haven't got round to making a jig for fence yet for the small stuff, I have an excellent sliding carriage but need an extension table (£243.60 +del+vat) to carry the larger rails

The Lurems fence was pretty crap and had a tendency to wander of its own accord, when I bought the saw(lurem) it came with a homemade outfield table and side extension, to this I added an axminster fence which helped a bit but was far from perfect. I have tried to upload a pic but the files too big, will hopefully get some pics up soon.

Going to try and send you a PM, hope this works #-o

 

[colwyn chippie]

Pac1

Just had a look a the whitehill block that you sent the link to me, really good ! have spent a good half hour browsing and will probs end up spending all I have on tooling very soon =P~