Euro Hinges and Kitchen Cupbaord Doors

[cutter12]

Hi,

I have fitted some basic kitchen unit carcases but want to make the doors myself. I am really trying to keep costs down have a really limited budget and don't have a workshop.

My first question regards euro hinges. Is it possible to use a forstner bit successfully with just a hand held drill?

I have seen a 'Rockler JIG IT Drill Guide' (£45 from US I think) but it seems a bit of an expense as I will probably not use it again after completeing the kitchen. Does anyone know of an alternative that you can buy in the UK?

Axminster sell a 'Universal Hinge Jig' for a router (and I own a router).....any thoughts on this.....has anyone used it?

For the doors I was thinking of constucting a frame from 1x3" using pocket hole joinery (Possibly the kregg R3?). Then run around the middle of the frame with a rebate bit on the router and drop a panel in (not sure what to use for the panel yet). Then paint.

Any advice or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Sorry i couldn't post any links but Idon't have permision.....its my first post here....

Oh, one last thing. Is there a maximum depth of cupbaord door that a euro hinge will work with? The bought doors for the carcases I fitted are 18mm.

Phew

 

[pcb1962]

Hinge jig: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Concealed-Hin ... 1433371952

1" is a bit chunky for a kitchen cupboard door IMO

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you own a router and correct sized bit, just knock up your own jig. Shouldn't be difficult. It's highly unlikely that you will get a clean hole with a hand held forstner, although of course you could make a jig to centre it quite easily. it much depends whether you already have a router cutter or a forstner.

 

[RogerBoyle]

Yes you can quite easily use a handheld drill if your bits are sharp
BUT its also very easy to drill the hole to deep LOL :mrgreen: #-o

I use a pillar drill most of the time but I have had on many occasions to drill out for the hinges for various appliances on site and use my Cordless instead.
Measure the depth of the cup on the hinge that you have got before you start drilling the door

 

[RogerS]

Get a thick bit of MDF scrap. Drill your hole through that using your forstner bit. If you make a mistake, try another hole. Once you have got your hole in the MDF that becomes your guide. Clamp it to your door where the hinge needs to go. Then place the forstner bit in your guide hole and drill. As Roger says, watch the depth.

 

[cutter12]

Hi all.

Sorry for such a late reply. I really do appreciate all the input I have just had a long list of other things to be doing....this project is getting closer now ...

pcb1962 - You mat be right that 1" is a bit thick.....what do you recommend?......I am thinking that the planed thickness of the 3x1 might be a little less...maybe 20mm?

phil.p- I think I am going to go down the Forstner/dril route......Aminster- 35mm bit/plastic template ofr £9.46.....the bits for the router cost £30 upwards so going to see how I go with the drilll first

RogerBoyle - I will take extra care with the depths I think I will do a few tests on some scraps first.

RogerS - Will have a go at making the MDF guide

Thanks again for the responses....I will post again with how I get on...unless it goes really bad

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Euro hinges from memory work in door thicknesses from about 18-22mm. Almost all commercially available doors are in the 3/4" territory ie notionally 19mm (but 18 is common especially for B&Q origin particle board or MDF).

 

[MrYorke]

I use a hinge cutter I picked up from Screwfix. Works fine in a hand-held. I've drilled hundreds of hinge holes this way. Just watch you don't go too far through. Just check and after a few you'll get a feel of when to stop.

If you drill the hinge hole into timber at any point in the future then you will need a jig.

As mentioned above, these types of hinges are for 18-22mm thickness however, there are some available for thicker doors but they are less common

 

[beganasatree]

If you use a template like RodgerS suggested you can drill the hole part of the depth,then take the template off and use the part drilled hole as your guide .You now have a more visible control over the depth of the hole.
Peter

 

[mseries]

I made my own router template. Using a half inch cutter and 5/8" guide bush. Not used it in anger yet* but tested it an it seems OK. There are some pictures on my flickr page (flickr.com/mseries12) including a diagram with dimensions. Since I did this I got a worktop jig which also has a hole the right size to use with half inch cutter and 30mm guide bush. I have also got a drill press too so I could easily use more common hinge sinker !!!!

*This is for a project I started well over a year ago, maybe two and suspended a few times !!! Really must finish those doors and fit them before it's too damp for painting outside

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've collected some odd drills down the years. The one on the left, I think was for locksmiths.
Both are nominally 35mm, but the Forstner, being cheap, is significantly oversize, which would be a curse when fitting hinges (dead-on being good!). You might want to check for that in some scrap first.

Also, the non-Forstner clears chips better and doesn't get as hot and is easier to hone, and it's easier to see the point when starting off.

Honestly tho, if you can beg access to a drill press somewhere, it's worth it for this job. You're so close to the outer face of the board - it's something I really hate doing.

E.

PS: the 'gunge' on the Forstner is spray-on PTFE lubricant, but it doesn't help much.

PPS: For a rough depth check, you can always mark a line on the rim of the Forstner with a permanent marker. Hold the drill on the bench and rotate it slowly against the felt tip. It needn't be bang on, as long as you know how close it is...

 

[cutter12]

Euro hinges from memory work in door thicknesses from about 18-22mm. Almost all commercially available doors are in the 3/4" territory ie notionally 19mm (but 18 is common especially for B&Q origin particle board or MDF).

Thanks Bob. I will get some 18 or 19mm timber then.

I use a hinge cutter I picked up from Screwfix. Works fine in a hand-held. I've drilled hundreds of hinge holes this way. Just watch you don't go too far through. Just check and after a few you'll get a feel of when to stop. If you drill the hinge hole into timber at any point in the future then you will need a jig. As mentioned above, these types of hinges are for 18-22mm thickness however, there are some available for thicker doors but they are less common

Cheers Mr York, I got one of the Axminster Hinge jig/drill bit sets.

If you use a template like RodgerS suggested you can drill the hole part of the depth,then take the template off and use the part drilled hole as your guide .You now have a more visible control over the depth of the hole. Peter

OK, I think I know what you mean...but....what do you mean by 'use the part drilled hole as your guide'

I made my own router template. Using a half inch cutter and 5/8" guide bush. Not used it in anger yet* but tested it an it seems OK. There are some pictures on my flickr page including a diagram with dimensions. Since I did this I got a worktop jig which also has a hole the right size to use with half inch cutter and 30mm guide bush. I have also got a drill press too so I could easily use more common hinge sinker !!!!

Some interesting pics Jigs look great? How did you cut the circles for the jigs btw?

I've collected some odd drills down the years. The one on the left, I think was for locksmiths.
Both are nominally 35mm, but the Forstner, being cheap, is significantly oversize, which would be a curse when fitting hinges (dead-on being good!). You might want to check for that in some scrap first.
Also, the non-Forstner clears chips better and doesn't get as hot and is easier to hone, and it's easier to see the point when starting off.
Honestly tho, if you can beg access to a drill press somewhere, it's worth it for this job. You're so close to the outer face of the board - it's something I really hate doing.
PS: the 'gunge' on the Forstner is spray-on PTFE lubricant, but it doesn't help much.
PPS: For a rough depth check, you can always mark a line on the rim of the Forstner with a permanent marker. Hold the drill on the bench and rotate it slowly against the felt tip. It needn't be bang on, as long as you know how close it is...

Thanks for the info. I got cabinet bit from Axcminster (see above) so i am going to use that. Sounds like getting teh correct depth is going to be the biggest challenge. Good tip on marker pen on the bit. I think I am going to try cutting a template from some scrap as suggested. I will do a few tests and see how that goes.


Has anyone got suggestions on the dimensions of the timber I might use?

I am now thinking 19x75mm for the door frames and 9mm MDF or Ply (not sure which?) for the panels. Does that seem OK? I am going to join the frame with 32mm Kreg pocket hole screws.

For the panels I am planning on cutting a rebate in the rear of the frames and attaching the panels with short screws or pins. I guess it would be better to cut a groove? I am intending to use my router to cut the rebate using a sraight edge cutter. Would I be better getting hold of a bit that is specifically for rebates/rabbeting? I am guessing i would need 9mm or 3/8"? If i used one of these maybe it would be possible to have a groove for the panels instead of a rebate at the rear of the door?

...again I know this might all seem a bit obvious....but... thanks.......

 

[Petey83]

i am making some doors along the same lines to your plans this weekend.

I got one of the little ebay marking jigs a while back and its does the job perfectly well.

In terms of how to do the panels - i got myself a groove cutter and set of bearings from Wealdon tools (6mm, 8mm, 10mm bearings) so i am planning on cutting a dado in the inside sides of the 18mm MDF rail and styles and then cutting a centre panel to size +10mm to allow for the depth of my groove. The rails and styles will be jointed using my brand shinny new Domino although size 10 biscuits were my original plan before i splashed on the Domino.

I would advise caution with pocket screws on MDF, especially for end on end joint you are talking about as in my experience MDF has a habit of pushing apart and splitting if not extremely careful and spot on with the screw size you use.

in terms of the hinges i have a 35mm hinge boring router bit also from Wealdon tools (honestly i am not getting paid for mentioning them ) and will use my router on the festool guide rails to line up with a shallow pilot hole i will pre drill when marking out.

good luck with your project. 8)

 

[mseries]

Some interesting pics Jigs look great? How did you cut the circles for the jigs btw?

Using my circle cutting jig of course

Router Circle Jig by MSeries, on Flickr

Took a few goes, trial and error to get the hole spot on. The small hole is just got sighting the centre line and doesn't have to be accurate

Heres the layout

35mm_hinge by MSeries, on Flickr

 

[cutter12]

In terms of how to do the panels - i got myself a groove cutter and set of bearings from Wealdon tools (6mm, 8mm, 10mm bearings) so i am planning on cutting a dado in the inside sides of the 18mm MDF rail and styles and then cutting a centre panel to size +10mm to allow for the depth of my groove. The rails and styles will be jointed using my brand shinny new Domino although size 10 biscuits were my original plan before i splashed on the Domino.

I would advise caution with pocket screws on MDF, especially for end on end joint you are talking about as in my experience MDF has a habit of pushing apart and splitting if not extremely careful and spot on with the screw size you use.

In terms of the hinges i have a 35mm hinge boring router bit also from Wealdon tools (honestly i am not getting paid for mentioning them ) and will use my router on the festool guide rails to line up with a shallow pilot hole i will pre drill when marking out.

I had to look up what a 'Domino' was.....wow...looks like a very nice item I am using softwood timber for the rails and stiles and MDF or Ply for the panels so should not be using pocket joinery on MDF (unless it goes really wrong ) I just bought the Kreg so it will be my first outing with it. I am planning on using the 3smm washer head coarse screws and the wood is probably going to be 19x75mm. does hat sound the right screw for the job? It seems to be what Kreg recommend but it would be interesting to hear what a Kreg Jig user thinks.

I did consider buying the 35mm Hinge Boring Router Bit but they all worked out way more expensive than the ones for the drill. It would have been nice as I could have set the correct depth stop. As I am probably not going to be using it again after doing the kitchen I couldn't justify buying the more expensive Router bit Over the Drill bit.

What size depth is your panel and groove? I was thinking that I would just but cut a rebate in the rear of the rail/stiles and pin the panel in flush. But maybe it would be a better job to put in a groove? I have seen a Trend Groove Cutter for £18 that will do a 10mm wide groove to a depth of 9.5mm. Does that sound about right size of groove for holding a 9mm depth panel? (This is something i have never done before )

Took a few goes, trial and error to get the hole spot on. The small hole is just got sighting the centre line and doesn't have to be accurate

Looks great