Essential tools/ equipment for a workshop?

[EnJoneer]

I will be totally rebuilding my workshop and need help deciding on what equipment to buy initially - things that are workshop essentials and will be used most times I'm in there.
I will be purchasing a metal turning lathe at some point, and hopefully a mill also, but for now I just want to fill my workshop with the most important pieces of equipment/ tools.

What are peoples thoughts on a circular table saw VS a bandsaw in terms of accuracy and application?

Also, what are some often neglected but useful pieces of equipment?

Things I plan on purchasing so far:
- Mechanics vice and set of soft jaws.
- Adjustable vice.
- Drill press.
- Abrasive wheel/ bench grinder.
- Linisher or sanding wheel/belt.
- Either a bandsaw or circular table saw.
- Buffing wheel.
- MIG welding unit.
- Lathe and mill at a later date.

I use my workshop for a whole variety of projects so this thread isn't specific to one particular task. Just want some thoughts on what I could do with having in my workshop and what is a must.

Thanks in advance.

 

[MMUK]

Water supply, kettle, fridge and a decent stereo.

 

[woodpig]

Looks like a good list. Handy to have both but you could do without the drill if you get a milling machine. Bandsaw IMO is the king of saws in the workshop so you could do without the table saw for at least a while. Add radio and Phone to the list! Oh and chop/mitre saws are very handy.

 

[dickm]

Not clear - is this for metal work mainly? If so, can't really see a table saw being any use cutting metal. But remember that metalworking bandsaws generally run much slower than wood saws and ideally need coolant/lubricant, so even a bandsaw won't be ideal for both. (OK, I know, my 352 has two speeds and is claimed to be OK for metal, but have never used it for that)

 

[Myfordman]

Older Startrite bandsaws will do both metal and wood eg 18-s-10.
18" throat and ten speeds by a mix of belt change and gearbox. Obviously you need to change blades between wood and metalwork

You need 100fpm for chunky steel and 3000fpm for wood

 

[seaco]

When it comes to bandsaws you will never have a saw that easily does both even if you get the speeds right you'll cut metal then have to completely clean the whole machine out if your to keep the wood you cut next clean, I speak from experience as I did this with my largish Axminster bandsaw I even fitted 3 phase and an inverter to slow it enough and yes it cut metal really well but then when I wanted to cut a piece of oak black everywhere!

My tablesaw sits in the middle of my workshop and becomes my workbench when not in use but is only for use with wood so now I have bought a second hand (£25 bargain) small Clarke horizontal bandsaw for metal that can be lifted upright for vertical cutting and gets a lot of use.

As for welding I thought long and hard about this due to my workshop being made of wood and I work with wood and I have sawdust and shavings about at times, I decided to go TIG a little more expensive and harder to learn than MIG but can be bought second hand and the beauty is "no sparks" so it's as safe as welding can be in my workshop.

My best advice is whichever way you choose keep metal and wood well apart when working on them as trust me they hate each other...

 

[Eric The Viking]

A really strong magnet and a selection of thick plastic bags:

Put magnet in bag. Pass over workbench, floor, etc, to pick up filings, swarf etc. When done, carefully turn bag inside out and remove from magnet. Dispose of bag and quickly apply a new one to the magnet.

Swarf stays in bag. Magnet stays clean. There's always a bit of steel somewhere to keep it on. Occasionally you find escapee woodscrews at the same time.

Get your magnets from the head actuator mechanism of an old hard disk. Be careful - they are usually VERY strong magnets.

Cheap or free. Very effective, especially for removing filings from the bench.

What's not to like?

E.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Also, if you can, try to find some Abrafiles and clips to fit a standard hacksaw.

Sadly I think they're no longer made, and I have no idea what might replace them. They were a simple*, wonderful, BRITISH invention that should have been immediately nationalized and made available free to anybody needing one. Socialism always lets you down when you really need it, sigh.**

E.

*I can't imagine how they were made - witchcraft probably - but they are absolutely brilliant for cutting shapes in reasonably thin steel plate, brass, etc.

**That was ONLY humour, not political comment, honestly.

 

[Droogs]

Abrafiles are basically spiral toothed scroll saw blades

 

[t8hants]

Assuming you are mainly working in steel.
A slow run chop saw would be more useful than a band saw, and once you get the knack you can do an awful lot of cutting with a grinderette and slitting discs.
Again unless working in non ferrous for finishing grinderettes with soft pads will do a lot of the finishing.

 

[chipmunk]

When it comes to bandsaws you will never have a saw that easily does both even if you get the speeds right you'll cut metal then have to completely clean the whole machine out if your to keep the wood you cut next clean, I speak from experience as I did this with my largish Axminster bandsaw I even fitted 3 phase and an inverter to slow it enough and yes it cut metal really well but then when I wanted to cut a piece of oak black everywhere!

+1
I have an 18" wood bandsaw that's supposed to be able to cut metal too but I have a baby £200 Warco CY90 metal cutter and I wouldn't be without either of them.

Jon

 

[MCB]

First Aid Kit.

MCB

 

[BillK]

At least two angry grinders, cuts down on disc-swapping.
Fire extinguishers, bucket of sand, bins with lids. I keep solvent stuff & paints etc in an old steel office draw cab, against welding sparks & hot rocks.
Evolution chop/sliding mitre saws cut wood & metal with the same blade, though the blades aren't cheap.