ERBAUER ER2100 2100W

[Clarkie]

Hello,

I'm fairly new to woodworking and I have fairly basic DIY skills but I'm eager to learn. I have an ERBAUER ER2100 2100W router which I have used for a couple of jobs, however it's not the easiest to use hand held and I'm looking to build a router table.

My initial plan was to replace my current workbench which is falling to pieces and incorporate my plunge router into that using a car jack to do height adjustment. The problem I have is that a decent workbench top is too thick to screw the router underneath and have it plunge all the way through.

I planned to buy a metal router plate but none of them seem to have the distances of the fitting screws to ensure it will work.

Has anyone bought a router plate for this model of router? Or has anyone had one fabricated specifically for their router?

Thank you.

 

[LancsRick]

Right, you've got a few options here...

- Cheapest would be to either get a router plate and drill it yourself. Ensure when you select a plate that it doesn't have reviews highlighting any issues with sagging, and feel free to over-engineer the table top - flat is key.
- Worktop offcuts make excellent router table tops if you're on a budget - some browsing of these forums will show they're a fairly common choice.
- If you want a learning exercise at the same time as building a router table, look at the freely available designs for Norm's router table (or variants of).

Your other option if you're just learning and want to get a capability up and running rather than build something is (unsurprisingly) to buy. A couple of options spring to mind...
- Mount your existing router in one of the cheap Rutlands router tables.
- Grab a Triton router and their router table top (TWX7) and stick the two together. Above table bit changes and height adjustment are a big plus.

So there you go, options from building it all from scratch through to buying the whole lot, hopefully some of the information is of use.

 

[Clarkie]

That's great, thank you for taking the time to reply.

I like the idea of trying to build my own so I think I'll go with that. I hadn't considered using old worktop. I have a number of coated wooden bath sides that I was thinking of using that I no longer need, but they are too think. I'm thinking that if I use the removal bar plate as a template I can route out the wood so the router sits inside it slightly and then the plunge should be ok.

I did buy a metal router plate but the screw holes soared to be for a much smaller /palm router sized machine. I didnt fancy trying to drill it and countersink as I think I'll end up catching the existing holes.

 

[Peterm1000]

Does your Erbauer router have a depth control knob like mine? If so, I have mine mounted in a Rutlands router table (£100), can change the bits from the top and adjust the height from the front by turning that knob. Not the easiest to remove the springs though.

 

[Clarkie]

Does your Erbauer router have a depth control knob like mine? If so, I have mine mounted in a Rutlands router table (£100), can change the bits from the top and adjust the height from the front by turning that knob. Not the easiest to remove the springs though.

Hello, sorry for the delay. No I don't think so? It has a depth gauge and different height stops, also a fine adjustment wheel on the top.

I think my only plunge setting options are to remove it and set the plunge depth or use some sort of jack underneath it and adjust that way. I do have a spare jack ready to go, I just need a good big of wood that doesn't flex under the pressure.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[Peterm1000]

I have basically the identical router (an older model number but looks almost identical). The fine adjuster on mine moves the router bit up and down about 15mm I would say - maybe more. I fit the bit from above the table and it's very rare I have to do anything other than use that adjuster to raise and lower the bit. You need more when using it as a plunge router, but for a table fitting, the amount of movement doesn't need to be that much.

If I were you, I would start by removing the springs (there is a guide on here somewhere - not complicated, but you do have to take the router outer case off to do it) and seeing how much that fine adjuster works for you. I think you may find you don't need to use a jack and the fine adjuster will do everything you need. I also have a cable tie around the trigger so I can use an NVR switch and have it so that the fine adjuster is near the front of the table.

 

[Clarkie]

I have basically the identical router (an older model number but looks almost identical). The fine adjuster on mine moves the router bit up and down about 15mm I would say - maybe more. I fit the bit from above the table and it's very rare I have to do anything other than use that adjuster to raise and lower the bit. You need more when using it as a plunge router, but for a table fitting, the amount of movement doesn't need to be that much.

If I were you, I would start by removing the springs (there is a guide on here somewhere - not complicated, but you do have to take the router outer case off to do it) and seeing how much that fine adjuster works for you. I think you may find you don't need to use a jack and the fine adjuster will do everything you need. I also have a cable tie around the trigger so I can use an NVR switch and have it so that the fine adjuster is near the front of the table.

Thank you, that sounds like a good solution. I will have a look at removing the springs, I'm assuming it's non destructive and I can always add them again if it doesn't work for me?

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[Peterm1000]

Absolutely. It would be much easier if you could just unscrew the base plate and remove them that way, but unless they changed the design since my model, you can't. If you remove part of the case, it should become fairly obvious how to remove the springs. Non-destructive, but a bit fiddly to put the case back together. Took me about 20 minutes if I recall - 10 minutes of which were trying to avoid opening the case. It does of course mean you can't use it as a plunge router until you put the springs back.