Engineer's square advice

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Newbie_Neil

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Hi all,

Does anyone know where I can buy a 150mm engineer's square that is square and won't break the bank? Or doesn't such an item exist?

The Axminster one (SOBA) is not square and I was told by a member of staff it also rusts quickly!!

Thanks,
Neil
 
The only ones I've ever bought have been Moore and Wright, and some 50 yrs later they are still as true as the day they were acquired, or at least they were last time I checked them against a standards cylinder, and as they are only ever used for marking out and the occasional machine setting these days I guess they will stay true enough to see me out.
But having rambled on about all that I guess a new 150mm/6" one is not going to give you much change out of £30 these days.
 
cmwatt":2rn99vv7 said:
I bought a 300mm Silverline Engineer's square which seems to get decent reviews and it's suppose to be accurate. Price is very good too.
"Precision engineers square with hardened steel blade. Manufactured to DIN875/1. Accurate both inside and outside edges."
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-82116-150-Engineers-Square/dp/B000LFTWZI

Postage must cost about approaching a couple of quid and they do it for free on a £4.15 item ... makes me wonder what these things actually cost wholesale. :shock:
 
I have a certified one from Dick that I use as my reference.
The ones I bought from Axminster a few years ago are fine.
Last year at the ME Show at Ally Pally from RDG Tools I bought a big jobby - again perfectly square and cheap.

You could make your own?

Rod
 
.

Frankly, you won't do better than Moore and Wright, and you don't need certificates of calibtation for woodworking.

Engineer's squares are best as they don't go out of true easliy.

The bigger they get, the more expensive they become, but good quality and good condition M&W squares come up quite regularly on Fleabay for just a few quid. If they come with the original wooden boxes, they tend to have been looked after in previous use and are worth going for.

I have severa by M&W; the ones that I use the most are 6" and a couple of little 3"; one by M&W, they other a 3 quid special from B&Q. They are both good for what I need. I also have an Axy 10", for bigger stock and it's quite true and doesn't rust at all.

How do I check them?

First, I scribe a 6" line with a one-sided marker. Next I turn the square around and scrib a parallel line about 1 mm apart. then I look at the difference in parallel very carefully. Try this with your non engineer's woodworking squares with rose wood handles......

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Argus":1o74dv0v said:
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First, I scribe a 6" line with a one-sided marker. Next I turn the square around and scrib a parallel line about 1 mm apart. then I look at the difference in parallel very carefully. Try this with your non engineer's woodworking squares with rose wood handles......

That's how I check my rosewood handled squares, and on the very odd occaision when they are out, I draw file the blade to make it 'right'.

xy
 
Off topic somewhat, but googling to find out how much a test cylinder cost these days, this link popped up.
Another wasted hour engrossed in reading long remembered bits and pieces from the past.
 
xy mosian":1s1n3n59 said:
That's how I check my rosewood handled squares, and on the very odd occaision when they are out, I draw file the blade to make it 'right'.

xy



That's my point.

Engineer's squares don't go 'out of true' to the extent where they need adjustment with a file.


.
 
If you buy a cheapie and it isn't square, take a fine flat file to it and square it up. Not particularly diffcult if you can already square up stock with a hand plane or sharpen your chisels/planes without a honing guide.

Oz
 
Argus":ljwrje05 said:
xy mosian":ljwrje05 said:
That's how I check my rosewood handled squares, and on the very odd occaision when they are out, I draw file the blade to make it 'right'.

xy
That's my point.
Engineer's squares don't go 'out of true' to the extent where they need adjustment with a file.
.

I do find that mine go out slightly of square with use. Marking/cutting with a knife etc. Maybe I'm ham fisted. Engineers squares that I have used tend to be used for checking only, rather than the general use in woodworking for marking etc.
Perhaps if I never put an edge anywhere near my woodworking squares they wouldn't go out. :)
xy
 
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