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Engine damage from oil change?

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Karl

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I recently did an oil & filter change on the Focus (TDDi). I do it quite regular (every 6 months or so), unless it's going into the garage for something and then I get them to do it.

Anyway, I did the usual routine, put the fresh oil in, then took it out for a little run to get it all flowing and in the filter etc before topping up to its final level. The engine holds 5 litres, the filter 0.6 litres, so I normally put 5 litres in then top up.

Sounded a bit rough. So I got back, only to find that there was hardly any oil on the dipstick, and it was way below the "minimum" level. The problem - I had put in a full bottle of oil, which is 5 litres. Or so I thought. What I hadn't realised was that this oil was only 4 litres! Strangely the Oil Pressure light hadn't come on.

I topped it up to its right level, but it is still sounding a bit rough - it also seems to have lost a bit of its acceleration in the lower revs. And it can chug a little bit of you cruise in a low gear (eg. going round a corner in 2nd). It wasn't like this before.

The oil was 5w40. The manual says you can use this, but the recommended is 5w30. Would changing the oil to the lower viscosity reduce engine noise?

I also changed the fuel filter at the same time, but that went fine (although i've never done it before and was following a manual).

Any suggestions?

Cheers

Karl
 

Cheshirechappie

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Diesels always sound rough when they're cold. Well, mine does, anyway. If the oil warning light didn't come on, it either means that there was enough pressure, or the bulb doesn't work, or the pressure sensor has packed in.

Get the oil level right, then take it for a longer run (driving normally) and see if everything warms up, tightens up and becomes 'normal' again. The minor change of oil spec. shouldn't make that much difference. Sometimes after a service, you can be hyper-sensitive to things you didn't notice before. Maybe there's just an element of that.
 

monkeybiter

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Your self adjusting tappets will probably be hydraulic and depend on being charged with oil. Insufficient oil or worn adjusters will have a detrimental affect on the valve operation and consequently the running. However, if they are still in good condition they shouldn't take long to 'recharge' with oil. Just thinking aloud.
 

Digit

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Mike +1. If the oil was lost from the tappets there will air in the line which compresses and causes the tappets to rattle and pippers the valve timing. If that is the case it should clear, fingers crossed.
Also some OHC engines have hydraulic cam chain tensioners, same thing happens.

Roy.
 

Karl

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Thanks for the replies.

I did the oil change about a week ago, and was hoping it would have cured itself by now.

I've only done short runs since, school run etc. I may take it for a run over the weekend.

Cheers

Karl
 

Dodge

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Just one thought Karl,

Did you use Mineral, Semi Synthetic or fully synthetic oil and what was in the car previously.

I once put fully synthetic in our Isuzu and it ran like a bag of nails until I replaced it with semi synthetic a couple of weeks later - I couldnt believe the difference and that was all to do with the way the hydraulics worked on the injectors
 

Karl

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Interesting Roger.

It was fully synthetic oil. I can't remember what was in it before, as the last oil change was done by the garage.

I'm minded to change it to semi 5w30 and see how that goes.
 

Digit

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I doubt that a garage would use fully synthetic unless instructed to do so frankly.

Roy.
 

Dodge

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Karl":1fmtol5y said:
Interesting Roger.

It was fully synthetic oil. I can't remember what was in it before, as the last oil change was done by the garage.

I'm minded to change it to semi 5w30 and see how that goes.
I reckon that will be your answer Karl,

Drain and refill with semi and I reckon that will sort it - very few diesel cars are actually designed to use fully synthetic as it breaks down quicker than semi or mineral.

Rog
 

Benchwayze

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Oh for the old 1970s, Austin Cambridge 1600..

I drove all the way from Peterborough to Brum, with the oil light on, in the belief it was a faulty sensor.
When I checked the oil next day it was dry as a bone!

Just put some more oil in, and got another 2 years out of her! I did eventually find and fix the oil leak, by getting 'half-engine' (A recon block) and rebuilding it. They built real engines in those days, as opposed to marvels of computer science crossed with bright ideas!


Happy Days. Then I found my first Volvo! :mrgreen:
 
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