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You can use any old oil based paint... or get a 5 ltr can of pva from Wickes and dilute it (easier to apply and goes further :wink: )
 
I'm with Graham on this one, use any oil paint you have lying around. Only buy something when you have none left.

I use candle wax in a heated tray, but only cause I get it cheap from a candle producers. It's all the ends and runs from the manufacturing process.
 
I use wax too.....the leftovers from 'altar candles' from Asda etc, which are rubbish and always burn down leaving a huge amount of wax.
If I get short I buy some in - but that's expensive, the whole lot is cooked in a Deep Fat Fryer (turned off the moment it goes liquid !)

Chris
 
Hello all,

I have also used pva to seal the ends of logs, but have also used melted candle wax in a giant pan. I sometimes find it cracks off again after time, especially on cherry. Thats my tuppeceworth anyway.

GT
 
Normally I use candle fat, heated to the point (below fuming) where wet wood dipped in it steams and bubbles, this seems to then hold on better as it gets sucked in a few thou. as it cools.

Failing that as others have said any old oil paint although I am running out of leftovers, it's what I suggest donators of green wood use if they can't get wood to me immediately it is cut.
 
thanks everybody, I will start tomorrow with this
Do you think I should could logs into blanks, seal the ends and leave them on a rack until I turn them , or should I schould I seal the ends of the logs and cut them to size when I want to turn them???
 
Hi Morris. Any log over about 4" to 5" dia WILL crack if left in the log form as it dries. So you can either cut them length wise through the centre pith, or try rough turning, sealing and drying before completion. One other thing is not to dry the timber too quickly, slow and easy is the way, and you should get some usable blanks.
 
Just to add to what Tam said - the type of wood affects it's drying ability enormously as well; I've got plum that's been sawn through the pith,end sealed,and still insists on splitting :lol: (be lucky if I get 50% useable timber out of it) - on the other extreme,I have some sweet chestnut that has just been cut into slices and end-sealed,and have yet to see a single split in any of it.

Andrew (who generally uses Chestnuts EndSeal - mainly because I don't have much left-over paint.. :wink: )
 
so this means I need to cut them all sown the middle, I thought I would be able to turn some vases out the smaller logs( 8-10 ins diameter)
most of the logs are about 18 - 20 ins.which I must cut down the middle as they are too heavy to lift onto a rack.
to cut the smaller ones I thought about buying a SIP bandsaw with a cut of 9 ins, would this be big enouh??
so I need to ly the log down an push this through the bans saw or should it fit htrough standing up?/
or should I cut the logs down the centre with the chainsaw, which soes not leave a clean cut for the faceplate

sorry for all these questions but I am new to the green wood and thought this would get me plenty of practice turning. :D :D :?:
 
morris, whichever bandsaw you buy the next log you want to cut will be 10mm bigger ](*,) so just buy the one with the biggest depth of cut you can afford.

As far as chain saw use is concerned the surface finish you get won't be of significance in the overall scheme of things, not easy to chainsaw a log lengthways anyway so I would be tempted to split them with an axe or wedges.
 
If you are thinking of cutting logs length ways I would advie you make up a V block and cut along the length. Trying to cut down from top to bottom will take forever and really blunt your saw.

Also a lot safer.

Pete
 
Hi Morris
I would agree with most of the others but I find even one batch of a particular wood will behave differently from another I have had sweet chestnut split and the next time another lot stay's perfect the same with lime and others will say green oak is not worth the bother but I have a 7" x 9" box with a lid that fits! that I cut and turned wet so if its free or at least very cheap try it even the failures are good practise.
Happy turning
Ken
 
hmmmm.......Chainsaws and ripping, well - I'm using my Husqvarna 317 electric for the first time - 14" blade and 1700watts and it rips beautifully!

My Startrite 352 bandsaw however, which admittedly doesn't perform well at the best of times wouldn't have touched them, even if I could have got them under the guides.

This is on up to 16" dia fresh cut Beech x 18" long.

Chris.
 
Hi again Morris. You can make 8" to 10" vases from some of your logs, but you will have to do it now whilst the wood is still wet.

Turn the walls very thin about 2 - 3mm, and make sure the base or foot is as thin as possible. If you leave any thick areas at all they will probably crack in the drying.If you can do this it will still move while drying, but you can get some very attractive shapes once fully dried.

Once dried sand with very fine paper and use an oil finish.

Good luck!
 
morris":3e87rz33 said:
Hello
can some one tell me which paint I need to seal the endgrain of
freshly cut logs??

Have you tried Chestnut Products End Seal?

An excellent product for sealing the end grain to stop moisture getting in.

For more info try contacting Terry from Chestnut products on this forum.
 
I have took today of work and cut and sealed all the wood, The rack in the garage and in the garden is full
as I am only a beginner I have turned a bowl as well, in my dinner hour
I would love to do a vase , got even a hollowing tool, have no idea how to start with this
 
Hello there
I have started to turn some green wood yesterday.
two bowls, where the wood was not so green, turned out ok
but the oak bowl I tried to turn end grain is not so good
shoul I only turn facegrain???
 

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