End caps on hardwood worktop

[Solicitus]

I am in the process of refitting our kitchen - starting from scratch, which is a tall order for me, but I am taking my time, and hopefully will get there before my wife expects me to cook Christmas dinner,

The current issue relates to endcaps next to the range style cooker. I am installing 40mm beech worktops, and the supplier recommends fitting endcaps, which I was going to rip out of off cuts. Am I going to have problems with wood movement if I simply biscuit and glue them on ?

Any advice from the many skilled members out there would be welcomed.

Robert

 

[Distinterior]

You say the supplier recommends end caps .....was the supplier aware that you were going to fit these worktops up to a range cooker? If so, they probably meant for you to fit metal end caps, not wooden ones.

 

[Solicitus]

The supplier recommends the fitting of wooden end caps next to range cookers, I assume to avoid the end grain drying out and splitting. I just wondered if I will run into problems in the long run if the end cap is glued on. The staves are fairly narrow.

Robert

 

[Distinterior]

The supplier recommends the fitting of wooden end caps next to range cookers, I assume to avoid the end grain drying out and splitting. I just wondered if I will run into problems in the long run if the end cap is glued on. The staves are fairly narrow.

Robert

Hi Robert,

I've not heard of fitting wooden end caps before in those circumstances. Not adjacent to a Range type cooker. I've only ever heard/seen it done with metal caps.

Who's the worktop supplier?

Tim.

 

[skipdiver]

Same here. Only done it with metal ones.

 

[Solicitus]

Worktop express. I can probably fit metal ones. Their website mentions the use of wooden end caps,

"When a worktop is to be fitted near a freestanding oven (i.e. an oven that is not housed in a cabinet, such as a range cooker) allow a minimum gap of 30mm all the way around the worktop, and fit a solid wood end cap along the worktop edge. This will protect the end grain and help to prevent splitting."


I thought they might look better than metal.

Robert

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could fix them dead at the front, and leave a bit of room for movement at the back where it wouldn't be noticed. If you have an upstand it would be under it, anyway.

 

[Racers]

I would use solid wood so you don't get any problems they the staves opening up at the end joints, a couple of lengths of beech cut in to a T shape fitted in to a slot in the end of the worktop, dowel them in place with no glue in the joint.
You could construct the T shape from two pieces of wood.

I would slot all the holes apart from the front ones so any movement is at the back.

Pete

 

[Distinterior]

Worktop express. I can probably fit metal ones. Their website mentions the use of wooden end caps,

"When a worktop is to be fitted near a freestanding oven (i.e. an oven that is not housed in a cabinet, such as a range cooker) allow a minimum gap of 30mm all the way around the worktop, and fit a solid wood end cap along the worktop edge. This will protect the end grain and help to prevent splitting."


I thought they might look better than metal.

Robert

......"a minimum gap of 30mm all the way around".....I have no idea what the hell that's supposed to mean..?
I can only imagine what I think they are trying to suggest and that is that you leave a 30mm gap either side of the Range and the edges of the worktop. Not only will it look awful but all sorts of c r a p will fall down the gaps.

I've fitted plenty of solid wood worktops in kitchens over the years, a few of which have been with Range cookers and the odd couple of Aga's. I've never left more than 5mm clearance either side, but have fitted metal caps when the worktops have been adjacent to an Aga. This is obviously due to the CONSTANT heat exposure from an Aga, but this is not present with a Range cooker. If the top of the Range has Gas burners, I would be inclined to fit the metal caps, but if it is going to have an Induction top, then leaving a 5mm gap will suffice and the ends of the adjacent wooden tops won't be affected.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I suspect they meant 30mm between the unit and the range, not the top.

 

[skipdiver]

30mm is the required gap for the wall units directly above the cooker isn't it? Unless they are recommending the worktop has a 30mm overhang past the base unit as phil.p suggests.

 

[Distinterior]

I suspect they meant 30mm between the unit and the range, not the top.

How do solid wood worktop suppliers get to dictate clearance gaps for kitchen cabinets...??? Also, the same question regarding wall unit clearance...??

I'm pretty sure they mean clearance from their wooden worktops.

I stand by what I said in my earlier post.

 

[skipdiver]

Is it not to do with a combustible free zone? I used to know all the measurements by heart when i was kitchen fitting but i've put it all out of my mind now. Most of this was to do with the wall cabinets if i remember rightly, so has no relevance to the base unit aside the cooker, though that may well have some reg too. As i say, i've forgotten it all now.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I suspect they meant 30mm between the unit and the range, not the top.

How do solid wood worktop suppliers get to dictate clearance gaps for kitchen cabinets...??? Also, the same question regarding wall unit clearance...??

I'm pretty sure they mean clearance from their wooden worktops.

I stand by what I said in my earlier post.

I merely suggested that there might be some confusion (on their part, not yours) - no one in their right mind would leave a 30mm gap between the top and the cooker, no matter what the top was made of. Thinking about it, I seem to remember 30mm being recommended as the gap between the unit and the range when I put in one in my last house - either 30mm or 25mm, anyway.

 

[Solicitus]

Thank you all for your helpful responses.

I had intended simply to ignore the suggestion that the worktop be 30 mm from the range, largely for reasons of aesthetics, but also as Tim points out all sort of stuff will inevitably find its way down the sides of the cooker. The installation guide for the range seems to suggest you don't require any gap between it and the adjoining base units

As it is a gas hob I'm now leaning towards the metal endcaps as a solution, although the aspiring woodworker in me is sorely tempted by Petes solution.

Many thanks.

Robert

 

[Beau]

Wooden end caps will help keep the worktop flat. I am presuming metal ones are just a slight heat reflector but wouldn't add much support to the top. Done some breadboard ends on maple worktops and worked well and looked good.

 

[Distinterior]

Don't get me wrong, as a woodworker I agree that the Breadboard ends would be asthetically far more pleasing but the practicalities of the metal caps make far more sense in these circumstances.

 

[Beau]

I am not clear what advantages there are to metal end caps. If it's heat metal is a fantastic conductor so will just conduct straight through to the wood. Cant see why a gas range is going to get so hot anyway unless it's an AGA type range in which case I get the concern. It's standard practice to box in ovens in wooden cabinets and a range is just an oven with a hob on top. The only advantage to metal I can see is if it's reflective to stop radiant heat.

 

[Distinterior]

I am not clear what advantages there are to metal end caps. If it's heat metal is a fantastic conductor so will just conduct straight through to the wood. Cant see why a gas range is going to get so hot anyway unless it's an AGA type range in which case I get the concern. It's standard practice to box in ovens in wooden cabinets and a range is just an oven with a hob on top. The only advantage to metal I can see is if it's reflective to stop radiant heat.

I take your point Beau as it does make sense, but I do think the idea is for the metal caps to reflect the heat as you say.
It's always been done this way....well, for the last 30 years anyway.

Modern Ovens /Range's are now built in such a way that the outside casings don't get excessively hot, so their close proximity to kitchen cabinets is not normally an issue in this regard. Obviously , Aga's are constantly hot, and require a different approach.
The issue arises, and is far more of a problem, when the Hob top has Gas burners. When the burners are lit and a pan is placed on, the flame licks sideways on the pan and this heat is directed out towards the edges of the adjacent worktops.
Induction tops don't work the same way as all the heat is contained within the pan.

Another example of this is with the Hi Gloss Acrylic splash backs that are available now for kitchens as an option to Glass. These can be fitted on the wall behind an Induction Hob or Induction Range but not behind a Gas model.

 

[Beau]

When the burners are lit and a pan is placed on, the flame licks sideways on the pan and this heat is directed out towards the edges of the adjacent worktops.

That makes sense