Elektra Beckum HC260M Help Needed

[Nigel]

Hi Mike
Yes I did buy it new and the machine did come with the 13a plug fitted and was the moulded on type that you would have to cut off to fit another type of plug,
On reading the manual again there is no mention of the 13a plug but like yours states a 16a supply fuse,
The motor is rated at 2200w and has capacitor start with built in time delay so it should run on a 13a plug and to be fair it always has it was only when connected with the trend vac that the fuse in the vac supply plug blew,
hope you get yours sorted soon,

Cheers Nigel

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Mike
Yes I did buy it new and the machine did come with the 13a plug fitted and was the moulded on type that you would have to cut off to fit another type of plug,
On reading the manual again there is no mention of the 13a plug but like yours states a 16a supply fuse,
The motor is rated at 2200w and has capacitor start with built in time delay so it should run on a 13a plug and to be fair it always has it was only when connected with the trend vac that the fuse in the vac supply plug blew,
hope you get yours sorted soon,

Cheers Nigel

Hi Nigel,

Thanks for your reply. Putting a moulded 13 amp plug on and then telling you to run it on 16 amp just does not make sense ](*,) #-o

How hot does your motor get?

Cheers

Mike

 

[Nigel]

Hi Mike
I have never felt the temp. of the motor in use however my manual states there is a thermal overload on the motor and if tripped to wait approx 10 minutes then restart,

Cheers Nigel

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Mike
I have never felt the temp. of the motor in use however my manual states there is a thermal overload on the motor and if tripped to wait approx 10 minutes then restart,

Cheers Nigel

In that case as Bob said the temp seems normal. Thanks Nigel.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Mike.C]

Chas wrote:

If you can take the belt off the motor does it run cool or does it still heat up?

I ran it both with the belt on and off but not under load, and both times after about 20 minutes it was warm, no where near as hot as it is gets when I run timber through it, just as warm as I would expect any machine to get when under load.
You said that there could be something wrong with the windings if it heats up. Would you say that this amount of heat when not in use is normal, or could there be something wrong with the windings?

Cheers

Mike

 

[CHJ]

If you had a winding short Mike it would heat up significantly under no load, not just warm, just like a saucepan on an induction cooker hob.

I guess you just have the results of modern materiels allowing modern manufacturers to get away with cutting design and production costs to a minimum.

When I used to wind/rewind transformers and motors it was frowned upon if they got more than a little warm in use, nowadays it seems quite the norm to operate them at 50-60+ C, as Bob says, far too hot to touch.

 

[9fingers]

Motors are not 100% efficient and so will always heat up even if doing to tangible work.

I have looked up class F insulation here http://cipco.apogee.net/mnd/mfnrins.asp

and see that Class F is specified with a wire temperature of 155 degrees C to give a 20000 hour motor life.

You have nothing whatsoever to worry about with your motor temperatures.

Relax and make some shavings!

Bob

 

[9fingers]

If you had a winding short Mike it would heat up significantly under no load, not just warm, just like a saucepan on an induction cooker hob.

I guess you just have the results of modern materiels allowing modern manufacturers to get away with cutting design and production costs to a minimum.

When I used to wind/rewind transformers and motors it was frowned upon if they got more than a little warm in use, nowadays it seems quite the norm to operate them at 50-60+ C, as Bob says, far too hot to touch.

I used to design my transformers around a current density of 1000-1200 amps per sq inch. Some that I have taken apart recently are approaching 2000 amps per sq inch.
Modern insulation enamels are so much more temperature tolerant.

Bob

 

[Harbo]

Come into this a bit late, but I have a Metabo 260K which came with and runs fine on the moulded 13A plug?


Rod

 

[CHJ]

....I used to design my transformers around a current density of 1000-1200 amps per sq inch. Some that I have taken apart recently are approaching 2000 amps per sq inch.
Modern insulation enamels are so much more temperature tolerant.

Bob

Still goes against the grain though Bob I'd rather have electrical/mechanical efficiency than heat.
Make the unit smaller pack it in tighter, then what, fit a fan to keep it cool, crazy.

Ahh the good old days of 7 turns per volt for a basic 1sq" transformer core.

 

[Mike.C]

If you had a winding short Mike it would heat up significantly under no load, not just warm, just like a saucepan on an induction cooker hob.

I guess you just have the results of modern materiels allowing modern manufacturers to get away with cutting design and production costs to a minimum.

When I used to wind/rewind transformers and motors it was frowned upon if they got more than a little warm in use, nowadays it seems quite the norm to operate them at 50-60+ C, as Bob says, far too hot to touch.

Bob wrote;

You have nothing whatsoever to worry about with your motor temperatures.

Relax and make some shavings!

No offence Bob but I had already taken your word from your posts the other day (with you knowledge of motors I would be a fool not to). But I just remembered that I had not tried what Chas recommended, and so I gave it ago.

Rod wrote;

Come into this a bit late, but I have a Metabo 260K which came with and runs fine on the moulded 13A plug?

Hi Rod, yes that appears to be the case with many of us. Metabo/Elektra Beckum are putting 13 amp plugs on but the manual states that the machine should be run on 16 amps :roll:

Cheers

Mike

 

[9fingers]

No offence Bob but I had already taken your word from your posts the other day (with you knowledge of motors I would be a fool not to). But I just remembered that I had not tried what Chas recommended, and so I gave it ago.


Mike

None taken and hopefully none perceived at your end

Bob

 

[Mike.C]

No offence Bob but I had already taken your word from your posts the other day (with you knowledge of motors I would be a fool not to). But I just remembered that I had not tried what Chas recommended, and so I gave it ago.


Mike

None taken and hopefully none perceived at your end

Bob

None at all Bob, none at all.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Mike.C]

Just as an update, and to help others who may have the same worry in the future.

I have run 32 lengths of 15' long by 5 1/2" wide by 1" thick spruce through the thicknesser and it has got no hotter then I mentioned earlier.

I have also fitted the 16amp plug that Bob suggested, and connected this to a 2.5mm extention cable. I already have one seperate 16amp circuit run for my table saw, and as my new bandsaw and now P/T need 16amp I think that I will have to get another one or two run :roll:

My thanks to Bob, Chas and everyone else who answered. I was ready to buy another motor, so you guys certainly saved me big bucks.

Cheers

Mike

 

[9fingers]

Well Done Mike.

All sorted and hopefully confidence restored.

As a general rule it is very rare indeed to have to replace a motor unless it has let the smoke out!
Most likely faults are non-starters combined with loud buzzing which usually is sorted with a few quid capacitor.
Bearings seldom go but are standard parts even for old motors and again a few quid on new bearings and you are running again.

Glad to hear the shavings are flying again.

Bob