edge planing

[engineer one]

when starting out hand planing, one of the biggest problems is getting edges square.

mucking around today making some drawers from construction grade pine,
i put them through my mafell ad160,but was a little unhappy with the edges. so i tried with my LN N06, but still got some problems with getting things at right angles.

so checking around my stock i noticed i had one of the original Veritas Edge trimming block planes in bronze.

makes a really nice job of pieces up to about 1inch wide, and allows you to make sure the edge is square to your face. helps build confidence. and you can get some really thin shavings :lol:

LV now do an improved version in ci both left and right handed.

for those starting out with hand planing, this might be the way to go at the beginning.

paul :wink:

 

[lurker]

Is this advice or a gloat :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[mr]

Your edge and face may be square but is your edge convex due to use of such a short plane ?
Nothing beats a no 7
Cheers Mike

 

[bugbear]

Your edge and face may be square but is your edge convex due to use of such a short plane ?
Nothing beats a no 7
Cheers Mike

Yah reckon' ?

BugBear (with apologies to Philly)

 

[mr]

And what did the Romans ever do for us!
Oh alright then
Cheers Mike

 

[engineer one]

mike i agree that it is not the whole answer, but as i said when you are starting out (again in my case :? ) it does offer some advantages, not least it could present a square edge that you could then use the no 7 on :lol:

bugbear that's not a plane that's a GLOAT plane. very nice sir.

anway just a thought, the veritas is about 7 inches long and the front is about 3.5 inches in front of the skewed blade so there is a little support on both ends.

the other point is that you can use this plane to cut end grain, and certainly on the pine i am using it is pretty good. highlights my bad hand sawing to size :? must learn to keep the saw upright and in line :lol:

it just seemed to me that it was another answer. although at about 84 quid, maybe an expensive one :roll:

of course i could always make a shooting board, but the drawers need doing before i finish my coffee table :?

paul :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

Your edge and face may be square but is your edge convex due to use of such a short plane ?
Nothing beats a no 7
Cheers Mike

Yah reckon' ?

BugBear (with apologies to Philly)

If that's the KH one (or similar) that was on the front cover of F&C a while back it's about £6k or so ............that's £6000 :shock: - Rob

 

[Scrit]

Paul, a small suggestion if I may. If you're having trouble with edges try clamping two or three drawer sides together and planing as one. The extra width will mean that your #6 has less of a tendency to tip

Scrit

 

[engineer one]

scrit sound as usual.

however. as has been said elsewhere you can still create problems
otherwise why would the "experts" suggest using it for edge jointing.

as with all things if you practice enough it becomes easy. i was looking for another solution,and since i had the tool :? (moi a collector :roll: )

actually having tried it all, i will go back to other advice from you scrit, in terms of ripping off the original face edge.

thanks again for the input though :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Paul Kierstead]

for those starting out with hand planing, this might be the way to go at the beginning.

I dunno. I find it a relatively miserable tool. It is hard to keep it flat to the face of the board if the board is wide or extra hard; the effort of planing tends to override the effort of keeping it flush. The handle is too low and I tend to knock my knuckles. If the piece is narrow, you'll bang the body into the vise. Or your fingers. The angle is so low that any grain reversals can be totally horrific, or choosing the wrong direction in the first place. The wood pretty much has to be in a vise (or clamped), otherwise you can't press sideways (I joint lots just against a stop). The original LV one had a dreadful adjuster and questionable steel in the blade (mine tends to roll the edge, maybe it is just mine).

OTOH, I use mine just 2 days ago when I had some thin stock that was a PITA to get just right; there it made up for its limitations, but I probably could have jointed it by lying it on a spacer on the bench as well (an impromptu shooting board for edges). Still, I was somewhat baffled with they came out with version 2 .. a few things solved, but mostly still the same problems inherent in the design. My bronze one does have a totally lovely patina though; it is quite nice to look at 5 years or so on.

 

[Anonymous]

when starting out hand planing, one of the biggest problems is getting edges square.
snip
so checking around my stock i noticed i had one of the original Veritas Edge trimming block planes in bronze.
makes a really nice job of pieces up to about 1inch wide, and allows you to make sure the edge is square to your face. helps build confidence. and you can get some really thin shavings :lol:
snip

Scuse my ignorance but surely a Veritas Edge trimming block plane is entirely the wrong tool, although it could be made to do the job I suppose.
Isn't it for trimming e.g. laminates, veneers etc, not for squaring up and much too short for straightening?

cheers
Jacob
PS for edge jointing/squaring by hand I'd use my 5 1/2 jack, or a no 7 for very long boards.

 

[engineer one]

well i'm not prepared to surrender yet :roll:

as i started this thread let me explain what my thoughts are.

if you have not done a planing course, or recently been taught, you can only practice. as i have found flattening the face is relatively easy :?
although it does take time and effort.
but because of the thickness, edge planing is more difficult. and if you are only starting out again, then you probably have not yet built the shooting board, and anyway many of those are quite short. so you have to consider other ways.

the veritas tool is actually sold for the purpose described, but i agree it may well be too short. my idea was it gives you a better and easier way of getting the edge square to the face. the concavity is of course the next problem. i agree with the other paul that the original is a difficult tool to use, but if you are not as experienced as he, then maybe not so difficult.

so this is my new plan

i have ripped one edge, and made them all the same sizes, now i will try scrits idea of putting two pieces beside each other and use my no 6.

however i really liked the finish after using the veritas skew plane :?
maybe i need to reset the no 6 :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

To a learner I'd seriously recommend sticking to one plane only preferably a jack, until you have really got the hang of it and can make it work for you, faces, edges, end grain, everything (within reason) and keep it sharp and in trim.
A different plane isn't necessarily a solution but is more likely just to be a different problem IYSWIM.

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

very sage advice jacob, but i believe that unless you have been shown how to make one work properly,and i know that you disagree with many people over that, theni t can be difficult deciding what to use.

i agree that overall, a 5 1/2 is probably the best alround device in the initial stages beinglong enough for much work, and able to be used as a smoother.

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

one other point though

when planing the edge you actually have two problems if the board is upright.

one is making square and correct to the face,
whilst two is making sure you don't plane a parallelogram from front to back. not sure which is more of a problem

but then of course you can always practice more.

paul :wink:

 

[pam niedermayer]

You may want to consider using a wooden jointer/jack since their height has a beneficial effect on one's ability to make good edges.

Pam

 

[engineer one]

knew i needed another excuse to refurbish my old dutch planes :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

very sage advice jacob, but i believe that unless you have been shown how to make one work properly,and i know that you disagree with many people over that, theni t can be difficult deciding what to use.
i agree that overall, a 5 1/2 is probably the best alround device in the initial stages beinglong enough for much work, and able to be used as a smoother.
paul :wink:

No it's dead simple - if you don't know which one to use , use a jack.
If you get handy with a jack you hardly need any of the others - they're gilding the lily, adding value yes, but marginal.

cheers
Jacob

 

[Anonymous]

knew i needed another excuse to refurbish my old dutch planes :lol:

paul :wink:

So your mrs is a woodworker? I'd get her to do the planing whilst you do the difficult bits :lol:

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

and i thought you were from derby shire :lol:

actually it is just that i bought many years ago a couple of really lOOOOONG woodies from amsterdam

paul :wink: