Drawer carcass thickness

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spearson92

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Hi all,

Apologies if this is in the wrong section. I'm making some drawers to go in my workshop under the workbench and just after some advice.

The proposed drawers are to be 850mm wide by 600mm, and 120/190mm deep (2 of each), made out of 15/18mm ply. I've bought heavy duty runners (rated to 100kgs) for the deeper drawers, as I'm not sure yet what will go in them. As for the carcass where the runners will attach to the workbench, it's only 12mm MDF.

Question is, is the MDF thickness suitable? I'm feeling that it's not much the screw into and if the drawers are heavy it'll end up pulling the runner off the carcass? Do I need some extra bracing on the external sides of the carcass for extra space to screw into, or will it be ok?

Cheers!
 
I made drawers about that size with 12mm ply and they were fine. I would just use ply for everything. Drawer runners usually have multiple holes for screws so just put a good few in and it should be fine, this is where mdf becomes less suitable as little screws will spin so easily in it.
This is why kitchen stuff often uses the 5mm "Euro" style screws to increase the grip in mdf and chipboard. I guess you could use those.

Ollie
 
Thanks guys. Didn't really think about it at the time - prior preparation and all that 😂

I was wondering if I could put some noggins in, on the other side of the MDF carcass (there's room for it and will be hidden) which I can then screw the runner into through the MDF, but maybe it's best just to swap it out for some thicker ply instead.
 
As Ollie said,....Just use 5mm Euro screws to fix the runners in place and put plenty in.....It will be fine!

These are what I use from Hafele....

16776785907663243068894406533246.jpg
16776786945113731285841200083183.jpg
 
A driver with a clutch so you can avoid over tightening them and spinning them in the mdf
 
Sorry, I meant the best drill bit to get a clean, tight hole.

I use a 5mm TC tipped Festool drill bit that has it's own adjustable non-marring depth stop.....It came in a Festool Installers set along with a load of other specialised bits.

As Myfordman stated, you can just use a lip & spur Brad point drill bit as they do cut a clean hole.
 
I use a 5mm TC tipped Festool drill bit that has it's own adjustable non-marring depth stop.....It came in a Festool Installers set along with a load of other specialised bits.

As Myfordman stated, you can just use a lip & spur Brad point drill bit as they do cut a clean hole.
Same — I’d misunderstood the question!
 

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