Draw-bar recommendations, anyone use one?

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philb88

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Hi,

Wondering if anyone uses a draw-bar for a Jacob's chuck or for a collet chuck and if they found any improvement in keep the chuck seated and inline.

Also anyone have any details on where to find one or is it a DIY job? Have seen one at Peter Child's website but that's it!

Cheers
 
Hi

I've never come across a situation, in woodturning, where the morse taper has been inadequate to retain the work. Just make sure they are clean and in good condition, (don't oil them or they will most likely stick fast).
Draw bars are generally used in metal machining when the machining forces act in a direction as to separate the tapers.

Note: not all woodturning lathes have hollow spindles.

Regards Mick
 
Tapers for use in drilling ( jacobs ) or buffing can come off,

for a draw bar just make your own , whatever will fit in the back of the taper being inserted cheap threader bar, or get bar and thread yourself.

bnq etc have very cheap bar/threaded bar.
 
B&Q are great for metric coarse threaded rod which is ok for more modern arbors but sometimes older drawbar threads are BSW (Whitworth) threads.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Drill-Chuck-Arbors

The other thing to bear in mind that there are two tapers on a drill chuck arbor and only the main MT one is retained by the draw-bar. The other can still come off at least in theory.

HTH
Jon
 
loz":3swhak6i said:
Tapers for use in drilling ( jacobs ) or buffing can come off,

for a draw bar just make your own , whatever will fit in the back of the taper being inserted cheap threader bar, or get bar and thread yourself.

bnq etc have very cheap bar/threaded bar.


Buffing was what I mainly need it for, as if you have the lathe running a bowl mop and running for a considerable time, it will eventually move! Also can't use the tailstock as support if it for one of the dome shaped buffing mops.

Is it simple a job of drilling a taping the back of the arbor, a threaded rod to suit and aconicla shaped nut the other end, or a nut and flat washer at least?

Cheers
 
philb88":22amhy26 said:
loz":22amhy26 said:
Tapers for use in drilling ( jacobs ) or buffing can come off,

for a draw bar just make your own , whatever will fit in the back of the taper being inserted cheap threader bar, or get bar and thread yourself.

bnq etc have very cheap bar/threaded bar.


Buffing was what I mainly need it for, as if you have the lathe running a bowl mop and running for a considerable time, it will eventually move! Also can't use the tailstock as support if it for one of the dome shaped buffing mops.

Is it simple a job of drilling a taping the back of the arbor, a threaded rod to suit and aconicla shaped nut the other end, or a nut and flat washer at least?

Cheers

What you suggest should be fine.
 
Hello,

I have never ever tried it, but drilling and tapping a hardened Morse-taper arbor might present some real difficulty.
A Morse-taper is a selflocking wedge, this kind of attachment is sensitive to vibration and repetitive shocks, and can come loose easily.

Have a nice day,

János
 
Shouldn't be a problem to drill and tap. I bought a pigtail arbor at our Seminar in Killarney here in Ireland last year. It had a 60 degree hole drilled in one end to allow support from the revolving live centre. The problem was I didn't have the room to work on bowls with the tailstock so close to it. A mate bored the end of the arbor and threaded it. I picked up one of these for the end :wink: :wink: http://www.componentforce.co.uk/categor ... eel-female
 

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