dovetail saw

[sparkymarky]

hi all, i`ve made the decision to put my dovetail jig to one side, i`ve started trying to cut all the tails + pins by hand, only problem being is i have no dovetail saw. which one do i go for?? i've been looking at some on the internet, tyzack and speak & jackson mainly (as are in my price bracket around £30, 2nd hand). they both have brass strecher bars across the top witch i belive is best?? would anyone prefer one to the other or is there another alternative? + does size make a difference 8" / 10" ect, and could i use a tenon saw instead or would i need a saw for each application.
many thanks mark.

 

[SVB]

I can recommend the veritas saws - a bit more expensive at £50 now I see (I am sure I paid around £40 less than 12 mths ago!), but very nice saws and they also do one with finer teeth for narrower stock.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-veritas-fine-tooth-dovetail-saw-prod806715/

http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-veritas-dovetail-saw-prod794089/

 

[pedder]

I can recommend the veritas saws - a bit more expensive at £50 now I see (I am sure I paid around £40 less than 12 mths ago!), but very nice saws and they also do one with finer teeth for narrower stock.

I second the advise on the Veritas. The cheapest might be feine werkzeuge Dieter Schmid at 52,50€ inkl. UPS to UK = 43,50 GBP on your doorstep.

Cheers Pedder[/quote][/quote]

 

[lurker]

third ed

 

[Alf]

Fourthed.

But in case that doesn't appeal for any reason, to answer the questions: The brass back is generally a tad heavier and a supposed indication of quality. In reality a steel back is absolutely fine. Size wise, 10-11" is a useful size for everything from thin drawer sides to carcass stuff. 8" is a bit on the short side on thicker stock for the latter, but it's doable. A small tenon saw will do the job, but if you're looking to buy a saw for the express purpose of dovetailing, it makes sense to get the tool made specifically for the job. Mind you, someone will be along in a moment to say you can cut them with a hacksaw, I expect. And you can too, if you fancy steepening the learning curve. Talking of which, unless you want to learn saw sharpening too, if you go s/h bear in mind you'll almost certainly have to send it off to a saw doctor as well, so factor that into your budget.

P.S. Pedder's link but to the English version of the site here - in case your German's as non-existant as mine.

 

[sparkymarky]

thanks for the replys everyone, thinking that i might try and strech my budget a bit and go for the veritas. was using a genral purpose handsaw for the job this afternoon, will be carrying the scars on my fingers for a few days.
mark.

 

[matthewwh]

Here's another relatively low cost option:

We tried one of these against a Veritas at Peter Sefton's workshop last week. The Veritas was more troublesome to start than the Gyokucho but a little faster once it got going. Thinner kerf with the Japanese saw (we could just fit a piercing saw blade down it) and both cut nice and straight. The Gyokucho blades last for ages, the last 1/2mm of the tooth is up to RC70 something but the rest is left tough. When the time eventually comes you just pop another blade in - a little bit dearer than sending a saw off for sharpening but you know what you are getting and it should be a much rarer ocurrance.

Filing and setting western saws is quite an addictive hobby in itself once you get into it, I had a little go with a Bad Axe tenon saw a couple of weeks ago and man was it smooth. I'm going to have to try out Mark Harrell's technique next time I sharpen to see if I can replicate it.

 

[selly]

and cheaper again..

http://www.woodworkscraftsupplies.co.uk ... 1d5791c0b5

 

[anthonyevans]

Selly, have you purchased that saw? Any good so far if you have?

 

[Modernist]

Veritas is £39...... at Tilgear currently

 

[selly]

Selly, have you purchased that saw? Any good so far if you have?

No but they have given good reviews but christopher swarchz in the states

 

[jonbikebod]

Along with the advice previously given, I would also caution that practically any hand saw made in England in the latter half of the twentieth century will almost certainly, originally have had it’s teeth filed as a ‘cross cut’ saw. A dovetail saw works best with a fine toothed rip profile. I originally bought a L-N dovetail saw because it was the first saw to offer this tooth form. Since then, there have been loads. A couple of years ago, at the original hand tool event at Farnham college, Mike and his team set up a bench with all their stocked dovetail saws, along with some wood to practice on and a clipboard for comments. Rob Cosman’s saw was just out and was for me easily the best – but very expensive. The Veritas saw was a quarter of the price but was a very close second. As a result I bought a Veritas dovetail saw then and there and have to report it’s the dovetail saw I reach for. The L-N is much prettier (brass back and curly maple handle) but the Veritas works best for me.
I’m not in any way discounting the Japanese pull saws; I’m just old fashioned enough to prefer a push saw with a pistol grip. For decades they didn’t exist but now we are spoilt for choice.
Jon.