Rich":217okc9b said:
the more the chance of carbon build up between the ignition electrodes, most people would'nt realise what that means and it is VERY easy to rectify with the aid of an half inch paint brush stroked between the electrode ends, an oil engineer would probably charge you in the region of about £80.00 for rectifying that, (outrageous) for 5 mins work,
Heh heh, depends on the Combustion Engineer concerned :wink:
Most of us do it for nothing and tell the gaffer " It was workin' fine by the time I got there "
Oil burners are a 'caker' to set up though....
Roger, if your at all concerned, whip your burner out ( make sure the power is isolated of course, take the draught-tube off the front and wipe down the electrodes to clean them up a bit ...
( take care not to wipe over the front of the nozzle though, as its easy to case miniscule damage to the tiny orifice which creates the correct atomised spray pattern & angle for that particular combustion box ),
...pull out the photocell, and make sure the sighting glass on it is clean,
.... give the flame-retarder ring around the nozzle a wee clean-up, and ensure the sighting-hole that the photocell 'see' through, if there is one, is unobstructed
... and have a wee look into the firebox itself to make sure there's no soot deposits or carbon build-up .. if you can 'go in' from the top and remove & check the baffleplates etc, even better.
( soot is a fabulous insulator and cuts the efficiency down in the 'heat exchage process tremendously )
If you want to change the nozzle itself, fair enough.. your could get one from your local 'Controls Center' or similar, make sure to get the right USGPM and Spray Angle ( its stamped on the spanner-flats on the nozzle itself ) and they just screw in.. no washers or anything, but be careful of the little sintered filter on the back of them.. the new one will have one already fitted but careful & not damage it....
If you
do change it out.. the flame-retarder and electrodes will need to come off, make sure you re-fit in the same position, as that is how you alter / set up part of the 'combustion' -- i.e. comissioning it to run correctly ....
And if your happy doing so.. take the burner controlbox cover off, and check all connections in the wiring base are tight,
Then take the motor off, exposing the fan, and clean the fanblades out.. the 'curvature' of the blading on a centrifugal fan has a tendency to accumulate dust and 'flatten out' the curve of the blades, which makes the fan effectively 'stall' and not deliver nearly the correct amount of air, which will lead to a poor 'burn', and subsequent sooting. ( this problem is universally worsened when there are dogs in the house. )
Pump pressure on Kero will be about 135psi ( about 145 - 150 on Gas Oil 35 sec )
Shell Smoke number 0-1
Co2 reading - 9%
Flue Gas Temp - will vary accoring to your fluing arrangement.
(any readings & set-up should be done with the machine having 'run' a good 20 minutes... it'll take that long to get proper heat into the flue etc, and she'll nae run right until she's hot ! -- not that its noticeable to a 'general householder', but its got to be up to temperature before its running at its best... thats the flue & combustion chamber, NOT the water side of things i mean. )
May sound a bit 'frightening, but honestly - its a breeze.
As a final check after re-assembling everything... fire the burner, and pull the photocell out and cover it in your hand, ensuring the machine runs to 'lockout'.... this tests that the photocell/controlbox are functioning correctly.
Casing wiped down with a wee drop of Flash & Bob's your uncle. :wink: 8)