Do I need to prep these wood?

[twodoctors]

So following on from Pete Maddex's recommendation, I actually drove to Loughborough to pay Rowan Woodland Products a visit. They do indeed have some nice stuff there. If only I had a bigger car and not have any passengers with me, I might have bought a plank or two myself.

I ended up with these turning blocks... but I have no lathe! I was hoping to make bandsaw boxes out of them. Unfortunately I forgot to check what I'm supposed to do with the wax. I know they are to prevent moisture leaving/entering the block, so I guess they are dry enough already. Reading up on these (afterwards!) the wax are lathe-d off when one start turning them. So is there a way of taking them off apart from brute force, or shall I just chop them off?

Paid £16 for the two spalted beech blocks and two (ash?) smaller blocks. Not sure how much they go for normally, but haven't seen spalted beech in my travels yet so got over-excited and allowed the heart to overrule the head.

Adrian

 

[CHJ]

The wax is on the End Grain in an attempt to slow down moisture loss to a similar rate to the side grain areas to limit end grain splitting from too rapid a loss rate after they have been cut from larger billets.

How were the blanks marketed, dry and turning ready? any indication on how long they have been stored in cut and sealed state?

Yes, when turning the waxed ends are usually discarded as part of the turning holding section or sizing of the blanks, almost impossible to remove it from the wood pores.

Impossible to advise on the safety of using them as Bandsaw box stock without knowing approximate moisture level as if they are not 'turning ready' (10-12 % moisture say) throughout, you may encounter splitting on end grain faces. exposed.

Wax coating is no indication of dry enough to use, can be totally opposite in fact as it is done ASAP on green wood and also when cutting smaller section from thick stock as it is pretty certain that the moisture levels are going to be considerably higher in the middle of the billet than the outer regions unless it has been carefully kiln dried.

 

[swb58]

You will find that as the colour of the spalted wood changes so does its density. The top face of the block on the right looks to be very soft, this can have an impact when finishing as the softer wood will tend to wear away rather than come to a nice sanded surface. There again, an undulating surface might be more interesting.

 

[Racers]

First thing first did you try the cake!

To check the moisture content weigh each piece and wright on it the weight and date, leave them in the house and check a week later, then a week after that, if it hasn't lost much or very little you are good to go.

The wax won't have penetrated in very far so it should be east to slice off or remove as part of of your design.

Super glue or sanding sealer will firm up the soft bits of the spalted beach.

Pete

 

[twodoctors]

Thanks all.

I've proceeded to cut them up into sizes my bandsaw can handle (80mm max) using my table saw (as I was cutting some other stuff at the time. Here they are (the spalted beech):

The soft bit swb58 referred to looks like just normal beech I think, and the darker bit is the spalted part. Or is it the other way round? Or is the lighter bit sapwood? Not have much experience with beech (or woodworking for that matter!) so not sure.

The bottom pay the white bit may well be spalted part, as it does look a little different compared with the rest.

In any case I shall bring them into the study and leave it for a bit and see. I'll weigh them with the kitchen scale (while the wife is not looking)...

...and no didn't try the walnut cake as we were on a tight schedule. Had a cup of tea though!

Adrian

 

[RogerP]

Adrian,

Have a look at this web page ...
http://www.thewoodplace.com/wood-types/spalted-beech/

 

[twodoctors]

Thanks Roger.

In that case I've been lucky so far. With the top one it's not very spalted. The pale bit is normal beech. The bottom I've only got two small pockets of pure white rot.

Will bear that in mind when I start working them.

How does one normally finish spalted beech? I normally (reads only) shellac. I've got Osmo oil.

Adrian