Do I need a Band-saw and a Table-saw?

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If you have room for both then fine. I had both but being short of space I sold my table saw and upgraded my bandsaw which is working out well. The bandsaw rips well and for crosscutting I cut by hand.

John
 
murrmac":34u68amf said:
Brandlin":34u68amf said:
*american youtubers would have you believe you can pass material perpendicular to the blade ... but frankly that makes me shudder. dont do it.
Could you clarify what it is that makes you shudder ... I am having trouble visualising exactly what you mean. TIA.
Americans have a real culture of removing the blade guard and the riving knife... resulting in stoopid cack like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D_vnevx4vI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUZ8hRm7a8g
 
No way would I remove the riving knife, but removing the guard for slotting is OK. For example the Bosch table saw I have has an easily adjustable riving knife as part of the design to raise/lower it depending on whether the guard is to be fitted, or whether the knife has to be no higher than the blade for slotting. Of all my tools, however the table saw is the one that I like using least.
 
murrmac":2o18wtqr said:
Brandlin":2o18wtqr said:
*american youtubers would have you believe you can pass material perpendicular to the blade ... but frankly that makes me shudder. dont do it.

Could you clarify what it is that makes you shudder ... I am having trouble visualising exactly what you mean. TIA.

stuff like this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe5ZeSX-_g0
 
tbh, I don't see anything too shudder-inducing about cutting coves on a tablesaw using an angled fence, like Mattias Wandel is doing in that video ... it was standard practice in the States to cut crown moldings like that when I worked there.

What did take me aback on my very first day in an American shop was that I was expected to be able to cut down workpieces to length using the fence .... the tablesaw had been modified to have a gap of up to six feet between the blade and the fence, so if the workpiece was wider than the shop chopsaw could handle (about 12") , it was cut on the tablesaw (no sliding table btw ... you had to use the fence). Having previously been used to a Wadkin sliding table, this was quite a culture shock.

I did find this scary at first, but amazingly I soon got used to it ... it was essential to have the table and the fence well waxed, with a minimum of friction, and if that was achieved, and if the fence was set perfectly, it was amazing how soon you developed a "feel" for it.

That was twenty years ago, and I doubt that anybody works like that nowadays, but back then it was common practice in all the shops I worked in , whether in New England or Florida.
 
For guitar building, take a look at the Crimson Guitars Youtube channel, specifically the review on Saburr Tooth sanding discs. They make exquisite curves and flares on guitar bodies. You will want one. (It's top of my shopping list).
 
Pord":280p3fuu said:
For guitar building, take a look at the Crimson Guitars Youtube channel, specifically the review on Saburr Tooth sanding discs. They make exquisite curves and flares on guitar bodies. You will want one. (It's top of my shopping list).

I used to love that channel, I've learned a lot watching that, Ben's an extremely likeable chap but he just talks too much! I find it quite frustrating waiting for him to get to the point of the vid.

I might go and have a look at those sanding discs though.
 
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