DIY Secondary Glazing

[WoodMangler]

Has anyone got any recommendations or "steer clear of..."s for DIY Secondary Glazing suppliers ? I have three old fairly small 2-light upstairs windows in wooden frames to de-draught and insulate. I have in mind a 2-track system with slideable and removable panes, which will have to be toughened if glass as the windows are very close to the floor. Appearance is not a priority - don't want anything too nice showing up the rest of the house

 

[deema]

If you have wooden frames, it would be a very simple job to deepen the rebates and install double glazed panels. I have found this to be the cheaper option than secondary glazing, looks great, and does the job properly. If you don't fancy the job yourself, I would have thought that any joiner would be up to the challenge.

 

[AndyT]

I've just been putting some secondary glazing in front of a couple of stained glass windows.

Following advice on here I've used 2mm plastic sheet and magnetic glazing tape.

I've been impressed by how clear the plastic is and relieved that I'm not attempting to do the job with glass.

A lot will depend on the style of windows you have and how much you want to fiddle about making something to blend in with your house.

 

[Jonzjob]

I put a pair of secondary glazing sheets of toughened glass on a pair of French doors when I lived near Stroud. I held them in place with glazing sprigs and used a good quality silicon rubber to hold them. Once dry, removed the sprigs and they were still there years later when we moved.

Just make sure you get the galss CLEAN with something like acitone and make sure it's completely dry or you will get misting. If you do need to remove the glass for any reason then just use a stanley knife on the silicone and it comes off really easily.

 

[deema]

Taken a while, and my camera skills are rather limited. However, here is one of a number if oak framed windows I made to take stained glass windows that have been triple glazed.

 

[rafezetter]

The plastic sheet that AndyT is referrring to was 2mm thick acrylic, which should be easy enough to get hold of local to you, but if not give me a PM and I'll see what I can work out for you, we use a good courier too that's reasonably cheap - about £15 to pretty much anywhere. We can get the sheets cut to your sizes too.

Not selling... but just in case..

 

[WoodMangler]

That's odd - I could have sworn I'd replied to this thread, but I can't see it now. Anyway, thank you all for your input, but 'her indoors' has found some aluminium track slider windows on Amazon she rather likes, so I guess we'll be doing it that way

 

[MMUK]

That's odd - I could have sworn I'd replied to this thread, but I can't see it now. Anyway, thank you all for your input, but 'her indoors' has found some aluminium track slider windows on Amazon she rather likes, so I guess we'll be doing it that way

To get the best from those you want to fit them on the outer edge of the reveal (ie; as far inside the room as possible and creating a large "air gap")

 

[blackrodd]

Secondary glazing can be a better and less disruptive way to go, and you can lock it from inside on some systems,
I have fitted this on an extension, to match an existing system. I hope it goes well.
Regards Rodders

 

[WoodMangler]

It's an old welsh longhouse with rough old window frames and cob walls about 2 feet thick - I'll have to fit them wherever it looks like they might stay

 

[blackrodd]

I presume that the inside window reveals are splayed, as were mine.
i just made sub frames from some old oak,3"X 1 1/2" bevelled on the hand planer, to fit, once made and this gave me a square and parallel frame to work from also it looked good going from old timber to aluminium and glass.
Fitting the frame, or anything on a cob wall, I find easiest by drilling a hole, for the fixing about 6"deep using a 1/2" or 3/4" masonry bit. clean out the hole.
Whittle a piece of decent softwood tapered from the thinnest end at just under the drilled hole size to 3/8" bigger at the top and 1" longer. Drive this in carefully, not damaging the end, as far in as possible.
You may have to adjust the sizes and depth of taper as the cob does vary in density.
done properly, the peg is gripped by the stones etc in the cob and is as good as a plastic fixing would be in masonry. This is good for fixing grounds, radiators, skirting etc
I cut the pegs off plumb which can save some work. HTH Regards Rodders

 

[WoodMangler]

I presume that the inside window reveals are splayed, as were mine.
i just made sub frames from some old oak,3"X 1 1/2" bevelled on the hand planer, to fit, once made and this gave me a square and parallel frame to work from also it looked good going from old timber to aluminium and glass.

The existing frames are old and rough, but quite solid. I was thinking of making sub-frames like yours, to attach onto the inside faces of the existing windows, sealing the gap between with a bathroom sealant or mastic. This will save me trying to fasten to the cob, which doesn't like attachments in this house (see below).

Fitting the frame, or anything on a cob wall, I find easiest by drilling a hole, for the fixing about 6"deep using a 1/2" or 3/4" masonry bit. clean out the hole.
Whittle a piece of decent softwood tapered from the thinnest end at just under the drilled hole size to 3/8" bigger at the top and 1" longer. Drive this in carefully, not damaging the end, as far in as possible.

The previous owner of this house used that method to attach the radiators - all of which are now hanging off the walls, only held in place by the pipework...