Did you pocket hole project wobble then fall apart?

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So my question is this, If you built something using this system how well has the end product held up over time? Has it fallen apart? Or is it solid as a rock still

Seem to be a few folk saying they are rubbish without actually telling us what they made and what failed or stood strong.

When using conventional journey I sometimes wonder if in fact we do over engineer structure joints.
A bit like when cars suddenly changed to lightweight structures, sub frames etc.
I remember my Dad had an original Austin Cambridge. Like a tank to drive.
Then changed it to a Ford Escort mk1....
" Never catch on, not solid enough, things will be dropping off" he would grumble.
If he could only see the metal body sections replaced with plastic on todays offerings.

In general any thing I've made in wood for anyone they never question how it's made. They like to know what type of wood it is and that's about it.
 
I don't have jig, but on the odd occasion I'd needed to use a pocket hole, and access allows, I've drilled into the wood in the opposite direction that I would screw, ie I've put a pilot hole in from the end of the wood, which allows me a better control of where the screw will come out, then I just roll in a countersink from the normal direction (start at 90 degrees then roll the drill over until I'm lined up with the screw hole) and put the screw in.

If I was offered a decent jig I'm sure I'd use it on occasion, I think there is a place for them.
 
We have just made an CNC router enclosure for my son from 25mm thick mrmdf, using, for the first time pocket hole screws and dowels, the base was 4'X4' and at around 30" high so it was quite heavy. I was reasonably impressed with my new Wolfcraft pocket hole jig and dowel jig that I was given for a Christmas present (by my son) :)
One big advantage in this case was that I made it in my garage but he could disassemble to transport it to his garage for re assembly, so I think they are great for certain jobs.
 
Built all my workshop cabinets inc drawers with a pocket hole jig and glue, still all standing admittedly only been a couple of years.
 
pocket holes at least the kreg system seems pretty sophisticated( coarse or fine screws for instance) they can become misaligned but I reckon there pretty good strength wise. some don't seem to bite as well as others.
 
They are simply not strong enough to be used in any joint that will be stressed. I like to think that anything I make will be around in 100 years and not held together by a pair of rusty screws ! The only exception I can see is making banks of shelving or faceframes and I am struggling to find anything cheaper or faster. :giggle:

100 years, I call it a result if the stuff I make lasts 100 days :(
 
Seem to be a few folk saying they are rubbish without actually telling us what they made and what failed or stood strong.

When using conventional journey I sometimes wonder if in fact we do over engineer structure joints.
A bit like when cars suddenly changed to lightweight structures, sub frames etc.
I remember my Dad had an original Austin Cambridge. Like a tank to drive.
Then changed it to a Ford Escort mk1....
" Never catch on, not solid enough, things will be dropping off" he would grumble.
If he could only see the metal body sections replaced with plastic on todays offerings.

In general any thing I've made in wood for anyone they never question how it's made. They like to know what type of wood it is and that's about it.

If you watch an old film the car crashes are interesting, the cars stop dead and stay relatively intact, look closely at the people inside, they go flying.

The same regulations that have brought about far larger and lighter cars with plastic mouldings as bumpers and flexible bonnets instead of chromed steel bolted to a chassis are also responsible for your child probably surviving that 30mph hit with a concussion instead of probably being zipped up in a bag, they also pollute drastically less, so even if you have nothing to do with cars, they’re better for you.

Back to pocket screws... they’re the right solution for the right problem. A bit like duct tape, you’d not want to see it on a surgeons tray but for ducting, it really is just the ticket

Aidan
 
Anyway the one word of caution is to beware using a powered driver to drive the screws home because you can burst the pocket, which is a bit harder to do when screwing straight through. Especially on ply or chipboard. I've busted many a project doing just that. Set the clutch down to just enough to tighten the screw.
Since I’ve just been putting together a project that used a few pocket hole screws in a couple of the joints and used an impact driver on them and on all the projects I’ve used them on I’ve never had a screw pull through, your experience suggests to me that your technique of
I've never seen the point of buying a jig, all my pocket screws are done by eye using the 'start at 90 and then redrill at whatever' technique.
is somewhat lacking.

I have had the screw thread strip the wood it’s going into because the wood was too soft and the screw had to be short to get a good hold, but never a pull through.

A jig combined with a stepped drill and the correct screws has a significant benefit, take out the correct depth (that’s what the drill stop’s for) correct format hole (that’s the stepped drill) and correct flat under headed screw (why I use Kreg) and you have the reasons why you don’t have the holding power in the pockets that I and others have.

But if your method is good enough for your projects and you don’t need the holding power then it is the right one for you.
 
Another positive comment for pocket holes - using a Trend jig. I do usually use glue as well - especially on the rare occasion I stoop as low as using MDF (but that's really just for lack of confidence in the structural integrity of stuff made with MDF . . . I can hear @petermillards hackles rising!! )
 
If you watch an old film the car crashes are interesting, the cars stop dead and stay relatively intact, look closely at the people inside, they go flying.

The same regulations that have brought about far larger and lighter cars with plastic mouldings as bumpers and flexible bonnets instead of chromed steel bolted to a chassis are also responsible for your child probably surviving that 30mph hit with a concussion instead of probably being zipped up in a bag, they also pollute drastically less, so even if you have nothing to do with cars, they’re better for you.

Very well put. I would much rather walk away from a crash and have the car written off than spend my life in a wheelchair eating through a straw and saying "well at least the car only needed a new bumper and a bit of paint".
 
Regarding glue, you might find this interesting.

Myself I do use glue when possible but as I have said I am mostly doing repairs so quite often the pocket screw is being used as a clamp as well as a fixing.

 
I think pocket screw are great in the right situation (generally out of sight) The strength of the joint will depend somewhat on the type and thickness of the material you are joining (I think) e.g. joining 18mm ply will be stronger than 12mm MDF.
1. Because material stronger
2. The screws are longer
3. Or am I talking rubbish?
I've got Kreg jig but bought copy screws and they work just fine
 
My 6ft garden gate is held together with glue and screws in pocket holes made with a pocket hole drill bit rather than a jig. gets some traffic, bangs shut in the wind etc. Rails rest on or in stiles by cut outs not morticed , I suppose the feather boards nailed on also help keep it together. Neighbours gate installed after mine, shop bought and pretty, has broken 5 times in 5 years and full of patched up batons
 
Modifications to kitchen carcass, pocket hole is perfect.
3m tall wardrobes in mdf or similar, pocket hile is perfect, even better with a few biscuits (dont own a domino)
Builiding a bed frame, nope not the right tool for the job.
 
I’ve used Kreg pocket hole screws to make a number of drawers for my work shed using ply, MDF, chipboard and wood and varying from 75mm to 250mm high and 600mm deep with roller ball hinges. Absolutely magic and no problems despite some being heavily loaded. On some I have glued some of the joins.
 
Since I’ve just been putting together a project that used a few pocket hole screws in a couple of the joints and used an impact driver on them and on all the projects I’ve used them on I’ve never had a screw pull through, your experience suggests to me that your technique of

But if your method is good enough for your projects and you don’t need the holding power then it is the right one for you.

I applaud your excellent technique and trigger control.
 
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