Dealing with twist in framing layout

E-wan · 19 Sep 2018

Hi

I'm soon planning to start cutting half lap joints in 6 x 6 beams approximately 9 ft long. Some of them have a little twist in the which I will need to account for.

I'd appreciate any pointers or resources to help me consider how to keep my joints vertical and flush with each other.

Was planning on using a spirit level at The Twisted End to establish a vertical reference plane. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks

Ewan

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MikeG. · 20 Sep 2018

Firstly, what sort of timber, in what sort of circumstance?

Secondly, half-laps aren't a standard framing joint. They were used occasionally for joining sole plates at corners, but bridle joints were preferred to reduce the amount of twisting. It is my thesis that the driver of all green oak framing joint design was twisting, not shrinkage.

If this is green oak work you are talking about, with the timber to be exposed (ie visible) after completion, then you just work with the timber as it is. You make all the joints individually, allowing for the twist. That generally means chisel and mallet, rather than mortiser.

Steve Maskery · 20 Sep 2018

Whatever you are trying to make, a pair of winding sticks will be useful.
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thomashenry · 20 Sep 2018

Winding sticks 8)

MikeG. · 20 Sep 2018

I've done an almighty amount of green oak framing over the years, and have never used winding sticks. All they are going to tell you is that your wood is twisted. That doesn't help, because you can't remove the twist. You have to understand that traditional framing has no reference faces or edges. Now, I know that doesn't compute for those who just make furniture, or do joinery with seasoned timber. Further, whilst the joints are cut on saw horses with the plates the correct way up or upside down in relation to their finished position, the joints are actually assembled not vertically, but horizontally. The allowance for twist is done 90 degrees from the final orientation, and done with a bevel gauge.